However a question here... what is a new "Torrington". Some type of bearing I assume but how would I know if what I have is new or whether it is a Torrington? For sure it sounds like something I should change...
Actually we still say Torrington, but in Oct of 2002, Timkin bought the Torrington Co. from Ingersoll-Rand. Details!!
The inner support bearing for the inside end of the camshaft is a needle bearing. HD in its infinite wisdom (and cost savings methods) uses some cheap bearing from INA that are NOT robust enough. If that inner bearing goes, it will scatter bits of bearing grade steel throughout the oil system potentially doing ALL kinds of mischief. So I would suggest that at the first opportunity, the INA bearing be exchanged for a "Torrington" bearing. See pix below (Torrington left, INA right).
I am not sure it is worth all the time and effort JUST to change out the inner camshaft bearing, but it should be part of any project where the cam chest is gonna be disassembled anyway. George's Garage, JIMS, even HD (probably the JIMS) make a puller and installer for the bearing. The puller is a definite need. But the installer may be a work around it necessary. But note - the EVO bearings are a different size then the '99-'06 TC which are different from the '07-Present TC. So get the puller (and installer if you want it) for the EVO!
TQ
I am breaking my own rule here with a follow-on post, but I will merge them later tonight.
Nathan,
Look at the pdf attachment below. You want to check continuity between the VOES and the Ignition Module. That is the V/W colored wire (don't remember if that is violet w/white trace, or violet trace on white wire!! but whatever) from the connector you plugged your spliced connector into to the Ignition Module connector pin #6. Also check continuity on the Black wire side of the VOES connector to ground.
While you are doing this, you might as well check the continuity of the Sensor Plate sending unit to the Ignition Wire. Pins A, B and C at the Sensor Plate go to Ignition Module pins 3, 5 and 2 respectively. You can see the wire color codes on the schematic.
If all the wiring checks out, I suggest slappin' the beast together. You can try going through the static timing procedure described in the book on pages 8-9 to 8-10. If that works, great. If not, try going to Dynamic by starting it up, warming it up for a few minutes so it will run without the enricher, and then following the procedure on pages 8-10 to 8-11.
Lettuce know.
TQ