Timing is way out... no seeming adjustment
- Thread starter oowf
- Start date
12 children? :small3d031:
oowf
Member
We have Sixty... in this location... another thirty at our second orphanage and we are in the process of opening our third right now and it will become active by October. We have already brought in fifteen there.... have identified over 700.... isn't that amazing!
The twelve are ones that have grown up in our Gongyi orphanage (where we live) and are now college age.
The twelve are ones that have grown up in our Gongyi orphanage (where we live) and are now college age.
oowf
Member
Good morning everyone...
Yesterday I got the ol lady running good again... but I need your input on what happened.
As I stated earlier, I never could find the timing marks... so after taking the carb apart and checking the jetting as recommended (I do have #46 and #185 jets) I got back into the timing. Still could not find the marks...
So I had my maintenance man help me and as he watched through the site glass I removed both sensor plate studs so I could rotate the sensor plate beyond the adjustment notches for the two studs. I held pressure against the plate with one screwdriver while advancing the plate beyond the normal allowable adjustment and after about 1 1/2 marks beyond the limit we could see and center the timing mark.
I cut the adjustment grooves on the plate (where the studs go through) longer to allow this adjustment and the bike is running the best since I have had it...
However, knowing I am advanced more than what the equipment would normally allow I wanted to run this by you and see if you have ever heard of this before. Keeping in mind this ride was purchased used so one really doesn't know what went on before and keeping in mind I can see the timing mark now... do you see a problem with what I did?
I am going to send for a new sensor plate and change it out once it gets here.
Anyone have any comments or suggestions in this regard?
Cheers!
Yesterday I got the ol lady running good again... but I need your input on what happened.
As I stated earlier, I never could find the timing marks... so after taking the carb apart and checking the jetting as recommended (I do have #46 and #185 jets) I got back into the timing. Still could not find the marks...
So I had my maintenance man help me and as he watched through the site glass I removed both sensor plate studs so I could rotate the sensor plate beyond the adjustment notches for the two studs. I held pressure against the plate with one screwdriver while advancing the plate beyond the normal allowable adjustment and after about 1 1/2 marks beyond the limit we could see and center the timing mark.
I cut the adjustment grooves on the plate (where the studs go through) longer to allow this adjustment and the bike is running the best since I have had it...
However, knowing I am advanced more than what the equipment would normally allow I wanted to run this by you and see if you have ever heard of this before. Keeping in mind this ride was purchased used so one really doesn't know what went on before and keeping in mind I can see the timing mark now... do you see a problem with what I did?
I am going to send for a new sensor plate and change it out once it gets here.
Anyone have any comments or suggestions in this regard?
Cheers!
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Keep in mind that the idle speed will effect the timing marks showing up in the hole. If the speed is too high the marks will move to another position so first set the idle speed to specs and see if you can locate the marks then.
As far as being too advanced and IF you have the wrong plate in there for some reason, when you hit the start button, if there is too much advanced timing, you'll know it. The engine will stall on cranking and kick back, don't try it again but instead retard the timing before the ring gear gets chewed up.
No kick back/starter stall or pinging, you must be close to the right timing.
As far as being too advanced and IF you have the wrong plate in there for some reason, when you hit the start button, if there is too much advanced timing, you'll know it. The engine will stall on cranking and kick back, don't try it again but instead retard the timing before the ring gear gets chewed up.
No kick back/starter stall or pinging, you must be close to the right timing.
oowf
Member
Glider and TQ....
The bike starts with almost no hesitation. What I mean is I push in on the starter and almost instantly she is running. It doesn't even seem to turn over more than once. So far not once has it kicked back.
As far as any work on the cam shaft bearings... None by me but again, it was used when purchased.
The only tensioning thing I have worked with is the main drive chain and that was only to adjust it to 3/4 inch.
Also, the idle speed during our check for timing was at 1,100 RPM. The book called for between 1,000 and 1,500.
Based on your information it seems it was done right but of course the fact that I had to "cheat" the plate to get it to this point does leave me with this nagging concern in the pit of my brain! <smile>
Thanks so much for you help in all of this.
Cheers!
The bike starts with almost no hesitation. What I mean is I push in on the starter and almost instantly she is running. It doesn't even seem to turn over more than once. So far not once has it kicked back.
As far as any work on the cam shaft bearings... None by me but again, it was used when purchased.
The only tensioning thing I have worked with is the main drive chain and that was only to adjust it to 3/4 inch.
Also, the idle speed during our check for timing was at 1,100 RPM. The book called for between 1,000 and 1,500.
Based on your information it seems it was done right but of course the fact that I had to "cheat" the plate to get it to this point does leave me with this nagging concern in the pit of my brain! <smile>
Thanks so much for you help in all of this.
Cheers!