Timing is way out... no seeming adjustment

[glider]

Not ignorant at all.

qbert1963 said it best with using your finger. This eliminates the other instructions. If you get the "pssssst" (sound of compression) as the piston reaches TDC, then you know you are on the right stroke and then see if the timing marks line up. They should unless something is really wrong. Quick way of verifying things without checking the pushrods.

 

[TQuentin1]

This is a new concept for me. Please remember I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as you all are...

It sounds to me that there are two possibilities when going for TDC and the timing mark. Does this last statement mean that I can be at TDC with the vertical timing mark centered in the window and the three gear marks lined up and still be on the wrong stroke?

I apologize for my ignorance.

No. Until the camshaft is installed in the cam chest, there is no compression or exhaust stroke. The pistons just go up and down in the cylinders and the valves remaining closed. Setting the pinion gear mark at 12 o'clock AND THEN installing the camshaft so the timing mark on its gear lines up the the timing mark on the pinion shaft gear establishes the valve (and ignition) timing for the engine (once the pushrods are there - obviously!!). The breather timing is also established by installing it so that timing mark aligns with the other timing mark on the camshaft gear.

I think what Glider was suggesting is that when you are trying to do the static timing, that you are sure you are on TDC of the compression stroke for the front cylinder and not the rear. Remember that the connecting rods are on the same crankpin, so the pistons BOTH go up or down at the same time. Therefore, it takes two revolutions to bring a particular piston back to TDC of the compression stroke (or the exhaust stroke if that is the beginning point). By trying to rotate the pushrod for the front valves when the piston is at TDC, you can tell if you are on the compression stroke (pushrods turn freely) or the exhaust stroke (pushrod in a bind).

TQ

 

[oowf]

Continuing this tread... It's a warm day today and I want to ride...

My parts came in yesterday... carburetor rebuild stuff and my new "HDE – 3 Single/Dual Fire Ignition"

Installed it according to instructions and I immediately got static timing with their onboard light and to get it the plate is set at about mid point as it should be.

However, --- Like I said, I want to ride today ---- The final thing I need to do is connect the wiring to the coil.

From the HDE-3 Ignition plate I am supposed to connect the red wire to the wire post on the coil where the ignition switch wire connects. I am supposed to connect the black wire to what I assume is ground and the green wire to the VOES switch wire. The white wire is not used on Dual Fire systems.

OK... so far... however, off of my coil I have a pink wire and a white with black wire. In looking at my wiring diagram the pink wire does not go to the ignition switch but rather to the electronic module. The white with black wire also does not go to the ignition switch but rather goes to the electronic module and to the emergency stop switch.

I am lost. I don't want to guess cause if I'm wrong I run the chance of killing a $250.00 investment.

Anyone shed the light on which post to use off the coil. I have looked for "+" and ' - ' on the coil. None to be found.

Jeesh... I wanted to ride today!

Cheers!

 

[oowf]

Ok... this is a done deal... I wanted to ride today and ride I did!

I knew everyone was sleeping over there while I was working on this thing so didn't expect an answer too soon so started Googling...

Finally found several Goggle results that said the Pink wire off the coil is a signal wire and the white with black is the +12 volt power.

I connected the black wire from the HDE – 3 Single/Dual Fire Ignition to the post on the coil with the pink wire and the red wire from the HDE – 3 Single/Dual Fire Ignition to the post with the white black and connected the green wire from the HDE – 3 Single/Dual Fire Ignition to the VOES switch. I taped off the white wire from the HDE - 3 and it all worked and I had a couple of really nice hours of riding! Love this Fall weather.

One question. If anyone is familiar with the HDE – 3 Single/Dual Fire Ignition, I am set up with Dual Fire (according to the HD terminology) and I have my HDE-3 set on 8 and the VOES at 50% and 1.

I do experience a little hard starting and at times it kicks like it is too far advanced. However as I said in my last post the timing is dead on but due to the hard starting I think there are some adjustments necessary so would like some advice on that if anyone is familiar and has experienced it.. The literature leaves a little bit to be desired.

Thanks for everyone's help in getting me through all of this. I have a better machine now and I am a happy camper!

Cheers!

 

[ultrat]

Good to here from you glad bike goirng ridding//// sorry no knolage of your ign. sys. it was 30 deg out am but rode to work :bigsmiley24:

 

[karmutzen]

Just timed my 90 FLHS and had the usual problems trying to see the marks on the flywheel. I've got a clear plastic plug from my old Sportster days, so I followed Glider's advice and screwed it all the way in until it was real close to the flywheel. Also put the bike on a lift instead of leaning over on the side stand to try keep more oil away from the viewing area. Got the cam side ready per the Nightrider instructions and then fired the bike up. Couldn't really see any marks well and fiddling with the plate back and forth wasn't getting me any closer. My Eureka moment came when I realized that years ago I'd bought a fancy-pants timing light that had adjustable advance angles. I just pointed it at the flywheel hole and bumped the advance on the gun up until I saw the vertical line (TDC), then read what the advance was on the LCD display on the gun (32). Moved the timing plate on the cam cone until the LCD display said 35 with the TDC bar showing. Tightened everything up and then reset the light to 0 advance and this time could see the advance dot (which is much harder to see than the vertical bar).

My thanks to the forum for all the advice.