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Engine Dies And Runs In Spurts

Re: Diagnostic Code P0261

Heat and vibration play a part in the equation but the cause (if this is what it is) was because the harness was strapped too tightly in a rubber mounted engine that moves.

Ockham's Razor - among competing conditions, the condition with the fewest assumptions should be selected. In other words, the simplest explanation is usually the correct one.

1. The fuel tank is full and it doesn't bubble. The condition (misfiring) begins within a short period. It starts out very sporadic.
2. The misfiring suddenly starts to become worse after driving a number of miles.
3. The hose leaking via pin holes creating low fuel pressure was essentially eliminated when I topped off the tank both times prior to when the excessive misfiring began.
4. I witnessed the engine check light come on briefly pulling into the garage while it when it was misfiring excessively.
5. The diagnostic code indicated Front Injector Open/Low EFI. Upon clearing the code and re-starting the engine, the code didn't return.
6. Going back and looking at the injector wiring again, upon closer inspection of the Front Injector wiring, I noticed that the little white grommet that holds a red wire in the front injector was pulled out to the 2nd collar.

wrenchin, is it possible that your loose wire theory could start out with occasional misfiring and over time the engine vibration could set up a harmonic reaction whereby the wire is jiggling beneath the white grommet within the injector head causing the misfiring to get worse?
 
There is no advantage of using the 109 other than if you have too much cash in your pocket and want to eliminate it. That's a LOT of 109 to put into the tank, I wouldn't use it at all, just go for the next higher octane pump gas if you are having pinging problems.

Okay, I thought it would help with varnish but I will defer to your experience and knowledge in the matter. :D
 
If you have a pin hole and loosing fuel pressure from it, a full tank isn't going to make much of a difference.



The usual problem with this injector wire is right near the plug itself and the copper is separated inside the insulation making it hard to diagnose. As the heat of the engine transfers on warmup, things can change position and cause an intermittent miss. Have you eliminated the ignition as a source of the miss yet?

I must've missed the section on eliminating the ignition as the problem. I did a search on "testing ignition for misfire" but the links that came up didn't reference any testing procedures.

What do I need to do?
 
It's the injector wire. I picked up a pair of the long handle needle nose pliers with a 45 degree tip bend. Started the bike and when I started to roll the harness side to side it stumbled and quit. The second time I rolled it slightly and it stumbled but kept running. Did it twice to be sure
 
Talked to parts dept. at dealer and the guy told me how to repair the wire. Said to find similar size wire, coat it with dielectric grease, splice it in with heat shrink...
 
Ahhh, the parts guy told me that the bike harness was a single unit after I asked him if I could just get a connector. He said he spliced his....

That may be true on the dealers end but I have seen these connectors before and I am pretty sure they are the same as some G M cars, any way if you can repair it Kudos to you for saving some money Good Luck and check back in some pictures would be great of your repair
 
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