Sputtering and stalling(Fuel Injection)
Erratic running, surging and a hissing or bubbling in the tank noticed after the pump cycles.
There's been some issues with engines in the fuel injected models sputtering and dying at half a tank of gas for no apparent reason. One cause for this is a fuel line inside the tank that is rubbing on the inside of the tank and wearing a hole in the line. When the tank gets to about 1/2 full, the motor will sputter and stall. This could be the problem but the fuel level isn't a necessary part of the equation here. The engine needs fuel pressure in the area of 50 LBS to operate right and if the line is causing the fuel pressure to bleed off, you will have sporadic running and stalling as a result.
You can try adding gas to the tank and it will usually run better again indicating this problem but a fuel pressure test is the positive diagnostic procedure for this situation.
The fuel pump will have a different sound to it like a hissing or whistling when pressuring up at start up if this problem exists and you may see fuel spraying around inside the tank when the pump is pressurized.
If you remove the fuel pump fuse to diagnose this condition, the engine should start, then stall with the fuel pressure that is in the line normally. With this pin hole in the hose , the engine will not start after removing the fuse because the fuel pressure has bled off. It's another way of verifying this problem.
You can also hear the problem by opening the gas cap and turning on the key.You'll hear the fuel squirting from the line in a hissing sound when the pump is priming. You will also notice more than average priming before starting.
If you are replacing the convoluted tubing with something other than the replacement from HD, the fuel line is 5/16 ID in case anyone is interested.
"Chopper" posted this for removing the pump from the tank that may be helpful...
The trick is pressing down on the fuel pump, it's like a spring loaded latch, once you get that released it will come right out, the first time is the hardest.
Raise canopy slightly to access top fitting (inlet port) at back of fuel pressure regulator. Using a side cutters, cut hose clamp and remove convoluted tube. Exercise caution
to avoid cutting or damaging tube or dropping pieces of cut clamp into fuel tank
A spring-loaded hinge on the fuel pump bracket facilitates removal of the assembly. For best results, press down on top of fuel pump with end of screwdriver, and after raising canopy slightly, rotate on hinge in a counterclockwise direction. When canopy is at a 45° angle to top of fuel tank, carefully pull assembly from left side lobe of fuel tank.
Remove and discard canopy gasket. Verify that sealing devices from screws are not lodged in canopy holes. Remove and discard devices if present
The manual mentions how to remove the assembly, but it's not very clear, If you reach inside and actually push downward on the pump itself, it will then swivel downward which allows it to be removed fairly easily. It makes sense once you have it removed.
The pump, pickup, and fuel sender assembly all can pivot 90-degrees. With it at 90-degrees, the assembly goes in and out with relative ease.
Check the side of the corrugated fuel line for abrasions. They rub on the tank and can wear through causing poor running.
Erratic running, surging and a hissing or bubbling in the tank noticed after the pump cycles.
There's been some issues with engines in the fuel injected models sputtering and dying at half a tank of gas for no apparent reason. One cause for this is a fuel line inside the tank that is rubbing on the inside of the tank and wearing a hole in the line. When the tank gets to about 1/2 full, the motor will sputter and stall. This could be the problem but the fuel level isn't a necessary part of the equation here. The engine needs fuel pressure in the area of 50 LBS to operate right and if the line is causing the fuel pressure to bleed off, you will have sporadic running and stalling as a result.
You can try adding gas to the tank and it will usually run better again indicating this problem but a fuel pressure test is the positive diagnostic procedure for this situation.
The fuel pump will have a different sound to it like a hissing or whistling when pressuring up at start up if this problem exists and you may see fuel spraying around inside the tank when the pump is pressurized.
If you remove the fuel pump fuse to diagnose this condition, the engine should start, then stall with the fuel pressure that is in the line normally. With this pin hole in the hose , the engine will not start after removing the fuse because the fuel pressure has bled off. It's another way of verifying this problem.
You can also hear the problem by opening the gas cap and turning on the key.You'll hear the fuel squirting from the line in a hissing sound when the pump is priming. You will also notice more than average priming before starting.
If you are replacing the convoluted tubing with something other than the replacement from HD, the fuel line is 5/16 ID in case anyone is interested.
"Chopper" posted this for removing the pump from the tank that may be helpful...
The trick is pressing down on the fuel pump, it's like a spring loaded latch, once you get that released it will come right out, the first time is the hardest.
Raise canopy slightly to access top fitting (inlet port) at back of fuel pressure regulator. Using a side cutters, cut hose clamp and remove convoluted tube. Exercise caution
to avoid cutting or damaging tube or dropping pieces of cut clamp into fuel tank
A spring-loaded hinge on the fuel pump bracket facilitates removal of the assembly. For best results, press down on top of fuel pump with end of screwdriver, and after raising canopy slightly, rotate on hinge in a counterclockwise direction. When canopy is at a 45° angle to top of fuel tank, carefully pull assembly from left side lobe of fuel tank.
Remove and discard canopy gasket. Verify that sealing devices from screws are not lodged in canopy holes. Remove and discard devices if present
The manual mentions how to remove the assembly, but it's not very clear, If you reach inside and actually push downward on the pump itself, it will then swivel downward which allows it to be removed fairly easily. It makes sense once you have it removed.
The pump, pickup, and fuel sender assembly all can pivot 90-degrees. With it at 90-degrees, the assembly goes in and out with relative ease.
Check the side of the corrugated fuel line for abrasions. They rub on the tank and can wear through causing poor running.
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