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Easy Clutch Adjustment Method

Put me down as one who is thankful for this website and especially for Mr. Data and his easy cluitch adjustment method. I used this method on my 2001 Heritage Softail today and can not believe how much better it shifts and how much easier neutral is to find. I just THOUGHT by bike rode good until today. Just wanted to testify and thank the ones responsible for keeping this site running. Keep up the good work.
 
I just used Gliders Easy Clutch Adjustment technique after installing the easy pull cutch. The clutch adjustment was very easy. The clutch pull now is cut in half and the clutch feels much better. Thanks again Mr. Data for your desire to help others.
 
OK if it’s foolproof then I must be a fool:
When I adjust as describe and then take the slack back out of the cable to 1/16th of an inch I can only pull the clutch lever in about half way – it reaches it travel.
When I adjust as per the Harley manual and/or the video it works fine.
Basically the difference seems to be the position of the clutch lever when the slack is taken out of the cable. In the Harley manual method I don’t pull the lever into the bar – I just leave it where it is and adjust the rod until I feel tension and then ½ turn back.
In the method describe here – I’m putting slack into the cable and then pulling the lever to the bar as adjusting as described – but again I end up – after taking the slack out of the cable – only being able to pull the lever in half way.
I’m curious as to why this is happening – though being a fool is not out of the question.:small3d012:

Thanks
 
It takes a few times to get the feel of doing the adjustment like this. I hope you are squeezing the clutch handle 3X to center the balls in the ramp.
 
I have a question about the easy clutch adjustment method. How can you get the clutch to engage closer to the handlebar? When I follow the instructions given everything shifts and works well but I want my clutch to engage closer to the grip. If I make the adjustment on the cable it puts too much free play in the lever. Do I need to back off the adjustment screw on the clutch pack more or less after the lever touches the grip during the adjustment or what? Any help would be appreciated.

My bad!!! I started reading some older post and found the answer I was looking for. Looks like I need to loosen the adjuster nut a little more and the clutch will engage sooner. Going to try it in the morning. I also forgot to mention that I have another bike (A 2004 Ultra) When I did this on my Softail it was perfect the first try. Sorry for the unnecessary post.
 
You are the man Mr. Data . My 2010 Ultra has never shifted smooth .I was beginning to think there was a ticking bomb just waiting to go off . After the last service (10,000 mile) it was a hair better . I had credited this to the Spectro 6 being put in for the second time ,and flushing what was remaining of the dino oil out. But it got bad enough to go back in and readjust .At 13,400 miles it finally shifts like I thought it should . Worked like a charm . Thanks
 
It's kind of a goof proof way of adjusting a clutch and the Spectro will make the biggest difference overall.

Glad it worked well for you.:D
 
The lever adjustment is only cable slack and not an actual clutch adjustment. If this method doesn't give you what you want then go with 1/2 turn out on the adjustment on the clutch pack.
 
The lever adjustment is only cable slack and not an actual clutch adjustment. If this method doesn't give you what you want then go with 1/2 turn out on the adjustment on the clutch pack.
Gottcha, before reading this thread I did not know how to adjust the clutch to get the engagement point I wanted.... so I just adjusted the cable.

Really looking forward to trying this out!!!!

Just finisheed the adjustment. I did it per the instructions. It is still letting out a little high (far away from the bar) for me. Is there anything I can do to make it engage a little closer to the bar? The adjustment went great, very easy.
 
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