timing sensor voltage

[Hoople]

I set the the static timing on the bike, and it fired right up. It idled good for a few minutes and once I hit that few minutes mark it started to spit sputter and can't pick-up engine speed when applying the throttle.

Sounds like a thermal issue with the cam sensor. Get a can of computer "dust off". Invert the can to shoot freon on the pickup & see if problem goes away. Can should say contains 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane on it.

 

[rgoot01]

Sounds like a thermal issue with the cam sensor. Get a can of computer "dust off". Invert the can to shoot freon on the pickup & see if problem goes away. Can should say contains 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane on it.

I am headed to the store right now. I will let you know what happens.

 

[rgoot01]

I got the duster and unfortunately it didn't make a difference.

 

[Hoople]

Could a bad stator or voltage regulator be the problem? The reason I ask is that when I opened up the primary to roll the engine over for the voltage drop test there was some metal on the drain plug magnet and there was fine brass in the oil also.

I doubt it but as Jack suggested, you can have a meter across the battery and see what it reads. You could also just unplug the stator from the regulator, and try running it that way. Just start it & run it for a few minutes. That would eliminate those items completely. But I doubt you will see anything worthwhile.

So your saying that if the engine is cold it starts up fine & will rev up good. But once hot that all goes away. The engine spits and will not increase in RPM.
Do you smell or see (black exhaust) raw fuel out the pipes when it starts running bad?

 

[rgoot01]

So your saying that if the engine is cold it starts up fine & will rev up good. But once hot that all goes away. The engine spits and will not increase in RPM.
Do you smell or see (black exhaust) raw fuel out the pipes when it starts running bad?

Yeah its good till warm. The only time it has spit out black smoke was on a couple of back fires once it warmed up.

 

[Hoople]

Yeah its good till warm.

So a good chilling of the cam sensor had no reaction what-so-ever. And your coil can jump a large 5/16" gap..Plus the ignition module has already been replaced. Plus you see good repeating spark when cranking with the plugs removed..That doesn't leave too much in the electrical dept. I am not experienced in the mechanical possibilities but I wonder if an intake leak is opening up after it gets warm or maybe there is an issue with the carb. I assume the Voes is hooked up and has been tested.

Since the engine won't pick up RPM once warm,, I would probably try injecting propane when it starts running bad. If it makes it worse or dies, it indicates that it is not an intake leak Take off the air cleaner, start it, wait till it runs bad, inject vapor propane (don't lite it) right down the carb. See if you can get the rpm to pick up when you twist the throttle while adding propane.

Others with more Evo experience may chime in with ideas.

 

[BUBBIE]

I like misting RAW gas from a sprayer bottle. to make it run...

Good postings above... I'll try to help....

If it does pick up in speed spraying raw gas into the venture,,, you know it is in the carb.

If there is enough fuel in the carb to get the bike warm, then Not enough to keep it running at any speed and dies no or low fuel is probably the cause.
**********
The suction (vacuum ) hose to the carb from the gas tank shut-off valve.

leave Carb on bike,,,,,, air cover and cleaner off......Take the carb bowl off and let the float drop on it's own, hanging.

By mouth, apply suction on the Vacuum line (off carb) that opens the gas tank valve and let raw fuel come out...

With the float in the totally dropped position and using a clean catch can , allow gas to run out the tank thru the float needle. This should allow most debris to clean out of the line... (float needle valve will allow MOST small Junk to go past in this position)

Taking off the float IF it didn't improve the flow.... Flow should be a good stream FLOW with what is being done above.

Looking into the can for dark matter:newsmile073: IF a lot of black pieces and the FLOW Improved and is GOOD,,,,, I have buttoned a bike back up to save labor and running was fine...

IF there is NOT a good Piddle flow

(keep the suction on the valve,,,,apply tongue and see IF the Flow is still there and NOT leaking off)... Vacuum not loosing ? continue as below.....

If Not a good flow from the tank to carb. The tank to carb line can be the problem with debris in the tank valve screen or tubes..

IF not much flow into the can Move the tank valve to Reserve and see IF that improves.. IF not you see where the fuel com'n in is the problem. (tank to carb)

You get the Idea here...

Don't forget to put the excel. pump arm back into the proper place.... and use the rubber protector...


signed....BUBBIE

 

[Jack Klarich]

#1 on Bubbies points here, I am NOW leaning away from the electrical issues and more toward the fuel side. Check the intake seals for leaks also

 

[Jack Klarich]

Seems to me up until 89 Harley still uses the ill fated compliance fittings on thee intakes, is yours one of them? These have caused erratic running problems and poor starting

 

[rgoot01]

Seems to me up until 89 Harley still uses the ill fated compliance fittings on thee intakes, is yours one of them? These have caused erratic running problems and poor starting

The attached pic is of manifold I have. I'm gonna do what Bubbie suggested here in a little bit.