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timing sensor voltage

rgoot01 said:
Yes, the same bike. The new module is 32405-91A and 32408-90 harness.

Also would like to state that I have checked the spark and it seems weak, honestly, my lawnmower has a fatter brighter spark.



The manual is Harley's manual for 1984-1998 FLH,FLT,FXR with evoulution engine.
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Hoople said:
Ok, then you have no voltage drop going to the battery side of the coil.
Has the ignition module been replaced since you started working on this problem? Or are you using the same module for the last several years.

You said you performed the spark jump test but you didn't say what the gap was. Did you remove the electrode off the plug. Was the gap a solid 5/16" gap. The plugs should still be removed from the cylinders which would have resulted in a nice fast cranking RPM during the test. Was the spark jumping with good repetition. Does it look healthy and fat?

I can't confirm what the reference voltage should be because I am using a knock off manual also. Maybe another member has a genuine year specific HD manual for an accurate spec.
10.82 could be ok, but it just doesn't sound right to me. My guess would be either 5v or battery rail voltage (12.50) but not 10.82.
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Jim, have a look here, his problem started before he changed all this out, this in itself leads me to believe a problem with the coil and or resistance in the ignition switch?
 
Hoople said:
Has the ignition module been replaced since you started working on this problem? Or are you using the same module for the last several years.

You said you performed the spark jump test but you didn't say what the gap was. Did you remove the electrode off the plug. Was the gap a solid 5/16" gap. The plugs should still be removed from the cylinders which would have resulted in a nice fast cranking RPM during the test. Was the spark jumping with good repetition. Does it look healthy and fat?

I can't confirm what the reference voltage should be because I am using a knock off manual also. Maybe another member has a genuine year specific HD manual for an accurate spec.
10.82 could be ok, but it just doesn't sound right to me. My guess would be either 5v or battery rail voltage (12.50) but not 10.82.
Click to expand...

Yes the original module was replaced and and the reason I replaced it was because the manual I have shows the 4.5-5.5 volts being correct but I was reading somewhere around 11.5 volts.

When I did the spark jump test I used two plugs one with the electrode removed and one gapped to .100. Both had a weak spark,not healthy and fat, that was sparking around the base of the center electrode and the top of threaded end. It does spark with good repetition.
 
This coil is stock? Is it mounted up front under the gas tank?
 
rgoot01 said:
The coil is stock. It was mounted under tank in factory location. It is currently mounted on the side of engine where the horn would be located.
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Your bike runs NO different now than before the module was changed?
 
Jack Klarich said:
Your bike runs NO different now than before the module was changed?
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No different.

I don't know if this helps but out of curiosity I decided to check voltage of the four wires (green,white,red,orange) coming out of the keyed switch.

I checked the battery voltage initially which read 12.14 volts with key and switch in run/on. I checked red-11.92, wht-11.68, orange-12.14. I tested the orange wire by disconnecting the connector allowing acces to the pin. When I did this I tested the red and wht and with the orange wire disconnected they both tested 12.14. Plugged orange back in and red-11.92, white-11.68.

Could this have something to do with this?
 
rgoot01 said:
Could this have something to do with this?
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Can't tell because this knock off manual I have is just black & white including schematics, so all wires are shades of gray.

If the spark could jump a 5/16" gap (no electrode), your probably ok on spark energy.

Was the trigger sensor plate moved and the ignition timing is now off? Since your setup is dual fire, when the front cylinder fires on the compression stroke, the rear cylinder has a wasted spark that fires right at the tail end of the intake stroke. So setting the timing is critcal. If set too retarded, you will be firing on the intake stroke of the rear cylinder. That would be a problem for sure.

Was the sensor plate moved since the last time the bike ran fine.

You never gave any info as to how this entire problem started. The bike was running fine, then for no reason it started running bad? You made some type of change and then it started running bad? Some history info may help..
 
Hoople said:
Can't tell because this knock off manual I have is just black & white including schematics, so all wires are shades of gray.

If the spark could jump a 5/16" gap (no electrode), your probably ok on spark energy.

Was the trigger sensor plate moved and the ignition timing is now off? Since your setup is dual fire, when the front cylinder fires on the compression stroke, the rear cylinder has a wasted spark that fires right at the tail end of the intake stroke. So setting the timing is critcal. If set too retarded, you will be firing on the intake stroke of the rear cylinder. That would be a problem for sure.

Was the sensor plate moved since the last time the bike ran fine.

You never gave any info as to how this entire problem started. The bike was running fine, then for no reason it started running bad? You made some type of change and then it started running bad? Some history info may help..
Click to expand...

If you have played with the timing start over, Catch compression on front cylinder, loosen stand off screws on timing plate, ground front spark plug wire with plug in it, rotate plate until you see spark jump, snug up stand offs this should be close static timing for it to run
 
Jack Klarich said:
If you have played with the timing start over, Catch compression on front cylinder, loosen stand off screws on timing plate, ground front spark plug wire with plug in it, rotate plate until you see spark jump, snug up stand offs this should be close static timing for it to run
Click to expand...

I set the the static timing on the bike, and it fired right up. It idled good for a few minutes and once I hit that few minutes mark it started to spit sputter and can't pick-up engine speed when applying the throttle.

Could a bad stator or voltage regulator be the problem? The reason I ask is that when I opened up the primary to roll the engine over for the voltage drop test there was some metal on the drain plug magnet and there was fine brass in the oil also.
 
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