Things I saw during my 20k maintenance

[Dan.1977P]

You are referring to the bronze bushing that the pinion shaft rides in. Unless your crank run out is really bad, that bushing should be fine. Slide the cam plate on to the pinion shaft and see if you can feel any movement at the pinion shaft. Replacing it is more complicated than just pressing the old one out and a new one. So, unless it appears worn or grooved, leave it alone.

Copy that.

I forgot to ask, anyone know of a good source for this stuff? JP doesn't have the cams and the only set of push rods on ebay are actually higher than MSRP.
I can get the 509's for 270. If I can manage to get the total for the pads, cams and rods under $400, I may have a chance of pulling this off right now instead of waiting till winter.

 

[dolt]

I forgot to ask, anyone know of a good source for this stuff? JP doesn't have the cams and the only set of push rods on ebay are actually higher than MSRP. I can get the 509's for 270. If I can manage to get the total for the pads, cams and rods under $400, I may have a chance of pulling this off right now instead of waiting till winter.

Pushrods are about $135 from a discount dealer, plus shipping if ordered online from Newcastle. Kit has everything you need, pushrods, clips, covers and O-rings. Cyco tensioners and the install tool can be purchased direct from CYCO (if they still sell retail) or on Ebay for about $35-$45.

 

[Dan.1977P]

I just installed the new propipe and it sounds mean. Way deeper than the tinny big radius. I think the comp or stock baffle sounds way better than the quiet. I'll add pics and video to get confirmation on which is which so I can label the one I'm not using appropriately.
I'm certain these will boost performance based just on the initial impression.

 

[Dan.1977P]

I think the comp baffle is the shorter one with the wire in it and the quiet one is the long with extra padding. Maybe I'm off. Hoping there won't be a big performance decrease just because I like the shorter one.

Comp Baffle

Quiet propipe

I didn't do them in the exact same environment but I think its still a pretty significant difference. The sound in the quiet video for me in person is really tinny like the big radius were before I put bigger baffles in them.

 

[dolt]

The short baffle is the competition baffle. Now you have to change your signature.

 

[Dan.1977P]

Sig changed and I pulled the trigger on a set of 509's!

 

[Dan.1977P]

Compared to everything I'm already doing, how hard is the head gasket change? I don't really want to cut the rods out so I'm opening the rocker boxes anyway. Is it worth it with stock heads and Pistons?

 

[dolt]

Compared to everything I'm already doing, how hard is the head gasket change? I don't really want to cut the rods out so I'm opening the rocker boxes anyway. Is it worth it with stock heads and Pistons?

Installing a .030" head gasket will only add about .30 points to static CR; IMHO, not worth the effort to remove the heads if that is all you intend to do. However, if you have an extra $150 or so, have your heads cleaned up, new guide seals, decked .040"-.050" for 78cc chambers, triple angle (SERDI) valve job and reinstall with the .030" head gasket. The '06 heads flow fairly well and with a little TLC, not bad performers. Decking the heads and installing the .030" head gasket will increase compression to about 9.5 which those 509 cams will like. The thinner head gasket is more about tightening up the squish band than increasing compression.

Just another tip. If you are retaining the OEM pushrods and lifters, mark them and return them to the original positions. Of course the motor will run with those parts installed randomly but factory tolerances are such that mixing them up can sometimes introduce valve train noise, i.e., one lifter being a looser fit in a different bore or a pushrod being a little shorter than another. If you want the valve train to sound like it does before you disassemble, put those parts back where the came from.:s

 

[Dan.1977P]

I have a set of the screaming eagle adjustable rods coming in with everything else. Hopefully by next weekend I will get everything installed and can run it with a canned map for a week to make sure everything is ok and then off to get it tuned by an indy around here if my shop tour with them goes well.
I'll leave the heads alone for now.

 

[dolt]

I have a set of the screaming eagle adjustable rods coming in with everything else. Hopefully by next weekend I will get everything installed and can run it with a canned map for a week to make sure everything is ok and then off to get it tuned by an indy around here if my shop tour with them goes well. I'll leave the heads alone for now.

First and foremost is the tuners familiarity with the PCIII. As you may know, the PCIII only allows for fuel adjustment and the Ignition Module is required to adjust timing. I am not saying that you need the ignition module but if timing is not set, the tune is less than optimum. The ignition map programmed from the factory in the ECM is based on a stock motor, so, as yu can see, although timing is not critical, a complete tune would include at least tweaking timing to see if there is any effect on performance. The PCIII is the very first DJ system and has been replaced by the PCV which can be purchased with the ignition module included. Now the Power Vision is the state of the art DJ fuel management systems which actually allows reprogramming of the ECM which cannot be done with the PCIII or PCV. I am not saying you cannot get a good tune with the PCIII but am saying that you can get a better tune with the Power Vision which does not have to be attached to the bike like the PCIII and PCV. Apologies if you are already aware of this. I will say that for a cam only upgrade, the PCIII is adequate but if you increase displacement, have head work done and/or install higher lift cams, you should consider upgrading to the Power Vision.

A few questions to ask your tuner to evaluate whether or not you will get a proper tune. Of course, first and foremost the tuner should be familiar and comfortable with the PCIII.

1. How long will it take to tune?
2. What gear will be used for the tunes?
3. How does he tune for partial throttle? Remember that the final sheet shows TQ and HP at WOT; partial throttle tuning is very important for mileage and rideability.