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repo nightmare

You originally stated "I've temporarily replaced cut wires". Maybe you have connected the starter/relay wires, so it turns over, but not the ignition/ecm loop, for fire. IF you have the turn signals properly connected, there's a bypass procedure for the fob, that may get the spark going. Hoople is the man for electrical, if he gets complete details.
 
Hoople, the igniton was left unlocked and will move from off to ignition and accessories

OK, I was thinking Dyna where you must have a key to get ignition.
This one can be fun because you just don't really know what the original owner did (if anything) to prevent the repro man from grabbing it.

1) Question on Entry point #1. What does 9 AND 10 volts at the ignition coil mean. The power wire to the coil is a single Yel/Green wire. When not cranking you should have battery volts at terminal A on the coil. Did you mean 9 TO 10 volts. ? Measure the voltage at terminal A of the coil with the ignition ON.

2) "Forward controls" to me are not electrical. You replaced the the forward control switches? What are forward control switches.

3) You first must determine if both spark AND fuel are not working.
Crank the engine over several times and pull the plugs to see if the injectors are firing fuel.
If they are injecting fuel, that is a big step and tells you a bunch of items are in fact working. If they are not injecting fuel, along with no spark, the ECM is most likely just inhibited.

4) Try reading speedo codes with a WOW test. There may be some logged.
 
It rolls three times, pauses, then rolls three times.

Hmmm. Sounds like a bad battery. Pull it and give is a full charge. Then take it to an autoparts place and have it load tested. If it is OK, clean both ends of both battery leads when you reinstall the battery on the bike.

TQ
 
The yel/green wire reads 10volts only when the ignition switch is on, and the start button is pressed. The speedo will not do a WOW test.
 
and the start button is pressed.

1) What is the voltage on the Yel/Green wire of the coil when the ignition switch is ON and not cranking.

2) What happens when you attempt a WOW test. Does the speedo light up like it should?
 
nothing happens when i do a wow test. the speedo does nothing. the yel/green wire reads a little over 10 volts when the ignition is on and not cranking.
 
the yel/green wire reads a little over 10 volts when the ignition is on and not cranking.

That should not be. You should have read the same voltage that is across the battery which I will assume is ~ 12.5 volts.

Verify your meter and battery by measuring the voltage across the battery with the ignition switch to ON without cranking. If you read 12.5 volts across the battery and still read ~10 volts at the yel/Green coil wire, perform the following.

1) Check the 15 amp fuse labeled ECM. Read the voltage at that fuse to frame ground. You should read 12.5 volts with the ignition ON.

2) Remove the system relay in the fuse panel (label on inside cover tells you which is which) and check the prongs for oxidation.

Power comes off the ignition switch to the ECM fuse. From there it goes to terminal #30 of the system relay. When the run switch is flipped to ON, it picks the system relay. Once picked, the system relay Xfers power to Terminal 87 of the system relay. Terminal 87 of the system relay now supplies battery power to the injectors and coil pack..

You just need to determine where the voltage drop is coming from. Look at the bottom of the system relay to locate terminals #87 & #30. It is printed in the relay base.

My guess is the injectors are not firing also. You also have some other issues because you should have been able to perform a WOW test.
 
Did you do anything (jumper wires, hot wires, etc) in order to get this bike to crank? Is it cranking through its own factory wiring and the push "start" button on the grip? Did you make any modifications to the bike or starter in order to get it to crank?

If the answer to that question is NO,

Then remove the system relay and measure the voltage between socket receptacle pins # 85 and #86 with both the Ignition ON and the RUN switch in the "run" position. If you Do read 12.5 volts across #85 & #86 (socket of system relay), the system relay is bad and needs to be replaced.

If you do Not read 12.5 volts at socket terminals #85 & #86 of the system relay, report back.

Still waiting on answer to question #2 of entry point #23 about "forward controls". The reason I asked is because the system relay is picked through the run switch and a ground shot from the TSM/TSSM.
 
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