Looking at m,y 95 build.

[dolt]

I would never do 10 heat cycles; two for about a minute each is enough to check for leaks and listen for funny noises. All those heat cycles should be saved for break in process. The break in is the friction developed between the "rough" ring face and cylinder wall ridges in the cross hatch as they mate together. A lot of short heat cycles, IMHO, interferes with that process. After a couple of quick heat cycles to confirm no leaks and motor sounds good, get on the bike and ride. Cycles of 2-4 up to 4000 rpms, decal down (engine brake), rinse and repeat as the motor heats up to operating temps. Rings should seat in the first 25 miles; heat and compression is what seals the rings.

 

[Fisherking]

I would never do 10 heat cycles; two for about a minute each is enough to check for leaks and listen for funny noises. All those heat cycles should be saved for break in process. The break in is the friction developed between the "rough" ring face and cylinder wall ridges in the cross hatch as they mate together. A lot of short heat cycles, IMHO, interferes with that process. After a couple of quick heat cycles to confirm no leaks and motor sounds good, get on the bike and ride. Cycles of 2-4 up to 4000 rpms, decal down (engine brake), rinse and repeat as the motor heats up to operating temps. Rings should seat in the first 25 miles; heat and compression is what seals the rings.

Ok cool I will do that .

F.K.

 

[Fisherking]

I would never do 10 heat cycles; two for about a minute each is enough to check for leaks and listen for funny noises. All those heat cycles should be saved for break in process. The break in is the friction developed between the "rough" ring face and cylinder wall ridges in the cross hatch as they mate together. A lot of short heat cycles, IMHO, interferes with that process. After a couple of quick heat cycles to confirm no leaks and motor sounds good, get on the bike and ride. Cycles of 2-4 up to 4000 rpms, decal down (engine brake), rinse and repeat as the motor heats up to operating temps. Rings should seat in the first 25 miles; heat and compression is what seals the rings.

Well got the bike back together . The porter didn't set the compression nearlly as high as I was told he was going to.
I measured my ccp after ring break in 183 psi rear cylinder 185 front .
I do notice seat of pants difrence . It will be nice when I can open it up .
My power vision the tune on it is for an 88 ci engine and keep maxing out on the air fuel volume. So I have sent to Fuel Moto for a new tune . On that will take in the extra comp and displacement . This way I can get the most out of my PV, before I take it to get dynoed..

F.K.

 

[Fisherking]

Well got the bike back together . The porter didn't set the compression nearlly as high as I was told he was going to.
I measured my ccp after ring break in 183 psi rear cylinder 185 front .
I do notice seat of pants difrence . It will be nice when I can open it up .
My power vision the tune on it is for an 88 ci engine and keep maxing out on the air fuel volume. So I have sent to Fuel Moto for a new tune . On that will take in the extra comp and displacement . This way I can get the most out of my PV, before I take it to get dynoed..

F.K.

This is going to sound really stupid but,When doing a compression test does the air filter need to come off? what would the diffrence be with or without it?
Thanks Fisher King

 

[dolt]

This is going to sound really stupid but,When doing a compression test does the air filter need to come off? what would the diffrence be with or without it?Thanks Fisher King

Not necessary on an EFI motor but removing the air filter will allow air flow direct to the throttle body. CV carbed motor most definitely remove the air filter; I also remove the carburetor so I don't have to hold the slide open; it will not open without vacuum. Make sure your battery is fully charged; a weak battery will not yield accurate results. Remove both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. Use a quality gauge for accurate results.

 

[Fisherking]

Not necessary on an EFI motor but removing the air filter will allow air flow direct to the throttle body. CV carbed motor most definitely remove the air filter; I also remove the carburetor so I don't have to hold the slide open; it will not open without vacuum. Make sure your battery is fully charged; a weak battery will not yield accurate results. Remove both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. Use a quality gauge for accurate results.

OK Thanks Dolt.

F.K.

 

[Fisherking]

Not necessary on an EFI motor but removing the air filter will allow air flow direct to the throttle body. CV carbed motor most definitely remove the air filter; I also remove the carburetor so I don't have to hold the slide open; it will not open without vacuum. Make sure your battery is fully charged; a weak battery will not yield accurate results. Remove both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. Use a quality gauge for accurate results.

Hey Dolt , with my power vision I have a base tune for a se 204 in an 88 ci engine. My bike is now 95 ci, when I do auto tune pro, and I get over 127.5 VE I can scale it which " Increases displacement , and reduces VE to 120." I have done this once and at about 1/2- 3/4 throtlle is bucks and seems starved for fuel. When I use the" cap it caps every thing at 127.5". with my added displacement will this lean out the engine?.

Thanks F.K.

P.S. I was thinking of doing a tune on the scaled tune . would this take care of the displacement issue, if it is an issue.

 

[dolt]

Not a tuner and above my pay grade but it sounds like your base tune is too far off from your actual motor configuration to dial in. Suggest you call the Dynojet support team and let them guide you through the auto tune process. Sorry mate, if it was a carb, I could dial you in but when it comes to EFI, I leave it to my local tuner.

 

[Fisherking]

Not a tuner and above my pay grade but it sounds like your base tune is too far off from your actual motor configuration to dial in. Suggest you call the Dynojet support team and let them guide you through the auto tune process. Sorry mate, if it was a carb, I could dial you in but when it comes to EFI, I leave it to my local tuner.

Just got off the phone with fuel moto. They sent me two new tunes . The tunes are for a 98 ci but puts my into the same ballpark anyway.
Thanks again Dolt.

F.K.

 

[dolt]

Just got off the phone with fuel moto. They sent me two new tunes . The tunes are for a 98 ci but puts my into the same ballpark anyway.
Thanks again Dolt.

F.K.

I suspect your first tune was not close enough to dial in with the auto tune feature. You should be able to dial the tune in with 5-6 auto tune runs making the adjustments indicated after each run. It is important to put the motor through all different load situations to closer dial in the tune. After the first couple of auto tune runs, you should take a fairly long ride, back roads, highway, up and down hills, etc. so the motor sees various load situations in different gears. Good luck.