Here's some info on the compensator kit for 07 and later bikes.
Here's a thread regarding this upgrade.
Compensator Upgrade Update - Harley Davidson Community
BT Compensator kit.pdf
Also refer to this post...
Starter Noise Complaints - Harley Davidson Community
This (SE) premium compensator has been engineered with heavier springs and increased travel to support the high-torque output associated with high compression race and large displacement engines. Designed to support up to 7 times the energy absorption capacity of the Original Equipment compensator, this unit helps protect the engine and drive line components during harsh drag race launches. The perfect addition to a complete performance upgrade, and complements the installation of the Screamin' Eagle® Performance Clutch Hub P/N 37976-08.
Here's a write up that "GS34" did with the installation of this compensator kit on his 2007 FLHTC.
Well, back on the 4th of Dec. I said I was going to install a big twin compensator kit after the hollidays. OK So, here it is and today was the day. I will try my best to give you a good report on the installation.
I start by saying, I purchased the kit, part # 40274-08, on line for $199.96 + $15.00 shipping.
The instructions that come with the kit are very straight forward, and if you have a service manual, torque wrench, and basic hand tools, the installation should be no problem at all.
Also. the work will be a lot easier on your back if you have the bike up on a jack, however, that is not a requirement.
Drain the oil from the primary and remove the outer primary cover.
Once you have everything opened up, just follow the directions in your service manual for removing the clutch and compensator.
Make sure you collapse the slack adjuster and hold it from expanding with a plastic tie, or piece of mechanics wire, prior to removing the 2 bolts which hold it in place.
Take care when removing the snapring in the clutch basket that it doesn't fly out and get lost.
The stock compensator, primary chain and clutch will slide right off their shafts and can be removed as 1 unit.
This will leave the rotor exposed for removal, but here is where you have a choice to make.
There is not enough clearance in the front lower corner to pull the rotor. So, you either have to remove the inner primary housing, or grind a bit of the excess material away from the inner lip, to allow the rotor to clear the housing.
I choose to grind.
After cleaning the inner housing of all oil, I protected all of the shaft and seal areas with duct tape. Then, I packed rags in around the rotor and front area so that none of the shavings or dirt created could get into areas where it could cause damage.
Once you have enough material removed, Clean everything out good, wash it down with solvent or brake clean, and blow it off with air.
The old rotor will pull off with a little pressure (because of the magnets) and the new one will slide right on the splines.
This is the new rotor installed.
These next 2 pictures show where the material had to be removed from the inner primary.
This is the new spring pac and shaft extension installed.
This is the new steeper ramp assembly in place.
Next comes the re installation of the new heavier compensator sprocket along with the primary chain and clutch.
After reinstalling the clutch, and getting everything torqued to spec, make sure that your snap ring is fully seated in its groove. You might want to tap on it with a small punch and hammer to insure this.
Don't forget to remove the tie that you had previously added to hold your tensioner in place.
That's all there is to it.
Reinstall all your covers, taking care to use the proper tightening sequence on the outer primary.
Refill with the proper amount of oil....remember, it will take more than the normal change, where you don't pull the outer cover.
Hope that covers it thoroughly enough.
If anyone decides to do this install and has any questions, feel free to PM me and I will do my best to answer them for you.
gs34 also mentioned that he made it a point to ask the service dept of 4 different dealers about this installation and if there were any pitfalls to the installation that he need to be aware of.
Of the 4 he asked, not 1 had done the installation. 2 had never even heard of it, and one of them even argued with him about its existence.
Of the 2 dealers who knew of the part, only 1 had a tech (who had recently returned from a factory school) who could even talk intelligently about it.
gs34 added ...I could add that on examining the old stock compensator, I was surprised at the amount of wear evident on the ramps and on their mating surfaces. With 14000 miles on the bike, there was more wear there than I would have expected.
Conversly, the chain tensioner shoe was in like new condition with no wear and only light scuffing evident in the surface.
NOTE:
"eleft36" also posted this input for this kit after he installed this kit.
Mr. Data this pdf has flawed information:
1)this can not be done:"Rotate the compensating sprocket to make sure there is a light pressure on the sprocket from the springs. No clearance should be felt. A slight rotation should be possible by hand with the transmission in neutral."
2) Parts A & B are included and are much different than the original the instructions relate to.
That said, the kit is the greatest improvement any one can make.
Here's an interesting thread on this compensator...
fretting and metal erosion on stock compensator - Harley Davidson Community
Here's a thread regarding this upgrade.
Compensator Upgrade Update - Harley Davidson Community
BT Compensator kit.pdf
Also refer to this post...
Starter Noise Complaints - Harley Davidson Community
This (SE) premium compensator has been engineered with heavier springs and increased travel to support the high-torque output associated with high compression race and large displacement engines. Designed to support up to 7 times the energy absorption capacity of the Original Equipment compensator, this unit helps protect the engine and drive line components during harsh drag race launches. The perfect addition to a complete performance upgrade, and complements the installation of the Screamin' Eagle® Performance Clutch Hub P/N 37976-08.
Here's a write up that "GS34" did with the installation of this compensator kit on his 2007 FLHTC.
Well, back on the 4th of Dec. I said I was going to install a big twin compensator kit after the hollidays. OK So, here it is and today was the day. I will try my best to give you a good report on the installation.
I start by saying, I purchased the kit, part # 40274-08, on line for $199.96 + $15.00 shipping.
The instructions that come with the kit are very straight forward, and if you have a service manual, torque wrench, and basic hand tools, the installation should be no problem at all.
Also. the work will be a lot easier on your back if you have the bike up on a jack, however, that is not a requirement.
Drain the oil from the primary and remove the outer primary cover.
Once you have everything opened up, just follow the directions in your service manual for removing the clutch and compensator.
Make sure you collapse the slack adjuster and hold it from expanding with a plastic tie, or piece of mechanics wire, prior to removing the 2 bolts which hold it in place.
Take care when removing the snapring in the clutch basket that it doesn't fly out and get lost.
The stock compensator, primary chain and clutch will slide right off their shafts and can be removed as 1 unit.
This will leave the rotor exposed for removal, but here is where you have a choice to make.
There is not enough clearance in the front lower corner to pull the rotor. So, you either have to remove the inner primary housing, or grind a bit of the excess material away from the inner lip, to allow the rotor to clear the housing.
I choose to grind.
After cleaning the inner housing of all oil, I protected all of the shaft and seal areas with duct tape. Then, I packed rags in around the rotor and front area so that none of the shavings or dirt created could get into areas where it could cause damage.
Once you have enough material removed, Clean everything out good, wash it down with solvent or brake clean, and blow it off with air.
The old rotor will pull off with a little pressure (because of the magnets) and the new one will slide right on the splines.
This is the new rotor installed.
These next 2 pictures show where the material had to be removed from the inner primary.
This is the new spring pac and shaft extension installed.
This is the new steeper ramp assembly in place.
Next comes the re installation of the new heavier compensator sprocket along with the primary chain and clutch.
After reinstalling the clutch, and getting everything torqued to spec, make sure that your snap ring is fully seated in its groove. You might want to tap on it with a small punch and hammer to insure this.
Don't forget to remove the tie that you had previously added to hold your tensioner in place.
That's all there is to it.
Reinstall all your covers, taking care to use the proper tightening sequence on the outer primary.
Refill with the proper amount of oil....remember, it will take more than the normal change, where you don't pull the outer cover.
Hope that covers it thoroughly enough.
If anyone decides to do this install and has any questions, feel free to PM me and I will do my best to answer them for you.
gs34 also mentioned that he made it a point to ask the service dept of 4 different dealers about this installation and if there were any pitfalls to the installation that he need to be aware of.
Of the 4 he asked, not 1 had done the installation. 2 had never even heard of it, and one of them even argued with him about its existence.
Of the 2 dealers who knew of the part, only 1 had a tech (who had recently returned from a factory school) who could even talk intelligently about it.
gs34 added ...I could add that on examining the old stock compensator, I was surprised at the amount of wear evident on the ramps and on their mating surfaces. With 14000 miles on the bike, there was more wear there than I would have expected.
Conversly, the chain tensioner shoe was in like new condition with no wear and only light scuffing evident in the surface.
NOTE:
"eleft36" also posted this input for this kit after he installed this kit.
Mr. Data this pdf has flawed information:
1)this can not be done:"Rotate the compensating sprocket to make sure there is a light pressure on the sprocket from the springs. No clearance should be felt. A slight rotation should be possible by hand with the transmission in neutral."
2) Parts A & B are included and are much different than the original the instructions relate to.
That said, the kit is the greatest improvement any one can make.
Here's an interesting thread on this compensator...
fretting and metal erosion on stock compensator - Harley Davidson Community
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