Check Engine Light

[dodomrkc]

Hello all,
Have 2004 Road King Custom, just passed 10,000 milles,
When I turn on the switch on the console, everything is fine.
When I push the run button, the check engine light comes on and the efi gets the gas feed like normal then goes out. A second or two later the check engine light comes on in yellow for about 3-4 sceonds,then goes back off. And seems to stay off until the next time I start her up. Is this normal after the 10,000 mile range? Like maybe a service warning or something more is going on and will cause a failure down the road?

 

[glider]

You have set a code due to something not within the parameters set by the manufacturer. If it comes on and goes out, it is a historic code and not present at this time (something happened in the past) Could be a bad start with a kickback etc.

Here's how to check and clear it. Also record the error code for future reference.

http://www.hdtimeline.com/diagnosti...ed/728-04_06_hd_dtc_codes_and_activation.html

 

[dodomrkc]

Glider,
Thanks for the response.
Yesterday I was doing some muffler (slip ons)line up work, (noticed that one showed to be a bit longer than the other) that was the only thing I did except for some cleaning. Would that have changed something to cause this code to come up. I did ride for a couple of hours before doing this work, no problems there.
Could you also expand further the bad start and the kick back?
And also if it is a historic code, why is it coming back now?
Thanks for your help.

 

[glider]

If by cleaning, you used a hose, you may have some water in a connection.

The work on the mufflers shouldn't cause a code. Did you disconnect the battery for anything?

As far as "Could you also expand further the bad start and the kick back"
Sometimes you hit the start button and then your finger may slip off and not actually start and you try again (bad start) and kick back is when you try to start and for some reason it was at the top of a compression stroke and kicked back wards. Sounds much different than a normal start.

A historic code is something that happened in the past and will continue to light that light until you have cleared it with the odometer button as stated in that link above that I posted for you. It will eventually clear itself after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each providing the trouble that caused it originally is not repeated again.

Again refer to #8 in that link above which states...

8 - ...
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

 

[dodomrkc]

Thanks again for the info. Did not use any water hoses yesterday,however did remove the battery cover to gain access to a heat shield screw. Will try to use the dtc codes you provided the link for earlier. I got the bike with 6,000 miles on it and this was the first time I remember having this issue. Will let you know what happens, hope this works. Thanks again.

 

[glider]

One thing I forgot to mention to clarify the codes is that a historic code when logged will light the light and go out after it comes on for the second time following a start. A current code will keep the light lit constantly while running meaning the fault is present that lit the light.

 

[dodomrkc]

Glider,
Web site has been down. Thanks for the tips on clearing the error code. Followed instructions and has not re-appeared yet.
Recorded error code and is related to the bad start situation you were explaining.

Thanks again.:worthy

 

[glider]

Glad it worked out for you, those engine lights can get on your nerves when they are lit.

 

[dodomrkc]

Weird thing, came back this weekend, cleared by the instructions you sent, this time a different code, the code this time was "invalid password". Will this be an ongoing thing? or is it just spitting out codes. Everything runs fine otherwise.
One thought, have Vance & Hines exhaust with no ecm adjustment, am planning on getting the stage 1 high flow kit, does this have anything to do with the check engine light codes? And if does will the stage 1 download clear this up?

 

[glider]

The "invalid password" code, I can't give you any feed back on that one. I would say clear it and see if it returns. Maybe a dealer can give you some input on that one.

You shouldn't be setting any codes with the installation of the slipons. The 02 sensors came out later in 06 on bikes so we can rule that one out.
The ecm download for the stage 1 may clear things up for you but I would run it by the dealer first so they can check it out before the download is done.
If the codes keep appearing, keep a list of them.
Is the code you got P1010?