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bad riding season second break down

You should see a spark it you hold the wire tip about 1/4" from the engine . I use a phillips screwdriver in the plug wire end and hold the shaft of the driver about 1/4" from a grounded part.
 
I was recently fighting an intermittent ignition problem, and the CPS was one of the 1st things to change out because, 1) if it goes bad it will not necessarily kick out any DTC info., needless to say, it ohmed out and eyeballed okay; 2) it is "relatively inexpensive" $45 or so, 3) it is easily replaced, located on the engine block near the oil filter, harness clipped onto frame guide, and simple plug and play. I also replaced the ignition coil, 1) same reason, 2) more expensive $99, 3) also easily replaced, with plug & play operation. AND everything is good so far (been about a week.

Can't say this was very scientific, just intuition (MINE), but had tried heat gun and cold spray, but after 2 dozen road trips and pushing the bike after several attempts, was too frustrated to do much more (the ICM is $225...HD dealer could not program, so I asked them to return it and went this route) based also on the HD Senior Service Manager who said the CPS and Ignition Coil fail MUCH more often than the 1 or 2 ICM or TSSMs he has changed out, all things being equal. BTW, all the wiring, engine kill ckt/switch functioning was okay and main harness all checked out (electronics is my bag). Just hate "black box" potted items, nothing to analyse, just standard I/O ohmmeter checks and substitution...isn't modern electronics "fun"!!!
 
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You should see a spark it you hold the wire tip about 1/4" from the engine . I use a phillips screwdriver in the plug wire end and hold the shaft of the driver about 1/4" from a grounded part.

ya i dident get any that way but with plug in wire got sumthing dident look to strong thou
 
I was recently fighting an intermittent ignition problem, and the CPS was one of the 1st things to change out because, 1) if it goes bad it will not necessarily kick out any DTC info., needless to say, it ohmed out and eyeballed okay; 2) it is "relatively inexpensive" $45 or so, 3) it is easily replaced, located on the engine block near the oil filter, harness clipped onto frame guide, and simple plug and play. I also replaced the ignition coil, 1) same reason, 2) more expensive $99, 3) also easily replaced, with plug & play operation. AND everything is good so far (been about a week).

Can't say this was very scientific, just intuition (MINE), but had tried heat gun and cold spray, but after 2 dozen road trips and pushing the bike after several attempts, was too frustrated to do much more (the ICM is $225...HD dealer could not program, so I asked them to return it and went this route) based also on the HD Senior Service Manager who said the CPS and Ignition Coil fail MUCH more often than the 1 or 2 ICM or TSSMs he has changed out, all things being equal. BTW, all the wiring, engine kill ckt/switch functioning was okay and main harness all checked out (electronics is my bag). Just hate "black box" potted items, nothing to analyse, just standard I/O ohmmeter checks and substitution...isn't modern electronics "fun"!!!


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so did that solve your problom replaceing the cps and coil?
 
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You should see a spark it you hold the wire tip about 1/4" from the engine . I use a phillips screwdriver in the plug wire end and hold the shaft of the driver about 1/4" from a grounded part.

ok i just did the screw driver test and got the spark i just dont understand i got fuel and spark should fire?
 
no haven't checked compression i am a car guy for sure know a little bit but would think if it would be compression bike would have ran weak or gave some sign of issues i may be wrong to but big gave now problems prior to not starting up after i just rode most the night and day
 
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