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1984 FXRSDG shuts down

no security or bank or tip shut off in the old days that I ever saw

Hummm, no bank, tip over or security. Boy, it sure did sound like ignition to me. So this thing has a compete self contained ignition. Engine kill is probably B+ supply to ignition module and the "test light" would have told us that.
I would say try the spark plug test just to be proof positive.
 
Hummm, no bank, tip over or security. Boy, it sure did sound like ignition to me. So this thing has a compete self contained ignition. Engine kill is probably B+ supply to ignition module and the "test light" would have told us that.
I would say try the spark plug test just to be proof positive.

Yep:s
 
I sure wish I could ride the bike just to experience 1st hand what it feels like when it fails. Since it is non-ECM it sure can not be too deep.
But what can you do....
 
I sure wish I could ride the bike just to experience 1st hand what it feels like when it fails. Since it is non-ECM it sure can not be too deep.
But what can you do....

Hit the phoney black box with a large Hammer like Glider would have, rip it off the bike change over to points and condensor and RIDE:rofl
 
Shucks-Thought we were down to the driveway? Ok, below is the wiring diagram. Rain tomorrow, so looks like the weekend is the next test, see if I can get stranded ride. And I assume I want to keep the gap of the plug on the aluminum part of the head next to the existing plug, and NOT on the chrome part of the head? Stupid I know, but better to ask.

1) I believe that diagram on post 18 showed all the wiring for the 3 components. Doubt I have a tip over kill but have never had to find out.

2) I have a kill switch right next to the throttle on the handle bars. Not sure how it works.

As always, thanks everyone for entertaining me. Peanuts anyone???

PS-Guess you know u have to hover your mouse over the drawing until a blue box pops up in the lower right hand corner? Once it lights up click it and the drawing explodes to large.

http://mysite.verizon.net/new.p/ucancontactme/wiring%20diagram.jpg
 
Good diagram. Before you take the bike out for a test I would like you to do one other thing. Looking at your diagram, the coil has four wires going to it. On the TOP there are a pair of WHITE wires.

Question.
1) Was this the point where you attached your test light to? One wire of light bulb circuit to the pair of white wires (stud) and other test light wire to frame ground?

Perform the following step.
2) On the other side of the coil there appears to be a PINK wire and a Blue (? not clear in diagram). I want you to remove the PINK wire during your rode test. The tach will not work, Just ignore that for now. Remove the pink wire and conduct the spark plug gap test if/when the bike fails.

A few other added notes to check & do just so they can be eliminated from the overall picture.

3) Look at the ignition module in the schematic that you uploaded. You will see a Black wire coming out of the regulator that goes to frame ground. Locate that wire on the bike and make sure that ground wire ring terminal is clean and tight. Loosen the stud or bolt the ring terminal is attached to, check it,,clean it,, and re-tighten it.

4) The secondary side of your ignition coil does not use a "center tap". Therefore both plugs are in series with each other. That means if 1 plug goes "open circuit" for some reason, BOTH plugs will fail to fire. On most ignitions, a bad wire will only affect that associated cylinder. This is Not the case with your bike. Therefore in your case it is Very important that you check both spark plug wires using an ohm meter. Remove each wire and check the resistance for anything that may be way out of line. As long as you get a resistance reading of below 5K on each wire, your OK.
Normally I would not even be concerned about the condition of the wires for a problem like yours but on your particular setup it is important because if 1 wire is bad, BOTH plugs will fail to fire. It was not until you uploaded the diagram did I realize this. This is the reason why I love schematics. They give you little clues that are no where in print. :)

5) Even though you passed the "mini red test light" test early on, I want you to keep that light hooked up until you have resolved your problem. When you go out for the ride with the spare spark plug in your pocket, I want that red test light still in place and working. I want you to monitor it just like before. If your bike dies and you swap out the spark plug, when you are cranking the engine looking for spark,, that mini test light should be lit also. This is a must if you want to prevent going in circles looking for the answer to this problem.
 
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I don't have a tach. I attached the wire to the front side of the bike. I believe it had 2 wires.

I don't have a clue what you are talking about. "You attached a wire to the front of the bike" What does that mean? What does that have to do with anything I just wrote. What does "you believe it had 2 wires mean"?

I am trying to help you, I really am. But with a reply like that, I am beginning to feel we are going in circles.
 
Sorry. You had asked in post 86 where did I hook the test light. It was the from of the coil towards the front forks, and it had 2 wires. I attached the other end to the bolt (ground) going through the front of the gas tank.

Paul

Test tomorrow. The plan.

Hook up the red test light again. Check ground & clean on ign mod. Carry a plug gapped to .060, swap w/gap plug when it fails, check red light. If spark, swap back to plug in head and see if it starts. Since I don't have a tach, I will skip item 2 on post 86. Will have to purchase an ohm meter if all this fails to bring resolution since I don't have one.

Paul
 
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If you need an ohmmeter...Harbor Freight has a Digital Multimeter for 7.99 List. It was on sale for $1.99 with coupon...20% less!
 
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