J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Wow, sorry to hear of all your problems, Hoople will get you squared away hang in there , sorry I could not help you figure this one out , Capital Jack
1984 FXRSDG shuts down
- Thread starter pnew122
- Start date
Believe me, I've learned a ton in the last few eeeks here. You guys are great. Thanks
Ok, I give up. Have the ohm meter and NO idea how to check for resistance on the plug wires. Please help.
Last edited by a moderator:
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
10k ohms per foot is a rule of thumb, Wiggle the wires to see if the values change much this will tell if the wires have internal breaks
I know this sounds stupid, but I have no idea where to hook the leads, to do the check. I have NEVER used an ohm meter, and don't have a clue.
I pulled one wire off the back of the coil and stuck the black lead inside. I then pulled the SAME wire off the spark plug and stuck the red lead inside. Got nothing.
I pulled one wire off the back of the coil and stuck the black lead inside. I then pulled the SAME wire off the spark plug and stuck the red lead inside. Got nothing.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
One lead in each end of the wires, not stupid just learning, dont get down on yourself for asking for help that is why we are all here, Make sure you are on the higher setting on the meter to get a good reading
Thanks Jack. Looks like the highest is X1K. Is it possible to get zero reading?
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Ok, think I have it. Set the ohm meter to X1K, and the needle to zero. I assume the top green line for reading will be in 1000's. The front wire measured 4000, and the back 5000. Let me see if I'm thinking of this right. Touching the 2 leads together with nothing between is zero since there is nothing to "drain" the flow of energy. By merely putting "anything" in between the leads, it will show a "loss" of energy? And naturally the longer the object (plug wire in this case) the higher the reading?
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Ok, think I have it. Set the ohm meter to X1K, and the needle to zero. I assume the top green line for reading will be in 1000's. The front wire measured 4000, and the back 5000. Let me see if I'm thinking of this right. Touching the 2 leads together with nothing between is zero since there is nothing to "drain" the flow of energy. By merely putting "anything" in between the leads, it will show a "loss" of energy? And naturally the longer the object (plug wire in this case) the higher the reading?
Last edited by a moderator:
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Zero ohms would be no resistance, I had a similar problem with a 1980 FLH, it would cut out on 1 cylinder, it was the BLACK BOX, I junked the whole system put in points and never looked back
Hoople-Final test run complete. Hope you can sum it up for me. Below is my previous post edited for tonight.
Post # 101 on 9/21/10
1A) Front of the coil towards forks. I have 2 wires wraped in a single sleeve. One is white, and the other looks blue. I also have another single white wire hooked to the same place. The blue wire is attached to the front and then runs to the back.
This is where I attached 1 end of the red light wire, and the other to the frame for ground.
1B) On the back of the coil is the blue wire that runs from the front, and also the pink/red color wire.
2) I unplugged the pink wire from the back, and will let you know next time I ride what the spark plug test shows if it fails.
3) I cleaned/sanded not only ALL terminals, but also the frame down to bare metal.
4) Time to show my ignorance again. I have never used an ohm meter, but will pick one up @ Wally Mart next visit. Can you tell me if the bike should be running to do the test?
5) As I mentioned after cleaning the ground on the ign mod to perfection, and putting in new plugs, it never sputtered or failed the entire ride Sat. What did happen though is almost home, I noticed the red light was out, but running perfectly. Reached down to see if anything was loose but felt nothing. Few min later light was back on.
Pulled in driveway and red light off again. Left running, tightened both ends, would not come on. Left the bike sit for about an hour off, came back & turned ign on, and got a red light. So either "time" or "heat" or some other factor caused that light to go out, even though it ran perfect.
9/25/10
# 4 above. Only change before ride was I checked the ohm readings for both plug wires. Front had 4000 and back had 5000.
Took another ride today, about 15 mi. When I left the pink wire for the tach was unhooked. Before I left, I could NOT get the red light to come on. Drove about 7 mi no problem. Did a turn around, stopped bike (but running) and tried to get red light lit. No go. Turned bike completely off then back on, still no light. Left from there and got about a mile or 2 and light back on. Couple mi later it had a very quick cough but NO backfire and NO stall. Red light never flickered all the way home. Any ideas you can think of?
Thanks-Paul
Post # 101 on 9/21/10
1A) Front of the coil towards forks. I have 2 wires wraped in a single sleeve. One is white, and the other looks blue. I also have another single white wire hooked to the same place. The blue wire is attached to the front and then runs to the back.
This is where I attached 1 end of the red light wire, and the other to the frame for ground.
1B) On the back of the coil is the blue wire that runs from the front, and also the pink/red color wire.
2) I unplugged the pink wire from the back, and will let you know next time I ride what the spark plug test shows if it fails.
3) I cleaned/sanded not only ALL terminals, but also the frame down to bare metal.
4) Time to show my ignorance again. I have never used an ohm meter, but will pick one up @ Wally Mart next visit. Can you tell me if the bike should be running to do the test?
5) As I mentioned after cleaning the ground on the ign mod to perfection, and putting in new plugs, it never sputtered or failed the entire ride Sat. What did happen though is almost home, I noticed the red light was out, but running perfectly. Reached down to see if anything was loose but felt nothing. Few min later light was back on.
Pulled in driveway and red light off again. Left running, tightened both ends, would not come on. Left the bike sit for about an hour off, came back & turned ign on, and got a red light. So either "time" or "heat" or some other factor caused that light to go out, even though it ran perfect.
9/25/10
# 4 above. Only change before ride was I checked the ohm readings for both plug wires. Front had 4000 and back had 5000.
Took another ride today, about 15 mi. When I left the pink wire for the tach was unhooked. Before I left, I could NOT get the red light to come on. Drove about 7 mi no problem. Did a turn around, stopped bike (but running) and tried to get red light lit. No go. Turned bike completely off then back on, still no light. Left from there and got about a mile or 2 and light back on. Couple mi later it had a very quick cough but NO backfire and NO stall. Red light never flickered all the way home. Any ideas you can think of?
Thanks-Paul
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Im thinking the control module is on its way out, If it were mine I would junk the whole system, and switch it to points and condensor and ride it , but thats just me, it would be a lot easier to repair JMO