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1984 FXRSDG shuts down

Road test 2 complete.

Before I left, the following was done.

Pushed in on both spark plug wires (back side) on coil===Loosened, sanded, and re-attached the 2 wires on the front of the coil, and the 2 (2 wires connected with 1 single terminal) wires on the back of coil===Took ground screw completely out of ingnition module along with 2 wires, sanded both sides of each wire, and also what I could on the metal bar type piece attached (ground) to the frame===Left in the same plugs from before in particular the 1 in the rear cylinder which was slightly dark w/a hint of gas smell===and after last ride as I mentioned I found the frayed "outer" coating wire that went from the ign mod to the nose cone to which I inspected the best I could, found nothing, so I left it as is but made sure it wasn't against the metal piece that wore down the sleeve.

Drove about 14 mi this time & very quick had 2 short hesitations within a split second but NO backfire, and NO stall. Continued to drive hoping it would fail. Had it up to 75-80, down to 35 or so but on average, 55 the whole way. Sat on the side of the road @ idle, stopped and got gas shutting it off, and after 70 mi, I finally gave up. Not 1 backfire or anything. When I got home while it was running, I unsrcewed both the front and back screws of the coil but it would not stall. As soon as I started to unscrew the ign mod screw, it sputtered then stalled. So here are my questions.

1) Should I strip the casing off the wire from the ign mod as much as I can and tape back w/ electrical tape? I'd replace it but that would mean the whole nose cone wiring.

2) Should I replace both spark plug wires just to be on the safe side?

3) Could that one single ground screw be the likely cause of all this?

4) Could 1 of the 2 coil wires been loose on the back side just enough to cause all this?

Shirley agreed she would take a ride tomorrow for lunch. The trip is about 20 mi one way. I intend to replace both spark plugs with a fresh set, remove the ground to the ign mod once again & this time, clear a larger base area for that screw to ground, remove the coil so I can see the back & make proof positive they are in tight.

Thanks in advance to all. Can't tell you how much I have learned and also appreciate all the help thus far.

Paul
 
pnew122 said:
Road test 2 complete.

Before I left, the following was done.

Pushed in on both spark plug wires (back side) on coil===Loosened, sanded, and re-attached the 2 wires on the front of the coil, and the 2 (2 wires connected with 1 single terminal) wires on the back of coil===Took ground screw completely out of ingnition module along with 2 wires, sanded both sides of each wire, and also what I could on the metal bar type piece attached (ground) to the frame===Left in the same plugs from before in particular the 1 in the rear cylinder which was slightly dark w/a hint of gas smell===and after last ride as I mentioned I found the frayed "outer" coating wire that went from the ign mod to the nose cone to which I inspected the best I could, found nothing, so I left it as is but made sure it wasn't against the metal piece that wore down the sleeve.

Drove about 14 mi this time & very quick had 2 short hesitations within a split second but NO backfire, and NO stall. Continued to drive hoping it would fail. Had it up to 75-80, down to 35 or so but on average, 55 the whole way. Sat on the side of the road @ idle, stopped and got gas shutting it off, and after 70 mi, I finally gave up. Not 1 backfire or anything. When I got home while it was running, I unsrcewed both the front and back screws of the coil but it would not stall. As soon as I started to unscrew the ign mod screw, it sputtered then stalled. So here are my questions.

1) Should I strip the casing off the wire from the ign mod as much as I can and tape back w/ electrical tape? I'd replace it but that would mean the whole nose cone wiring.

2) Should I replace both spark plug wires just to be on the safe side?

3) Could that one single ground screw be the likely cause of all this?

4) Could 1 of the 2 coil wires been loose on the back side just enough to cause all this?

Shirley agreed she would take a ride tomorrow for lunch. The trip is about 20 mi one way. I intend to replace both spark plugs with a fresh set, remove the ground to the ign mod once again & this time, clear a larger base area for that screw to ground, remove the coil so I can see the back & make proof positive they are in tight.

Thanks in advance to all. Can't tell you how much I have learned and also appreciate all the help thus far.

Paul
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan, electricity is a funny animal , Good luck and let us know:s
 
I would think since you loosened the single screw to the ignition module that it stalled, that I would get some copper braid like those that ground the ignition breaker plate; as an alternative you can go to electronics store and get "Solder Wick" put terminal eyes on the ends as a makes shift ground strap.
 
Ride 3 complete-more questions.

New plugs, took paint down to the frame for ground on the ign mod. 18 mi to lunch and NO hesitation, and no stall or backfire. Lunch about 1/2 hour then headed home. About 1/2 way happened to look down & see red light out, min or so back on, but still running smooth as silk. Last mi or so red light went out & never came back on. Once home left it runing trying to get it lit jiggling wires & no luck. Turned it off then ign back on still no red light. Tightened leads to make sure they were tight, no light. Waited about an hour or so, went back in garage w/ign switch on, & red light was on.

Seems once the bike cooled the red light cam back on. What's up with that? As previously stated it goes from the front of the coil to the tank bolt. Does it hold any significance the bike ran perfect but once hot, the red light went out?

And 1 correction. Not sure why I said it didn't have a tach. Duh. It actually had a blown bulb (1st 1 in 26 years I might add) so while replacing it, realized I posted the wrong thing.

Thanks
Paul
 
Ok, simple question then. If the red light was grounded to the frame, and hooked to the front of the coil, why did the light go out?

Thanks
Paul
 
Still waiting for an answer to Entry point #86 step #1. Still don't even know if there are two white wires going to a stud on the coil. Give me some supporting information that the schematic I am looking at, actually is what your bike has in it. Still waiting for an answer to entry point #86 step #2. As to if you have a Pink & Blue wire on the other coil stud terminal. If not what colors are they. First you said you had no tach. Then I think you said you had a tach. That's fine, but tell me about that pink wire and I won't need to know if you physically have a tach or not. Once again, I am trying to see if the schematic I am looking at matches what you even have.

There is 750 miles between your bike and my eyes. In entry point #91 you refer to "two wires" on the front of the coil. Telling me what colors they were (as I asked in #86 step1) would have been very helpful so I can look at the schematic and understand exactly what you cleaned.

Even after what I said in entry point #88, I still don't know anymore about what the color of the wires are. At this rate your problem will eventually go away but your never going to know EXACTLY what it was or exactly what fixed it...
 
Hoople-Answers to #86

1A) Front of the coil towards forks. I have 2 wires wraped in a single sleeve. One is white, and the other looks blue. I also have another single white wire hooked to the same place. The blue wire is attached to the front and then runs to the back.

This is where I attached 1 end of the red light wire, and the other to the frame for ground.

1B) On the back of the coil is the blue wire that runs from the front, and also the pink/red color wire.

2) I unplugged the pink wire from the back, and will let you know next time I ride what the spark plug test shows if it fails.

3) I cleaned/sanded not only ALL terminals, but also the frame down to bare metal.

4) Time to show my ignorance again. I have never used an ohm meter, but will pick one up @ Wally Mart next visit. Can you tell me if the bike should be running to do the test?

5) As I mentioned after cleaning the ground on the ign mod to perfection, and putting in new plugs, it never sputtered or failed the entire ride Sat. What did happen though is almost home, I noticed the red light was out, but running perfectly. Reached down to see if anything was loose but felt nothing. Few min later light was back on.

Pulled in driveway and red light off again. Left running, tightened both ends, would not come on. Left the bike sit for about an hour off, came back & turned ign on, and got a red light. So either "time" or "heat" or some other factor caused that light to go out, even though it ran perfect.

I agree in finding the exact problem and NOT just saying it went away, so I'm fine. As always appreciate the help here. And not that it's your concern but a lot is happening @ my job. I'm responsible for all of the raws & all of the making area for Covergirl Cosmetics Powders business, which is world wide. Our site is the only site that supplies the world. Things have been blowing up the last few weeks.

Add in 2 elderly (83 for momma & 88 for pop) parents, and life is hectic. Both now in assisted living. Mother has been in hospital 2 times the last month, and fallen 4 times. Been making trips from work to PA & back to MD on what seems to be a regular basis. I mean come on. Had the bike 26 years and didn't even think I had a tach. Jeez. My brain is slightly fried of late.

Paul
 
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