Hoople
Account Removed
Were you able to replace the bearing along with the inner race without special tools. Looks like you need a special puller to get that inner race out. (?)
Don't really need it(?)
06 dyna Rotor-Stator
- Thread starter porkchop
- Start date
Were you able to replace the bearing along with the inner race without special tools. Looks like you need a special puller to get that inner race out. (?)
Don't really need it(?)
Conolon Kid
Member
Naa. You're supposed to need a puller for the rotor too, but it slid right off.
Well guys I'm trying to get the rotor to clear the primary case to remove it and read here to grind some metal away. It's getting closer to coming off but it seems I'm doing quite a bit of grinding. Pretty much 6:00 to 9:00 position.
For those who had to grind the primary case was there a problem with leakage or any weakening issues?
Also did anyone try using a metal epoxy like JB Weld to put on the threads of the screws?
TIA
Rob
For those who had to grind the primary case was there a problem with leakage or any weakening issues?
Also did anyone try using a metal epoxy like JB Weld to put on the threads of the screws?
TIA
Rob
Hoople
Account Removed
I think JB weld is Great stuff and use it all the time. But I would never ask it to work in an application like this. The vibration and hammering that rotor gets especially at low RPM would be too much for epoxy in my opinion.
Just a hit off a mig welder on each screw would do it. No need to run a bead and heat it up.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Got to agree with Hoop on this one, I have made cooling fins for for VL Flathead HD with it but in a high stress area I doubt it that is a hostile environment it lives in JMO
Conolon Kid
Member
I probaby got a couple hundred miles on this repair, and there's something about it I just don't trust. I think I'm gonna yank it apart again.
Hoople
Account Removed
Conolon Kid
Member
Let me guess.
You inventoried your tools and 1 is missing.
Naa, I thought I did a perfect job. Bought the shop manual, took my time, proper torque specs on everything. Just kinda feels a little different than it did before.
Well I got my repair done and TIG welded the screw heads and all seems good on the test run of the bike.
I did notice that my compensating sprocket bolt had blue locktite on it when I removed it. When I installed the compensating sprocket bolt I applied the Blue Locktite but later in the repair manual it called for Red Locktite, which according to the Locktite website is medium permenant. The Blue is a Medium removable (with hand tools).
Is the BLUE Locktite sufficient for the application?
Rob
I did notice that my compensating sprocket bolt had blue locktite on it when I removed it. When I installed the compensating sprocket bolt I applied the Blue Locktite but later in the repair manual it called for Red Locktite, which according to the Locktite website is medium permenant. The Blue is a Medium removable (with hand tools).
Is the BLUE Locktite sufficient for the application?
Rob
Hoople
Account Removed
I would say your fine. I used Blue (#242) when I put mine together and never had a problem. Mine was 140 ft/lbs on compensator bolt. Blue or Red, my guess it's not going anywhere.