06 dyna Rotor-Stator
- Thread starter porkchop
- Start date
Conolon Kid
Member
I never heard anyone commenting on the replacement Stator being twice as thick as the original.
Hoople
Account Removed
Never heard or seen of that before. Give us more facts, dimensions, info, & maybe a picture so we CAN comment.
Conolon Kid
Member
Can't do it now cause it's all together. When it blew up, I thought I'd save some dough and get the parts myself. I chose Accel cause I figured they been doing it for a long time and I trusted them. I ordered the stator & rotor for what they said was for my year. When I got them, the stator seemed like it'd work, but the rotor had no holes in it to bolt up the compensator. I called Accel and could tell the guy just figured the part was ok and that he was just talking to a moron. Anyhow, he told me to send them back for a refund. I did. So I figure it's time to bite the bullet and get the OEM Harley parts. Now, my bike's been splayed open for a week, so when the parts came in I was ready to throw them in. The rotor was the new welded part. The stator was about twice the thickness of the original. I figured "Wrong part again", (what a surprize). So I brought everything back. Old & new rotors & stators.
I had three mechanics standing there scratching their heads. The new rotor is so fat that it hangs offa the collar a little. So they start looking up part numbers. Old numbers, new year numbers service bulletin numbers. The outcome was "This is the right one" and I had to use longer stator bolts cause the stock ones that went through the old stator wouldn't even make it to the bolt hole through the new one. So I figured, ok, these guys do this stuff every day. If they say it's right it's probably right. Went home, bolted everything up and it worked. That was that. But as I mentioned on this forum when I first did the job, I always thought it didn't sound right with the new stuff in there. So much so that the next day I tore it down again to check that I didn't miss anything, and that everything was torqued by the book. I've put a couple thousand miles on it since so it does work, but I was never happy with the sound, I just put up with it.
Yesterday I brought the bike in to have the fix put in for the front end clunk. The mechanic took about fifteen minutes to fix it. He tested it up & down the street. When he came back he said "Clunk's gone, but you got something going on inside the primary." So I ain't crazy, something ain't right. I called Milwaukee yesterday when I got home and it sounds like they don't want to do anything for me.
If this noise has been the result of the wrong stator, I am gonna snap.
I had three mechanics standing there scratching their heads. The new rotor is so fat that it hangs offa the collar a little. So they start looking up part numbers. Old numbers, new year numbers service bulletin numbers. The outcome was "This is the right one" and I had to use longer stator bolts cause the stock ones that went through the old stator wouldn't even make it to the bolt hole through the new one. So I figured, ok, these guys do this stuff every day. If they say it's right it's probably right. Went home, bolted everything up and it worked. That was that. But as I mentioned on this forum when I first did the job, I always thought it didn't sound right with the new stuff in there. So much so that the next day I tore it down again to check that I didn't miss anything, and that everything was torqued by the book. I've put a couple thousand miles on it since so it does work, but I was never happy with the sound, I just put up with it.
Yesterday I brought the bike in to have the fix put in for the front end clunk. The mechanic took about fifteen minutes to fix it. He tested it up & down the street. When he came back he said "Clunk's gone, but you got something going on inside the primary." So I ain't crazy, something ain't right. I called Milwaukee yesterday when I got home and it sounds like they don't want to do anything for me.
If this noise has been the result of the wrong stator, I am gonna snap.
Hoople
Account Removed
Now I see where your coming from. You have been through the mill on what should be a simple fix.
Your right. It is strange no one has mentioned the thicker stator or needing to use different bolts. The part about the stator being so thick the magnets do not completely cover the flux concentrators of the stator just seems wrong to me.
Would it have been possible to buy the SE compensator kit. That would have gotten you a 1 piece rotor that you know should fit your bike. (that is at least bolt up) Then all you would have needed is a proper thickness stator.
Something is just not right regarding the "overhang of the rotor vs the laminations of the stator. There is no way that difference is there by design. Even if they say it is "OK",, I don't agree with it.
Your right. It is strange no one has mentioned the thicker stator or needing to use different bolts. The part about the stator being so thick the magnets do not completely cover the flux concentrators of the stator just seems wrong to me.
Would it have been possible to buy the SE compensator kit. That would have gotten you a 1 piece rotor that you know should fit your bike. (that is at least bolt up) Then all you would have needed is a proper thickness stator.
Something is just not right regarding the "overhang of the rotor vs the laminations of the stator. There is no way that difference is there by design. Even if they say it is "OK",, I don't agree with it.
Conolon Kid
Member
Other than the welding and the magnets being a little different, the rotor seems ok. It's the stator that hangs off the collar of the block a little. Also when it blew up originally, it chipped up a couple magnets.
Hoople
Account Removed
I may not fully understand what you mean by overhang of the stator. The stator is made up of poles or flux concentrators that have the magnet wire wrapped around them. The intended design is to have the flying magnets completely cover the poles as they pass. If there is any uncovered pole surface as the magnets pass, I assure you there will be a tremendous reduction in generated current.
If you pull it back down, take some pictures. I would really like to see it.
If you pull it back down, take some pictures. I would really like to see it.
Conolon Kid
Member
Ok. Forget the rotor, magnets & stator windings. I'm talking about the machined aluminum center of the stator. It is round, as is the collar of the engine case it slips onto and then is held on by 4 bolts.
And there ain't a problem with charging cause like I said I did it a couple thousand miles ago and as far as charging, it's fine. If you got a stock stator, lemme know how thick it is and I'll give you a guesstimate on how thick the new one is.
And there ain't a problem with charging cause like I said I did it a couple thousand miles ago and as far as charging, it's fine. If you got a stock stator, lemme know how thick it is and I'll give you a guesstimate on how thick the new one is.
Conolon Kid
Member
Ok, I can splain it better now. I just found this.
Stator Replacement - Harley Davidson Community
In video 4, see how the stator is sitting on the collar? They're just about flush. My replacement stator comes out about an 3/16" past it.
Stator Replacement - Harley Davidson Community
In video 4, see how the stator is sitting on the collar? They're just about flush. My replacement stator comes out about an 3/16" past it.
nobler1050
New Member
Have a question for you guys. I just had this happen to my 06 bob with 17k miles on it.
I had my bike out from the collision center for less then a week and was on the first ride over a few miles when it happened. I originally thought it may be due to the accident since the mechanic mentioned cracked rotor.
Is it at all possible that an accident would accelerate the problem with the rotor/bolts loosening due to an impact? If so what are my chances convincing my insurance company that it was related.
I had my bike out from the collision center for less then a week and was on the first ride over a few miles when it happened. I originally thought it may be due to the accident since the mechanic mentioned cracked rotor.
Is it at all possible that an accident would accelerate the problem with the rotor/bolts loosening due to an impact? If so what are my chances convincing my insurance company that it was related.