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What exactly is so bad about Syn 3 oil in the crank case?

That would be helpful to see if they made some real changes or just printed new labels. At a two dollar difference a quart I hope some changes were made.

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Yes they did CHANGE,,,, a LITTLE LESS back out of a 20$ bill is about all in MY Opinion...

None of this stuff for me NOR do I suggest ITs use...

Redline for me....

signed....BUBBIE
 
In testing syn3 even in its new fully synthetic form,they changed it to a group 4 oil last year.Still had a higher wear scar than even the no name dino oils so why would anybody pay big bucks to put it in their engine?

Thanks Steve, this was the kind of response/info I was looking for. Do you have a link to the test or article?
 
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Yes they did CHANGE,,,, a LITTLE LESS back out of a 20$ bill is about all in MY Opinion...

None of this stuff for me NOR do I suggest ITs use...

Redline for me....

Just curious, but why do you prefer Redline over Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50??? Seems like the Mobil 1 is very popular on this forum, so I switched over to it. And unless you tear into the motor several thousand miles down the road, how do you know which oil is protecting better??? Guess I'm kinda naive when it comes to oil. As long as it's changed regularly, level kept full, and its wet and slippery, it should perform its function, but obviously there's a lot more to oil than that these days.
 
Oil usage as in smoking exhaust or lack of compression would be a good indication of the oil doing it's job or not.
 
Why do some on this forum say that synthetic oil is much better protection, but will create more engine noise??? Is this true??? Seems like if it's protecting better, engine noise would be reduced. Wouldn't excessive noise be our bikes way of telling us something is wrong, similar to how pain is the body's way of telling us something is wrong???
 
Just curious, but why do you prefer Redline over Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50??? Seems like the Mobil 1 is very popular on this forum, so I switched over to it. And unless you tear into the motor several thousand miles down the road, how do you know which oil is protecting better??? Guess I'm kinda naive when it comes to oil. As long as it's changed regularly, level kept full, and its wet and slippery, it should perform its function, but obviously there's a lot more to oil than that these days.

The OTHER oil along with Syn3 is a PAO=#4 group

Redline is a #5 group,, Meaning FAR SUPERIOR

READ the article and ANSWERS are there...
to all your questions..

I'm not in a debate with anybody about OIL,, It is what it IS...

I do use Mobil 1 in my high-mileage Jeep (4 cyl)

Don't stir the soup pot is my Motto on this... I guess I've stirred it enough with the Facts I posted..

Now GO Read..

signed....BUBBIE.

I don't go by what others do and say and Go with "Just My Way"
 
The main advantage with synthetic oils it that they have longer molecular chains that don’t “chop up” as quickly as mineral oils. They also don’t get as thick with cold temperature so give you better oil circulation with a cold start-up engine. However, with a fully synthetic oil, if an engine isn’t started for long periods of time, the fully synthetic oils will gravitate to the lowest point in the engine and result in a “dry” start. Mineral oils remain on the internal parts. The fully synthetic oils were originally invented for Jet Engines operating at ultra high altitudes where temperatures would normally be below zero temperatures. Mineral oils would thicken and not provide the proper oil circulation. I suppose that a semi-synthetic oil would be the best of both worlds. Of course you could always add a half bottle of STP to the synthetic oil change to get the same result. That’s what I do. The Lycoming Aircraft Engine company sells their “Lycoming engine oil additive to prevent wear” for four times the price of STP, but it looks, smells, and pours just like STP. I’ve got my suspicions.
 
The main advantage with synthetic oils it that they have longer molecular chains that don’t “chop up” as quickly as mineral oils. They also don’t get as thick with cold temperature so give you better oil circulation with a cold start-up engine. However, with a fully synthetic oil, if an engine isn’t started for long periods of time, the fully synthetic oils will gravitate to the lowest point in the engine and result in a “dry” start. Mineral oils remain on the internal parts. The fully synthetic oils were originally invented for Jet Engines operating at ultra high altitudes where temperatures would normally be below zero temperatures. Mineral oils would thicken and not provide the proper oil circulation. I suppose that a semi-synthetic oil would be the best of both worlds. Of course you could always add a half bottle of STP to the synthetic oil change to get the same result. That’s what I do. The Lycoming Aircraft Engine company sells their “Lycoming engine oil additive to prevent wear” for four times the price of STP, but it looks, smells, and pours just like STP. I’ve got my suspicions.

Speaking of STP, I ran it straight in my 60 FL tranny it leaked pretty bad
 
An OLD OILER working back when STP first came out: Bought an industrial bbl of the stuff.. Using it as it suggested BLEND, it worked Great then wanting to try other Mixes, Used it Straight on some of the bearings he oiled thru-out this then White River Mill (weyerhaeuser and Gone now)

His findings were good as a mix but Burnt out the bearings he applied it to STRAIGHT..

Jack you were lucky IF it worked good in yours... I could see the THICKNESS Need and adding LARD was also good Until it heated up.. Dogs would chase the bikes around Nipping at the heels of the riders.. Hmmm,,, Pork Chops

Kinda like the SMELLs when Diesels burning French Fry Oils ,,,, Makes me Hungry just at the thought..

signed....BUBBIE
 
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