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Turn signal troubleshoot

R_W_B

R_W_B

Senior Member
Here is where I am so far on right turn signal troubleshoot.
Problem:
Recently relocated front turn signals from Handlebars to Front Forks.
Prior to relocation all turn signals worked. Now all work except right front.
Symptoms:
Right running light works, turn signal does not.
When right turn signal switch is activated, (looking at bulb)
the running light filament burns a bit brighter on blink,
the turn signal filament does not burn at all at anytime.
Switched bulbs same problem on same side. (i.e. same problem with bulbs switched)

Pulled wires out of bottom of frame neck, separated the 2 (3 wire AMP) connectors that go to each turn signal. Did an ohm
test and a continuity lite test on all 3 wires in each (both) left and right (3 wire) circuits "that go from connector to the
bulb terminals in bullets". All have about 8 ohms and lite up the tester, no tested evidence of breaks in wires. I further removed the
mesh sheathing and inspected wires and pulled right switch apart, no visible breaks or damage to insulation.
This really disappointed me since this would have been the likely area of damage from my front turn signal relo procedure.
So...
Then switched the right and left AMP connections (right signal then gets feed from left switch and vice versa) the problem
reversed to the left signal, proving that the problem was coming from the right signal feed, which is a harness that I did
not even relocate which adds even more confusion to the issue.

So then I separate both AMP connectors again (the 3 wire ones) and this time I test them "on the feed side" across their own
adjacent terminals, with the below scenarios: (BE = BLUE, BK = BLACK, BN = BROWN, V = VIOLET)
-RIGHT FEED AMP----------LEFT FEED AMP (inserting ---for spaces, since spaces don't always work on fourms)
(CONTINUITY TEST (WITH LITE TESTER)
BE-BK Lites up-------------BE-BK Lites up (same with probes reversed)
BE-BN Lites up-------------BE-V does not (but if I reverse probes it does)
BN-BK (does/does not)-----V-BK does
(I can only guess that diodes or circuit parts are causing the polarity differences?)
--------------------------------------------
(OHM METER TEST)
BE-BK 0.9 ohms-----------BE-BK 0.9 ohms
BE-BN 88.0 ohms----------BE-V infinite ohm(this one lites up with probes reversed)
BN-BK 156/88 ohms-------V-BK 88.0/infinite (probes/reversed)
--------------------------------------------
(VOLT POTENTIAL TEST, IGNITION ON, TURN SIGNAL "NOT" ACTIVATED)
BE-BK 12 volts--------BE-BK 12 volts
BE-BN 12 volts--------BE-V 12 volts
BN-BK 0 volts---------V-BK 0 volts
--------------------------------------------
(VOLT POTENTIAL TEST, IGNITION ON, TURN SIGNAL "WAS" ACTIVATED)
BE-BK 12 volts--------BE-BK 12 volts
BE-BN 12 volts--------BE-V 6.5 volts
BN-BK 0.9 volts--------V-BK 6.5 volts
--------------------------------------------
I'm having a bit of trouble figuring this one out and I'm starting
to get that empty wallet feeling of taking it in to the dealer.
Anybody got any ideas of what else to try?
 
Well I talked to some guys locally and they told me to take all the AMP connectors apart again and inspect the way they are inserted as compared to the left working set. Not the colors since I have those matched up, but they are saying I might have inserted one of the pins upside down. And also to check for green corrosion on the pins in the connector and if that doesn't solve it to take the problem connector totally off and temporarily hard join the two matching pins together with tape and try the signals then.
In any case they told me to keep trying to eliminate all chances of the connectors or wires being the problem since one said that an HD mechanic told him that it "rarely" is a bad TSM module even though the dealer many times will include it in the fix.
So for the time being I am going to keep rigging it around to try and find the bad connection somewhere. I do remember that I dropped the right side bullet housing (with socket in it) from about a foot high off the floor during the relocation proceedure but the bulb since works on the left side when switched and the socket ohm tests out ok so I don't think dropping the bullet did it.
I also disconnected the battery terminals and test probed an ohm test across the disconnected cables and got a very high ohm reading so I know I don't have a direct serious short in the system.
 
Update

Well I popped all my 3 wire AMP connector pins out that go to the right front turn signal (under frame neck). I tried inserting them both ways and they will only go in one way so I did not have them upside down.
So I examined each AMP pin carefully, not a whole lot of difference but did spot some tiny tiny gap in the pin structure itself at the top so I squeezed them togther so they were all tight.
I then stuck them togther without the AMP connectors, just slide them in each other. My turn signals worked perfectly.
So then I put them back in the AMP connectors and tried the turn signals again and they again worked perfectly.
Feeling somewhat elated, I held back my rejoicing till I pushed all the wires back in the frame neck. There is so much wire and connectors for this small space it takes some manuvering and some force. It's kinda like trying to shove a giant octopus into an ice chest.
Anyhow got all the wires shoved back in, tried the turn signals again and they don't work again now, same as before.
So I left it for awhile and starting drinking beer. Tomorrow I guess I will pull it all back out and see if there is some slack I can cut out of the turn signal wires to free up some space and also go buy some more AMP pins and cut and re pin all the wires that are bent going into the connectors.
I live right on a road where everyone rides past going to some great curvy ride roads that go up thru the Green Swamp area. So as I am working away in my Garage I get to listen to everyone riding by, makes it kinda depressing. Course I guess it could be worse I could have given up and took it to the stealer and been out $200 to $300 depending.
Later.......R_W_B
 
Re: Update

Sounds like you have pinched and severed wire...flexure causes the problem to be intermittant. You will have to inspect the insulation very carefully, and will likely find this to be the case. I suppose it is possible one of the pins of a connector or wiring inside may have creepage...but a lot less likely IMO. :(
 
Been following this all day and you are getting close to having the problem resolved have a good nights sleep and all will look better in the morning

Brian
 
Re: Update

R_W_B said:
Course I guess it could be worse I could have given up and took it to the stealer and been out $200 to $300 depending.
Later.......R_W_B
Click to expand...

It could have been a lot worse, you could have been out of beer :lolrolling:cheers
 
Problem Fixed !

Well I found out (and fixed) what the problem was. I pulled all the wires back out again and with turn signal AMPs laying on the rocker cover I turned the ignition on and tried the lights and signals. At first they worked (yea big deal) so just barely touched the AMP connector and the lights started acting up. So I laid some pliers on the wires so the wires themselves would be isolated and just slightly moved the AMP connectors on both the right and left signals and they lights would act up. So I was pretty much sure the problem was in the AMPs.
So I popped all the pins back out of both AMPs (getting pretty good at AMP pin removal) and closely examined them. They "looked" ok but..... The Male AMPs (the ones I popped the pins on to pull out thru the handlebars for signal relo) are the socket pins and the Female AMPs are the insertion pins, so I slide one of the removed male socket pins in over the insertion pin in the undisturbed female AMP. I could immediately tell it did not fit tight and had wiggle. So I examined the situation and on the back side of the socket pins is a tab that you can push in (to bring it closer to the insertion pin contact). So with a very small screwdriver I pushed all the socket tabs in on both my right and left male signal AMPs. I tested each one after pushing the tab in by sliding the socket pin over the other AMP insertion pin making sure they were all tight before I put them back into their respective AMP connectors. Tested the lights and they worked whether I wiggled the harness or not.
So I carefully maneuvered the mass of wires back into the frame taking my time and looking for the best fit scenario for the available space in the rear, the front and the upper sections of the neck wiring compartment. Got them all back in and put the bottom plastic cover back in and tried my lights again.
They all worked, I turned my front end from side to side and they still worked. The problem was that evidently when I was learning how to remove the pins from the AMP connectors (back when I did the signal relo) I shoved my bobby pin tool in the wrong hole on most of them before I figured out my ignorance. This obviously expanded the inner tab on the pin sockets.
Problem is over. Education learned, and hopefully anyone else that has similar problems will search and find this thread.
Later......R_W_B
 
Well done a good nights sleep and a fresh heid has done the trick and you have managed to not only fix your problem you have learnt some good stuff along the way and given us the full details of the process
Thanks

Brian
 
A happy ending and valuable info learned, I would say job well done:s
 
Man, glad I read this. I just purchased the kit from the dealer the other day, along with a few other things. This appears to big a bit of a pain to do since the wires are in the handlebars. I have not looked at the instructions just some manual reading. From the looks of it I am going to need to remove the tank.

Other than what has been written here, any other tips, tricks or info on what to expect when doing this. How much time will I need. The bike is still on the lift from winter and suspect I probably got close to another 4 weekends at least before the weather breaks for a ride, so want to start this soon.
 
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