Breeze3at
Experienced Member
75/140 (gear oil) is a bit stiff for the primary. Most use a non energy conserving rated motor oil (single or multi viscosity), or specific primary oil like HD formula +.
Should I have my oil changed at the local dealership?
- Thread starter GimmeFuel
- Start date
75/140 (gear oil) is a bit stiff for the primary. Most use a non energy conserving rated motor oil (single or multi viscosity), or specific primary oil like HD formula +.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
I cant help but wonder how a Stealer can justify this, but then again they have to make a profit, but not at my expense. I always did all my fluid changes before taking my bikes in for the 1,000 mile check, this would save some dollars. Knowing what I know now and watching how fast they pump out the 1,000 mile checks I am very leery of them any more. Next time you are at the dealer watch how many bikes they have scheduled for this service, and I bet over half of the dealers do not ask if you have your owners manual with so they can stamp it to verify said service JMO
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
This is always a good idea too, Just saying the Dealers do not all follow the Protocol in the manual. I document every thing done to my bikes so far as stapling extra pages in the owners manual, Call me crazy but I have got more than the dealer has originally offered on trade ins because of my proof of records:s
judgeman6970
Member
personally I cant stand the thought of someone else(tech??) working on my bike(or cars for that matter)....Its a "last resort", and would do it myself even if the costs were the same as getting it done at the dealer....imo, the "savings" are the icing on the cake
(and u know its done right)
(and u know its done right)Do your own. I figure since I started doing mine, I have saved about $2500 in labor costs. Buying good oil, it is still about $65 per change but I have the manual and I know if something got done or not and document it on a self-made itemized log. Mobile 1 v-twin, Formula+ & Redline.
Dave:cheers
Dave:cheers