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S & S 106 or SE 103 big bore upgrade kit?

Re: Troubleshooting S & S 106 big bore upgrade

Regarding your O2 sensor eliminators . . .

What i'm wondering is that by shorting(bridging out) the two Sensor wires togethor,the old power wire is effectively going to ground.What is the former ECU end of the wire doing?It is still part of the 30 odd pin harness plug that plugs into the Thundermax.If it is plugged into a power source i would imagine BOTH new O2 sensors;along with Engine temp,Intake air sensor,T.P.S and Map sensor may not work properly.

How's that for a theory?
ps:How are the Easy Start cams going?

EZ start cams have been intermittent. Sometimes it starts ez, sometimes it cranks hard. May be related to the tune, though, so am reserving judgment until we get that straightened out.

According to Randy @ Zipper's, the stock O2 sensor wiring terminates at the ECM connector and in some degree, will provide a false lean input from the O2 eliminators which leads to the conclusion that this is what caused the bike to tune itself richer than needed. Randy stated that they recently discovered this phenomenon on another bike and the programmers are evaluating the situation. We have removed them and now the bike is leaning itself from the 110" map, which is expected. Randy is now analyzing the current learned fuel map after 2 rides and 2 automaps and we will continue to ride the bike tody to see how it evolves.
 
Did not read through the thread completely so plz excuse if already stated.

I would take the $2000, and put on a 30 Tooth Pulley for $350 @ an Indy shop. That will put your bike in the revs needed @ 65 - 70 mph to allow you to get up and go.

Then I would take the remaining money, and buy an open air cleaner, tuner (SEST) with a nice 2 in 1 pipe.

My bike is a 2010 Street Bob with a Stock 96" motor, Thunderheader 2 in 1, SE Air Cleaner. It dyno'd at two different shops with 78 HP and 90 ft/lbs torque. That seems to be above the stock 103" motor HD is giving now.

The thing is you will not have to open the motor for these upgrades. Pipes and Cleaner can be done at home for $700.00 or less, Tuner if you look for $350.00, and the 30 Tooth Pulley I would let an Indy handle. I was quoted $350 with all gaskets, pulley, and new oil for the primary. No, motor work needed, and your bike should get up and go hard without opening up the engine. Opening the primary, yes, but that isn't at all the same as the engine.

Just something to think about.
 
Did not read through the thread completely so plz excuse if already stated.

I would take the $2000, and put on a 30 Tooth Pulley for $350 @ an Indy shop. That will put your bike in the revs needed @ 65 - 70 mph to allow you to get up and go.

Then I would take the remaining money, and buy an open air cleaner, tuner (SEST) with a nice 2 in 1 pipe.

My bike is a 2010 Street Bob with a Stock 96" motor, Thunderheader 2 in 1, SE Air Cleaner. It dyno'd at two different shops with 78 HP and 90 ft/lbs torque. That seems to be above the stock 103" motor HD is giving now.

The thing is you will not have to open the motor for these upgrades. Pipes and Cleaner can be done at home for $700.00 or less, Tuner if you look for $350.00, and the 30 Tooth Pulley I would let an Indy handle. I was quoted $350 with all gaskets, pulley, and new oil for the primary. No, motor work needed, and your bike should get up and go hard without opening up the engine. Opening the primary, yes, but that isn't at all the same as the engine.

Just something to think about.

Thanks, but I am past this point now; just fyi, the 30 tooth pulley on a 2008 Road King Classic, like mine, won't fit without changing the belt ...so it ends up costing a bit more.....and when you add labor for a professional installation, it more than doubles. As it happens, the engine upgrade I did made the gear ratio work as is....
 
Pipes and A/C $700 or less(DIY)
Tuner $350 (DIY)
Belt $180
Pulley and labor $350

Total $1480 *(belt labor no extra cost), You have to remove the belt to put the new pulley on anyway)*
That leaves $520 for a good dyno run to tune the A/C and Pipe. Costing a grand total of the expected $2000.00, and not a days worth of trial and error dealing with a map that isn't right for you build.
Don't see how engine work could change gear ratio. Only gears change gear ratio.

Well hope you get that tune going good. I am sure you will have a nice whip again when you get it going 100%.

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For his riding style and motor. I would have went with a 204 Cam if I wanted engine work. Would have put the power right where he needed.

I also would have done the other work I mentioned before motor work, and or added the SE 204s to that list. The SEST has a map for the 96" motor with stock intake using the SE 204s. Add the Pipe, A/C, Pulley, and you are at 100/100 easy with a very reliable build and using stock compression. Which would be easy on your starter. For $20 throw in a .030 gasket to up it .5 to a 9.7:1 compression. Works good without releases, and still able to use premium gas.

You will get 50 mpg running HWY with a 100/100 motor. Takes all of 8 hours to perform the entire change. Gear ratio right for the hills and roll on @ 65 mph.

This is all hind sight. The build is done. We can only wish that it all works out, but I see another $500 to get the bike tuned at the least.


.
 
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Pipes and A/C $700 or less(DIY)
Tuner $350 (DIY)
Belt $180
Pulley and labor $350

Total $1480 *(belt labor no extra cost), You have to remove the belt to put the new pulley on anyway)*
That leaves $520 for a good dyno run to tune the A/C and Pipe. Costing a grand total of the expected $2000.00, and not a days worth of trial and error dealing with a map that isn't right for you build.
Don't see how engine work could change gear ratio. Only gears change gear ratio.

Well hope you get that tune going good. I am sure you will have a nice whip again when you get it going 100%.

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For his riding style and motor. I would have went with a 204 Cam if I wanted engine work. Would have put the power right where he needed.

I also would have done the other work I mentioned before motor work, and or added the SE 204s to that list. The SEST has a map for the 96" motor with stock intake using the SE 204s. Add the Pipe, A/C, Pulley, and you are at 100/100 easy with a very reliable build and using stock compression. Which would be easy on your starter. For $20 throw in a .030 gasket to up it .5 to a 9.7:1 compression. Works good without releases, and still able to use premium gas.

You will get 50 mpg running HWY with a 100/100 motor. Takes all of 8 hours to perform the entire change. Gear ratio right for the hills and roll on @ 65 mph.

This is all hind sight. The build is done. We can only wish that it all works out, but I see another $500 to get the bike tuned at the least.


.

I think this is right. This S &S 106 with ez start 551 cam build, which was advertised as a simple bolt in, press the button and go process, has turned into a bit of a fiasco. I may end up with a very nice running engine, but I think I could have produced the same outcome much more efficiently and at less cost by following the guidelines proposed by editbrain (though I think the SE 255 cam might be a better choice than the 204...if the compression doesn't change).

Live and learn.

Latest installement to this saga is as follows: With the O2 eliminators removed, we are still not 100% satisifed with the way the bike is running....it is not anything near as bad as before but not as good as it could/should be. It is only at partial throttle (ie. highway cruising rpm) that we feel some hesitation. The bike runs excellent everywhere else. The autotune is telling us that it has reached optimum fuel adjustment based on the target AFR. The builder is now sending a copy of the latest map to Zipper's for further evaluation. We may take the bike there for evaluation; they would most likely use the dyno to recreate the problem areas and develop some fuel and ignition tuning as needed or to simply uncover another issue that has eluded us.

Of course, the whole point of the TMAX autotune is that you don't need a dyno. Thundermax makes this claim on their web site, here: Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) and Performance Parts for Harley Davidson and VTwin Motorcycles

"While it is true that a base map is required, we have an ever-growing library of base maps including many engine and exhaust combinations. These highly refined maps lower operating temperatures, eliminate exhaust popping between shifts and deceleration, and improve throttle response and performance. We develop the maps on a state-of-the-art eddy-current dyno using lab-type instrumentation. Should any adjustments be required, the easy to use SmartLink software supplied with our system allows adjustments of 20% air/fuel and 10 degrees ignition to the supplied base map. Things like idle adjustment, rpm limit, speedometer calibration, and others are simple click-and-enter affairs. Tuning can be performed 'live' (engine running) along with live monitoring of 44 engine and system vitals viewed as on- screen gauges. Future upgrades require the simple installation of a new map; about a 2 minute process!

The ThunderMax is supplied with Basic User software, comprehensive instructions and communication cable. It carries a 3 year replacement warranty.
INCREASE HORSEPOWER, TORQUE, AND FUEL ECONOMY
NO MAPPING REQUIRED
NO DYNO REQUIRED [emphasis added]...."

So far, in this case, it isn't working out that way.

I intend to have it working or removed by Monday.

Will keep you posted
 
Sage Counsel, the reason I mentioned the SE 204 over the SE 255 is because you mentioned your "self imposed" Red Line of 4200ish RPM. The SE 204 will start early around 1800 and go to around 4000/4500. You still have good power there, but with your riding style I think that would be a good choice.
The SE 255 start later around 2500 to 5500 rpm then taper off. I think you will not get 100% usage of your SE 255 cam. Again I am just throwing out advice.

The SE 204 cam, to me, is a great choice for common street and touring riders. I don't like to go over 115 mph on my Harley. Some do, and the SE 255 will be good for them. I like to have power, like you, at around 65 mph. I want to be able to roll on in 6th, and get a nice jump. This is what the SE 204 was created for. Good early/mid torque, and getting a 96" to pull 1 hp and 1 ft lbs per cubic inch isn't hard with a good pipe, air cleaner and SE 204 cams. I can say that you will be @ 100/100 with that setup. Put the 30 Tooth pulley on this bike, and you will be doing wheelies at 45 mph. Easy. :)
 
I think this is right. This S &S 106 with ez start 551 cam build, which was advertised as a simple bolt in, press the button and go process, has turned into a bit of a fiasco. I may end up with a very nice running engine, but I think I could have produced the same outcome much more efficiently and at less cost by following the guidelines proposed by editbrain (though I think the SE 255 cam might be a better choice than the 204...if the compression doesn't change).

Live and learn.

Latest installement to this saga is as follows: With the O2 eliminators removed, we are still not 100% satisifed with the way the bike is running....it is not anything near as bad as before but not as good as it could/should be. It is only at partial throttle (ie. highway cruising rpm) that we feel some hesitation. The bike runs excellent everywhere else. The autotune is telling us that it has reached optimum fuel adjustment based on the target AFR. The builder is now sending a copy of the latest map to Zipper's for further evaluation. We may take the bike there for evaluation; they would most likely use the dyno to recreate the problem areas and develop some fuel and ignition tuning as needed or to simply uncover another issue that has eluded us.

Of course, the whole point of the TMAX autotune is that you don't need a dyno. Thundermax makes this claim on their web site, here: Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) and Performance Parts for Harley Davidson and VTwin Motorcycles

"While it is true that a base map is required, we have an ever-growing library of base maps including many engine and exhaust combinations. These highly refined maps lower operating temperatures, eliminate exhaust popping between shifts and deceleration, and improve throttle response and performance. We develop the maps on a state-of-the-art eddy-current dyno using lab-type instrumentation. Should any adjustments be required, the easy to use SmartLink software supplied with our system allows adjustments of 20% air/fuel and 10 degrees ignition to the supplied base map. Things like idle adjustment, rpm limit, speedometer calibration, and others are simple click-and-enter affairs. Tuning can be performed 'live' (engine running) along with live monitoring of 44 engine and system vitals viewed as on- screen gauges. Future upgrades require the simple installation of a new map; about a 2 minute process!

The ThunderMax is supplied with Basic User software, comprehensive instructions and communication cable. It carries a 3 year replacement warranty.
INCREASE HORSEPOWER, TORQUE, AND FUEL ECONOMY
NO MAPPING REQUIRED
NO DYNO REQUIRED [emphasis added]...."

So far, in this case, it isn't working out that way.

I intend to have it working or removed by Monday.

Will keep you posted

Hey so whats the story Jerry? Who did the install? Someone down here at the beach or up in Annapolis? I suspect it is the tuning that is causing all your grief. Do you hear them (the cams) click? I have not a bad word to say about the 551's at all. The torque is all there. Wait, the only bad word is that I speed alot more.... ;0) Theres a guy in Williamsburg who swears up and down about the 583's. But those are little higher in the revs than I get into typically. So whats happening?????

Well,the deed's SORTA done!Unable to catch up with "standard" boy,i had over 20 runs against the Fatboy fitted with 583 Easy Start cams.If you've seen the Dyno charts for these on 'S&S's website,you'd see how very similiar they are;except the 551's have a dip about 3000rpm and start to rise again somewhere about 3300rpm.Whereas the 583's stay pretty constant from 2400 through to maybe 4500 rpm.

You'd also recall how that pesky brother would not shut up extolling the virtues of 583 cams.Well,he has now!I'm almost speechless.

We ran the bikes against each other from 3rd,4th,5th and 6th gears.We changed bikes and repeated same speeds against same rpm's.The bikes ran consistently equal.Every time.Same outcome when i rode his bike and he mine.The FLSTF would pull my FLSTN SLIGHTLY at around 3300 rpm(the torque dip);but when i rode his bike and being 10 or so kgs heavier,the bikes stayed even until mine hit my self imposed rev limiter of 4256 rpm.

So this time,i'm the one doing the talking.Fantastic improvement over stock,fantastic improvement in rideability.I stand by what i said before;i reckon this thing in 4th gear will pull the standard FLSTF in 3rd gear.

With this cam kit,you get superior low down and mid range torque,less mechanical effort with starting AND Torrington bearings to replace the stock H-D ones.To me,it seems like a win-win upgrade.I could have easily fitted the 583 cams and been ecstatic like my brother,but the 551's do the same job,only they start earlier and finish earlier.As a rider who (until today)has never ventured over 3500 rpm,they suit me perfectly.Highly recommended.Either set.

When i catch up with 'Bimbo'-standard boy-and shut him down,i'll post those results.

This is great! Lots of FUN FACTOR!
 
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Hey so whats the story Jerry? So whats happening?????

Forgive me if i'm obtuse,but i'm taking it that you and Sage Counsel are acquainted?


If so,has he resolved his problem?As you put it;"What's happening?"

I'm very interested in his issues and would love to hear his final outcomes.

Thanks.Regards.
 
I thought I would send a final note to close out the story.

I started this thread with an inquiry.

I explained that I had a 2008 Road King Classic (96 ci) with 42,000 miles (bought new in April 2008, I am only owner and rider); with Rinehart true duals, a stage 1 ac (Arlen Ness Big Sucker), and a power commander III, lowered at the rear with the HD lowering kit.

I wanted to hear opinions on whether to go with the S & S 106ci kit with EZ start cams (either 551 or or 583) or the Harley Davidson 103 upgrade with SE 255 cams.

I wanted improved low to midrange acceleration and power ; I wanted the bike to jump when I twist the throttle in 6th gear when going 70 to 75 mph, so I could accelerate quickly another 10 mph or so. I explained that I generally ride 1 up with a light load; usually ride on the highway at highway speeds above 60 mph, at sea level, in non-mountainous terrain (though I want hill climbing power if possible).

I wanted to use stock heads, at this point, and limit use of any other parts not included in these kits, if possible.

I asked:

Does the 106 ci kit provide enough additional torque and hp (and reliability) where I ride to be worth the extra money? To put it another way, is it better, or about the same?

Any hidden disasters in either?

What change should I expect in gas mileage for each: better, worse or no significant change?

Any thoughts on the cam choice: S & S EZ start 551 or 583? HD 255 or 253 or 254E?

Here are my conclusions:

I chose the S & S 106 kit, with push rods and lifters, the S & S EZ start 551 cams, and added a Variable Pressure Clutch (VPC). I think this was the better choice. The HD 103 kit does not include push rods and lifters - you must buy those in addition, if you need them; you need them if you have any miles on the original engine. You also need compression releases with the 103 kit, unless you do head work to lower the compression, and I didn't want to do any head work. The HD kit also includes a heavy duty clutch spring, and so a harder clutch pull. The VPC means the clutch pulls easily and well without a new heavy duty spring.

Once I got the tuning problems solved, as related in earlier posts (it was detuning -- I am told that TMAX has been exhibiting this problem recently with larger engines), the results have been all I hoped for and more. Zippers took the bike after the builder had exhausted all resources and ideas to make it work right, and kept it for about 9 work days. I am told that it was dynoed and tuned there, and that they created a map, which is now available for download should someone else choose this build ( S & S 106 ci big bore with S & S 551 EZ start cams and a D & D Fat Cat 2 into 1, louvered) and want a TMAX autotune.

The EZ start cams now start easily and well with no strain, hot or cold, so no compression releases needed with this build.

The build produced 93 hp and 112 ft/lbs torque with a power commander III (and D & D fatcat 2 into 1 exhaust). The torque curve starts early and is long and broad, through 4500 rpms. It runs at least as well, and I think perhaps even more strongly, with the Thundermax autotune for throttle by wire, now that it is working.

I have put about 1000 miles on the bike since Zippers got it working right. The bike has terrific power just where I wanted it. It is smooth and strong in every gear and at every rpm I ask for. It accelerates very quickly - jumps - with only a small thottle input. This means that on ramps onto the highway, I get up to and beyond 65 mph FAST; and when I want to pass, no downshift - just twist and go. The bikes rolls on from 65 to 95 in a heartbeat or two. Previously, unmodified, I would twist the throttle to the stop, the bike would get louder, and start to speed up..........and get there eventually. Now, the acceleration is instant. The bike is magical to ride. I have never yet opened the throttle all the way; gets to 95 with a small twist, arm pulling, seat squashing acceleration, so use your imagination.

The gas mileage has improved steadily as the TMAX has autotuned, and is now 40 mpg or so, on a typical 80 mile commuting round trip that takes me from subdivision to highway through the city and back again.

So I recommend the S & S 106 kit with the S &S EZ start 551 cams, if you want results like mine; costs about the same as the HD 103 kit once you add in the push rods lifters, etc. Similar cams are the HD 255 and the Andrews 48H, but you may need compression releases if you choose those cams.

I recommend the 2 into 1 exhaust, and not the true dual, if you want to maximize torque at the low to mid range, which is where most of us ride, on the touring bikes. Reasons for this are explained in detail earlier in the thread.

Gas mileage is at least as good as before the engine upgrade, and can be better, depending on tuner and tuning. But in any event, not worse.

I got the super starting power, awesome hill climbing power, and torque to burn at highway speed, all that I was looking for and more.

The Thundermax has turned out well, and the problems I experienced and discussed in this thread, may now be resolved, should you choose this tuner. Zippers stood behind their product and made it work as claimed; I am VERY happy with it now and wouldn't change it......but if you read through this thread you know how bumpy the road was to get to where I am now...so caveat emptor.

To all who have contributed their expertise, advise, sage counsel, opinions, and humor: Thank you.

And so this is it: not the end, nor even the beginning of the end, but the end of the beginning.

See you on the road.
 
True Duals vs. 2 into 1

Not sure I provided this info previously on this thread, so FYI;

You all gave me some very useful advice on cams. It came down, for me, to the S & S 551 in their 106 kit, or the SE 255 in the HD SE 103 kit. I decided against the HD 204 cam because I want a torque cam; I never ride close to the rev limits and the 204 seems to me to be more of a mid range cam.

"R. Bingam," provided a couple of instructive dyno charts, showing that the Andrews 48H is a better torque cam than the HD 255....but the Andrews is not in the kit...so, again, cost considerations influence my decision. If cost wasn't an issue, I would use the Andrews 48.

This same post also shows the significant benefits of the 2 into 1 exhaust over true duals if you want a flat torque curve that comes in early and hangs on until 4500 rpm or so. Pasted in here:

Here is a dyno chart caparison of a stock TC96 vs one with a good tune and a 2 into 1 exhaust.

2009SGACDDFACCATCONCENTRICBAFFLETTSTUNERVSSTOCK.jpg



Here is a dyno chart comparing the Andrews 48 (here called the express because it was a prototype) vs. the SE255

09SGX1EXPRESSDOHERTYACTTSDDFATCATQBBAFFLE.jpg



These podcasts on youtube from Revolution performance explain why the 2 into 1 exhaust is a better choice for a torque producing low to midrange build than would be true duals:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwjpwC0ZM44


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfSOthdE6lU


This link shows a dyno chart well illustrating the points made in the youtube podcasts:

tn516s3.jpg


As some of you have pointed out, the key is the combination, and the tune.
 
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