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Primary Oil Leak

Thanks what are these tools called ?(You will also need a special tool to remove and refit the inner bearing race from the mainshaft and a special tool for the front pulley nut)

cheers
 
Mainshaft bearing race removal and installation tool
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDIQFjAFahUKEwjwwsKopsrIAhWEvxQKHfaGAek&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.harley-davidson.com%2Fapp-content%2Fservice%2Fisheets%2F-J04937.PDF&usg=AFQjCNFGtRGadwN-uK7SHsAqnMeHGFCzhg
Harley pulley nut tool
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CE4QFjAIahUKEwjLwN35psrIAhWDXBQKHZZ6DGE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.harley-davidson.com%2Fapp-content%2Fservice%2Fisheets%2F-J04939.PDF&usg=AFQjCNFip7mRaGwb1AVpVeaV1BrTo2cERg

Many special tools will have the name of the task as the tool name unless it is a tool that has many uses but is needed for that operation as in bi directional torque wrench

Brian

P.S. If you are going to use a special tool many times then buying a quality tool is worthwhile if however you will use it once or twice in your lifetime perhaps a low cost alternative is worth considering
 
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You will also need a special tool to remove and refit the inner bearing race from the mainshaft and a special tool for the front pulley nut
Threaded bar and some large washers along with suitable sized sockets can be used to remove and refit the inner primary bearing
So I can avoid buying the special tool for the inner bearing race . But what about the special tool for the front pulley nut? Can I get away without buying it?
On a different note, when I open up the throtle Its like the bike says no thanks Im not reving any higher. As long as I gradualy deliver the fuel it will increase in speed but if I open it up a little to fast there is no response. Am I right in thinking its the carby? and am I looking at doing a rebuild with a kit?
Thanks again and all the best :)
 
Sockets and threaded bar will work for the bearing outer race fitted to the inner primary housing
you will still need the tool for the inner race and if you need to remove the front pulley you will need that special tool also
From your description of the acceleration issue i would first suspect that the accelerator pump diagphram has a leak

Brian
 
So I can avoid buying the special tool for the inner bearing race . But what about the special tool for the front pulley nut? Can I get away without buying it?
On a different note, when I open up the throtle Its like the bike says no thanks Im not reving any higher. As long as I gradualy deliver the fuel it will increase in speed but if I open it up a little to fast there is no response. Am I right in thinking its the carby? and am I looking at doing a rebuild with a kit?
Thanks again and all the best :)

You can avoid buying the tool to R/R the IPB race. You can use a Dremel tool to cut a notch in the race being careful not to cut too deep and nick the main shaft. Insert a chisel into the notch and strike it with a hammer; the race will split and you can pull it off with your fingers. You can use some SCH 40 PVC, washers and the clutch hub nut to push the new race onto the main shaft. Another trick you can use is to pick up some dry ice at the local grocer and tape it to the main shaft. After about 20-30 minutes, heat up the race with a MAPP gas torch and the race will drop on. Use a long feeler gauge to set 125" gap between the race and the main shaft 5th gear seal. The race will tighten up quick when the heat transfer starts so you want it in the right place quick.

You can get by without the trans pulley locking tool with a little extra work if so inclined. Remove the trans top cover and shift drum, engage any two gears and the trans is locked. When your leak repair is completed, unlock the two gears, reinstall the shift drum and top cover.

You will need the special socket to R/R the trans pulley. Georges's Garage is probably the cheapest. Or, perhaps a forum member has the tools and would ship them to you if you paid shipping both ways??
 

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After reading several articles here I determined it was the inner primary cover seal that was leaking. I removed the inner cover and noticed the seal was installed incorrectly. The "oil side" of the seal was facing the sprocket which is the dry side. I installed a new seal 2 years ago and it is still dry.
 
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