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Primary Lube Poll

Primary Oil Poll

  • Syn 3

    Votes: 133 11.2%
  • Formula +

    Votes: 309 26.0%
  • Old style HD primary oil #99887-84

    Votes: 59 5.0%
  • Amsoil

    Votes: 229 19.3%
  • Bel Ray

    Votes: 15 1.3%
  • Redline

    Votes: 100 8.4%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 175 14.7%
  • ATF

    Votes: 47 4.0%
  • Doesn't Matter

    Votes: 22 1.9%
  • OTHER (Please specify)

    Votes: 98 8.3%

  • Total voters
    1,187
I dont see anything that says syn on the jug. All it says is ROTELLA T Triple protection. meets API CJ4,CI4PLUS,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF/SM,SL,SJ. Dont really know what all that means as far as wet clutches go, just didnt want this to go to waste. the jug itself is white with a blue label, well mostly blue anyway.

If it doesn't say synthetic and is in a white jug with blue label, it is the dino oil and should be ok for the primary.
But, the energy conserving oils includes 10w40 oils with SM ratings. Look at the API seal on the back and if it is energy conserving, it should say so.
As reported by Dyno above, Rotella T is a highly respected oil in the trucking community.
White jug for the dino and blue for the synthetic.

I've just been through the Shell site and nowhere in regards to Rotella T could I find energy conserving.

Plus, the white jug 15w-40 is the dino oil. The blue jug contains the 5w-40 synthetic.
It looks like you have the dino oil and should be fine.
 
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Probably just stupid, but, I did what Harley recommended and had mine changed to SYN3 on the first service.:bigsmiley30:
 
Probably just stupid, but, I did what Harley recommended and had mine changed to SYN3 on the first service.:bigsmiley30:

Not stupid, just uninformed at the moment.
I did what you did with the new Dyna, but I changed to other lubes very shortly.
Look in the oil section and find what people here say.
Draw your own conclusions. Lots of info here to help you.
 
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The Motorcycle syns do not actually reduce friction alot compared to dino in some cases. In order for that syn to work in your wet clutch (even if you choose not to use it there) it has to have a high coefficient of friction to facilitate clutch "hook-up". This was originally designed for the metric bike which had no choice because the wet clutch was integrated. People saw temp decreases(because of the viscosity stability) and thought it was the best for their engine. Friction Is an engines worst enemy. I don't believe alot of the problems with the twin cam are all poor engineering. Viscosity is not sufficient lubrication. I use hogsnot 20w-50 "engine only" dino oil in my engine, change it at 2500 or 3000. My temp is as low as it was with syn and my top end is quieter. I then use a synthetic in the primary and do a primary change to every 2 oil changes. My oil actually treats my engine for friction and has mor anti wear additives than specified by API.
I'll be waiting for you at the finish line.

I think you are missing the most important thing of all with the synthetic oils. Your choice of oil will break down rather fast should you get caught in stop and go where as the synthetics will provide far superior protection than what you are using under the same circumstances. Apples to oranges here. 250* and higher is not uncommon at all when slow moving or stop and go traffic is the problem.
I don't know who told you Syn oils don't reduce friction either, but they should rethink that theory.

 
Being new to this HD scene I wanted to get the skinny on what to use in my bike. I use Amsoil in my vehicles and my dirtbikes and now after reading the test results of the oils for HD I will be using Amsoil in my HD too. If you go to their website you can find the test results comparing around 15 different brands.
 
Probably the worst thing you can do on any Harley forum is to start s discussion about oil. :small3d015:
I think you'd be better off starting one on politics or religion....you'd get fewer differing opinions! :swoon
 
I went with Royal Purple 20W50 in the Primary Case, I may be changing it to a 10W40 Conventional Oil after what I read about the Synthetic Blends with the Friction Modifiers in the Oil. I do not need any Clutch Slippage on a New Bike! I may do that when I change out the Derby Cover, it got scratched up trying to get the Torx Screws Loose but that is another Story! Just done the 1000 Mile Service and She runs great, No Problems so Far!

2009 Road Glide - Red Sunglo
 
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