Oil pressure light on after engine re-assembly
- Thread starter Mel Neff
- Start date
tourbox
Senior Member
For RibEye--No not a stupid question. To do that you would have to disconnect them from the oil tank under the tranny. But they may be different lengths or preformed shapes.
Mel Neff;As for alignment the way I do it is as follows; remove both the pinion gear and the oil pump drive gear off of the pinion shaft so they are not in contact with the drive gear of the pump. You can not turn the pump shaft with those in place. Assemble the pump completely and torque to specs. I reach in, the nose cone, and turn the pump gear by hand SLOWLY and check for any binding. I will rotate the pump 4-5 revolutions in each direction. You may feel a little resistance from the pre-lube(oil) of the pump. This will be an even resistance. If it is binding you will notice it only 1 or 2 places of the rotations. If you feel the binding or rough spot then loosen the 6 allens and shift the pump body a little one way or the other. Re torque the pump and check again. Keep doing this until you have no binding. I've had to do this 5-6 times on some bikes, sometimes I'm lucky and get it the 1st. try. Once it is free,no binding,then reassemble your nose cone.
The reason this is done is because if there is binding it can shear 1 of the 3 wood drift keys or all 3. It may happen at start up or miles down the road. Depends on how much they were in a bind.
With the gauge and no oil in the line I would assume the switch good also.
Oil is pumped thru the lifters up thru the push rods to lube the rocker arms and valve springs etc.
tourbox
Mel Neff;As for alignment the way I do it is as follows; remove both the pinion gear and the oil pump drive gear off of the pinion shaft so they are not in contact with the drive gear of the pump. You can not turn the pump shaft with those in place. Assemble the pump completely and torque to specs. I reach in, the nose cone, and turn the pump gear by hand SLOWLY and check for any binding. I will rotate the pump 4-5 revolutions in each direction. You may feel a little resistance from the pre-lube(oil) of the pump. This will be an even resistance. If it is binding you will notice it only 1 or 2 places of the rotations. If you feel the binding or rough spot then loosen the 6 allens and shift the pump body a little one way or the other. Re torque the pump and check again. Keep doing this until you have no binding. I've had to do this 5-6 times on some bikes, sometimes I'm lucky and get it the 1st. try. Once it is free,no binding,then reassemble your nose cone.
The reason this is done is because if there is binding it can shear 1 of the 3 wood drift keys or all 3. It may happen at start up or miles down the road. Depends on how much they were in a bind.
With the gauge and no oil in the line I would assume the switch good also.
Oil is pumped thru the lifters up thru the push rods to lube the rocker arms and valve springs etc.
tourbox
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
A bad tappet will not pump up, you can loose pressure here, I dunno or remember but Shovels had to have tappet oil holes lined up, Evos I do not remember. The oil pump feeds thru the tappets past the over head tappet screen and up the push tubes, if you have no oil @ the tappet screen you have a problem in the pump or mis alignment with the pinion gear and or breather gear JMO
tourbox
Senior Member
You are correct Jack on the Shovels. The holes both point to the center of the lifter blocks. On EVO's & TC's it does not matter. I was under the impression that the oil first went to the tappet screen to filter it better then to the tappet, then up the push rod tube. I could be wrong though.
tourbox
tourbox
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Harley Davidson Forums You are correct about the oil flow, seems to me tho 1 bad tappet could foul up the pressure, I have seen this on shovels, they oil pretty close to the same:s
tourbox
Senior Member
May drop the pressure some but would be a Noisy lifter for sure. There would still be pressure from the pump though pushing oil thru the engine. Right now he's not getting oil to the tappets yet. Unless he got it fixed and hasn't had time to post back. Hopefully he is out riding it and enjoying the fix.
tourbox
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Wonder what gaskets he used? HMMMMM have seen this problem before on Evo motors as well
No, not fixed yet. Contemplating what to do next.
Did you ckeck the tappet blocks ID vs. the lifters OD? Just .0005 over spec and they can lose presseure.
Also did you check the tappet block gaskets against the block and the motor to make sure the oil holes lined up and did you use the alignment pins when you installed the tappet blocks?
Just wondering if there is an obstruction some where?
When I did my '92, I took the fill plug out of the oil tank and stuffed a rag around an air hose and used about 10lbs. air pressure to force oil through the system.
Also did you check the tappet block gaskets against the block and the motor to make sure the oil holes lined up and did you use the alignment pins when you installed the tappet blocks?
Just wondering if there is an obstruction some where?
When I did my '92, I took the fill plug out of the oil tank and stuffed a rag around an air hose and used about 10lbs. air pressure to force oil through the system.