Hoople
Account Removed
It's not Fuel injected.
Not immediately accelerating
- Thread starter Craig121212
- Start date
It's not Fuel injected.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Glider has the RIGHT approach to the problem..
On My 2006 sport 1200R, the jetting needed changing from AZ to here in Wa. and back again when down there,, Elevation change from 4400 feet in Az. to a few hundred above sea level here in Wa.... when up here I need to change out the main jet by .005 for a good running bike.. I have python 3's and arlen Big Sucker air.. I too need time for a WARM-UP
I find that I tend to go rich enough on the carb-jetting so I don't have to run it any longer than 1.5 minutes with the Star screw holding it at 1200 RPM and enricher (not a Choke) fully out at start,, Then SLOWLY pushing to 1/2 to 1/4 the OFF .
Most of 30 seconds out fully and pushed back into the 1/2,1/4 position then I slowly push it in to OFF and allow it to warm for another minute at 1200 rpm,,,, BEFORE I ride it.(.) Never need to ride with it out if warmed my way,,, and set-up properly.
My bike takes IT'S Own Time to Warm up.. Just the nature of the Carbed Sporty Bike.. being a 1200 R OR an 883 which I've owned,No difference,,,, Needs to warm-up before they perform well...
I usually Don't "get on" my bike throttle until about 10/20 minutes after starting ride. By then all the motor and tranny lube have warmed enough.
One way I usually tell the richness or LACK Of is simply by Looking at the plugs and the exhaust ends... A tinge of tan-white on the plug is Good for my style but sooty Black is Too rich. Smooth Black inside the exhaust but Not LOOSE sooty black is what I look for.
I have found that I don't need to take Off the carb to change out the jets.(.) I DO replace the Phillips headed Screws (always seem to strip one out) with same length Allen Headed screws on the carb bowl and that makes a world of difference when changing out the jets. The Bowl goes Off and On a lot easier and proper light torque with-out stripping the phillips heads.
Careful to get the "fuel rod"(squirter) back into the proper position!!!!! easy to leave out beside the hole.
Also the Plug removed that covers the Idle Adjustment Screw on the bottom of carb, so the final IDLE adjustment can be done for a SMooooooooth running engine..
Two turns out and if a lot More or Less is needed here, the Idle size jet needs to be replaced with the right sized one. (.042 to .048 to .050) and on my modified 883 I used a .044 and a .048 on my 1200R in Wa..
This again is true BIGGER is not always Better.. You MUST have the right sized Jets to do the Proper fuel-mix.
signed....BUBBIE
On My 2006 sport 1200R, the jetting needed changing from AZ to here in Wa. and back again when down there,, Elevation change from 4400 feet in Az. to a few hundred above sea level here in Wa.... when up here I need to change out the main jet by .005 for a good running bike.. I have python 3's and arlen Big Sucker air.. I too need time for a WARM-UP
I find that I tend to go rich enough on the carb-jetting so I don't have to run it any longer than 1.5 minutes with the Star screw holding it at 1200 RPM and enricher (not a Choke) fully out at start,, Then SLOWLY pushing to 1/2 to 1/4 the OFF .
Most of 30 seconds out fully and pushed back into the 1/2,1/4 position then I slowly push it in to OFF and allow it to warm for another minute at 1200 rpm,,,, BEFORE I ride it.(.) Never need to ride with it out if warmed my way,,, and set-up properly.
My bike takes IT'S Own Time to Warm up.. Just the nature of the Carbed Sporty Bike.. being a 1200 R OR an 883 which I've owned,No difference,,,, Needs to warm-up before they perform well...
I usually Don't "get on" my bike throttle until about 10/20 minutes after starting ride. By then all the motor and tranny lube have warmed enough.
One way I usually tell the richness or LACK Of is simply by Looking at the plugs and the exhaust ends... A tinge of tan-white on the plug is Good for my style but sooty Black is Too rich. Smooth Black inside the exhaust but Not LOOSE sooty black is what I look for.
I have found that I don't need to take Off the carb to change out the jets.(.) I DO replace the Phillips headed Screws (always seem to strip one out) with same length Allen Headed screws on the carb bowl and that makes a world of difference when changing out the jets. The Bowl goes Off and On a lot easier and proper light torque with-out stripping the phillips heads.
Careful to get the "fuel rod"(squirter) back into the proper position!!!!! easy to leave out beside the hole.
Also the Plug removed that covers the Idle Adjustment Screw on the bottom of carb, so the final IDLE adjustment can be done for a SMooooooooth running engine..
Two turns out and if a lot More or Less is needed here, the Idle size jet needs to be replaced with the right sized one. (.042 to .048 to .050) and on my modified 883 I used a .044 and a .048 on my 1200R in Wa..
This again is true BIGGER is not always Better.. You MUST have the right sized Jets to do the Proper fuel-mix.
signed....BUBBIE
Sounds like previous owner did not get the carburetion jetted properly or installed Dynojet kit and drilled out the emulsion tube...probably will never get right until he gets new STOCK one and does Glider's recommendation for jetting, putting washers under the CV needle, 2 1/2 turns on the mixture screw and your done. 2006 is pretty young to be running into dirt or debris in the carb, but cleaning, verify accelerator pump is ok, check float bowl contents, inlet filter and vacuum/fuel petcock would also be advisable. Lots of stuff to check, but not very expensive (rebuild kit for HD Keihein carb is only $35).
Craig121212
Member
Thanks for all the help.