free website stats program Missing air cover seal | Page 3 | Harley Davidson Forums

Missing air cover seal

STEVE07 said:
You may have the K & N backing plate. Look at the link below and tell us which kit # is on your bike

KN RK Series Air Intake Systems for Harley Davidson Motorcycles
Click to expand...

The K&N filter I have is the HD-1508. It's meant to be a replacement for the stock filter and drop right into the existing black plastic backplate/box. Unfortunately, its not the filter that fits any of K&N's high flow kits. Looks like to me they simply took the backplate/box off and mounted the stock design filter right to the throttle body, then added new pipes and a fuelpak to adjust the mix ratio. It seems to work, but without the backplate, I guess it could fail somehow... I don't know... confused...
 
I have just read about it on the K & N site. Definitely meant to be used with the stock backing plate. I will agree with the others here. Get yourself a backing plate. You are putting too much stress on the TB and you are going to end up with intake leaks. I would go with an HD stage 1 assembly, but if you don't want to go to that expense I can give you a stock air box N/C
 
atm33 said:
At least I know what I'm dealing with now. When I first started this thread earlier today, I thought I just needed a rubber seal. Now I know I have a stage 1 upgrade, even though whoever did it decided to skip the backplate... I can probably get a few bucks back for my current K&N filter on Ebay and then get a used backplate/filter. Sorry for all the questions, and thanks as always for the great advice.
Click to expand...

Nuthin to be sorry about, this is how we all learn
Just when ya think ya saw it all, some one comes up with something new, it may work even tho it does not look right:s Good luck and get the right parts your engine will be happier
 
STEVE07 said:
I have just read about it on the K & N site. Definitely meant to be used with the stock backing plate. I will agree with the others here. Get yourself a backing plate. You are putting too much stress on the TB and you are going to end up with intake leaks. I would go with an HD stage 1 assembly, but if you don't want to go to that expense I can give you a stock air box N/C
Click to expand...

I'll check good ole Ebay for the stage 1 assy. Even if I get the kit from the dealer (around $144), I can maybe offset the cost by selling my other K&N. Hopefully the change won't require a change to the fuelpak on the dyno since it's a similar filter and should let in about the same amount of air. Not sure. Thanks very much for the offer of the stock box though.
 
I agree that the SE Stage I setup with a hi-flow, round filter would be a better setup because it will flow more air but the setup the OP has will work just fine.

The T/B is solidly connected to the cylinder heads via the bracket and breather bolts. The former owner removed the back plate so the OEM filter would be exposed to more air flow and connected the filter directly to the T/B. The problem that I see with the setup is that the breather bolts are not connected to any hoses to vent the crankcase pressure/oil mist to a catch can. In the OEM configuration, the breather bolt nipples are connected to the backing plate via the S shaped hoses and the crank case vents into the T/B and back into the combustion chamber to reduce emissions; not a desirable situation IMHO. The breather bolts now vent to the atmosphere (a better solution) but should be connected via hoses to a catch can otherwise they will likely drip oil after a long run or, worst case, the OP could wind up with oil puking all over the side of his bike under certain conditions.

Whether the OP decides to re-configure to a back plate and round filter or retain the current system, he needs to address the crank case venting.
 
dolt said:
The problem that I see with the setup is that the breather bolts are not connected to any hoses to vent the crankcase pressure/oil mist to a catch can. In the OEM configuration, the breather bolt nipples are connected to the backing plate via the S shaped hoses and the crank case vents into the T/B and back into the combustion chamber to reduce emissions; not a desirable situation IMHO. The breather bolts now vent to the atmosphere (a better solution) but should be connected via hoses to a catch can otherwise they will likely drip oil after a long run or, worst case, the OP could wind up with oil puking all over the side of his bike under certain conditions.

Whether the OP decides to re-configure to a back plate and round filter or retain the current system, he needs to address the crank case venting.
Click to expand...

Actually, the S hoses are connected to the nipples and into the filter on the other ends (stock OEM style, just with no backing plate). But I agree, it looks like the bracket seemed to be holding the T/B to the breather bolts just as a backplate would.

So would it be fair to say your opinion is that it can be left as is, but would be better with the Stage 1 backplate? I have my eye on a couple on Ebay...
 
I wouldn't have a problem running my bike like that until I was able to score a complete stage 1 kit at a decent price.
 
atm33 said:
Actually, the S hoses are connected to the nipples and into the filter on the other ends (stock OEM style, just with no backing plate). But I agree, it looks like the bracket seemed to be holding the T/B to the breather bolts just as a backplate would.

So would it be fair to say your opinion is that it can be left as is, but would be better with the Stage 1 backplate? I have my eye on a couple on Ebay...
Click to expand...

It works either way. You don't need the rubber seal; there is nothing for it to seal against as Jack pointed out in #2. I don't know the flow rate of the K&N filter but suspect it is adequate to support a Stage I configuration. However, I would plan on doing something with the crank case breathers at some point. In the current configuration, all the crud that accumulates in the crank case, i.e., unburned fuel and oil mist is being vented into your combustion chamber which, over time, contributes to a build up of carbon on top of the pistons. Not a big deal if you are a low mileage rider and/or don't plan on more performance upgrades.

However, venting the crank case to the atmosphere, via a catch can will prevent the crank case crud from settling on top of your pistons. The most common way of venting is via hoses from the breather bolts to a "T" fitting that is connected to another hose that is routed to some point on the bike so the crank case fume/mist are vented to the atmosphere. Some place a "catch can" in the hose from the "T" that will catch any oil mist but allow the fumes to pass through. A couple of photos to illustrate are attached along with a photo of a SE back plate prepped to vent the two breathers to a "T" connection.

A catch can made from PVC; you cannot see the exit hose but is routed between the cylinder V, across and down between the motor case and inner primary and exits through a small inline fuel filter zip tied to the frame just below the clutch.


A catch can with vents cut in the side. The inside is filled with fiber media to collect the "wet" stuff but let the fumes pass through.


SE back plate prepped to vent breather to the atmosphere.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top