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Just Two Questions Please . . .

If I may interject real quik, the tool for equal distance can be made from a coat hanger and a small o-ring, its more accurate than measuring the adjusters.

Best thing needed here is a OEM shop manual, money wisely spent.

Good answer have you been looking in the self help section already?:s
 
And I Hope NOT To Buy The " Belt Tensioner "

Hey My Good Man :)

Thanks-4-your input.

I made the alignment tool and I'm on the money. The axle is in the same place it was before I took the rear wheel off ~ Horay :sd

Now I need you opinion on that 10LBS. OF PRESSURE ON THE BELT that is recommended ~ I really DON'T want to buy that BELT TENSIONER and only use it a couple of times. :(

I read somewhere on this forum (but can't remember were) :17:

A guy posted that I don't need to buy that tensioner. All I need to do was:

Here's were I don't know EXACTLY what he said. Something like place two fingers under the belt and push-up or use two fingers and push down. Or TWIST the belt to a cetain angle ? ? ? HELP :wall

I have what I believe good tension on my belt BUT after all this time and energy I likt to do it RIGHT.

Do you know of a way I can get the RIGHT AMOUNT OF TENSION ON MY BELT ?
Without buying the Belt Tensioner Tool !


Hope this helps explain it better for you, good luck.
 

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I Seen The Video - What's The Other Way Of Doin' It

Hey Rubyred :D

I seen this video and its great.

However, instead of me buying the tool and laying it away for a couple of years til I need it again.

From what I understand there's another way of getting that 10lbs. of belt pressure without buying the tool.

Something about using you fingers and applying pressure to the belt ?

Got to be somebody out on this forum who know just how to do that ?

Thanks -4-your input.
YouTube - Belt Tension Tool 2009 05 02 19 55 48

A how to video on use of belt tensioning gauge.
 
Hi Schooner
Here' a good old trick for adjusting those 1 1/2" belts that I've used for years without any issues - note that my '91 was on its original belt until this winter:
At the midpoint between the pulleys use three fingers and twist the belt.
You should be able to twist 45 degrees and then resistance is getting real hard. That's it, and you don't need a gauge.

I just replaced my belt & pulleys with the new 1" set-up. There was nothing wrong with my old belt, but I've basically changed all the driving parts of my scoot (engine, tranny, wheels, etc)
The feel of the new belt is totally different as it is much stiffer in all directions, so I don't think the above method applies to those new ones.
BTW, I would not want to run the new belt on a small front pulley (29 or 30) as it feels like the radius would be too small risking internal breakage...
 
Re: I Seen The Video - What's The Other Way Of Doin' It

Thanks for posting that up. I went there and registered just to see. Found the short vid on adjusting the belt, IMO the man is way off. First, he measured the belt at the top, that is not accurate. Second, if he can "feel" 10 lbs of force with his finger the man is better than me. That's like being able to feel 10 lbs or 120 inch pounds of torque with a regular wrench instead of a torque wrench.

For what you have to pay for the belt tension gauge, even if you only use it once or twice a year, I'd rather ensure the proper tension then be wrong with my finger and end up having to buy either a new pulley or belt or both. I haven't looked at the rest of the site yet, but I'd take what this site says with a grain of salt.

I could be wrong but all my training and experiece tells me that to accurately measure the "slack" in a belt or chain for that matter, you never take the reading from the top, you aways take the reading from the bottom. You will always have a lil more slack on the top strand then you will the bottom so by his method, the belt will be even more tight. Like I said, I could be wrong but that's how I was taught to adjust both belts and chain. Take care. T

I agree and I have the gage. But the man asked and I gave him this info.
 
Re: I Seen The Video - What's The Other Way Of Doin' It

Tbones I didn't take your comment that way. As I said I agree with you and the gage is cheap compared to the repairs you mention if not done properly.
 
Let Me Get This Straight ~ About Twisting The Belt

Hey Karlsbike :)

Let me get this straight.

I'm going to explain to me so you can tell me right or wrong.

I take three fingers and place 'em on THE BOTTOM of the belt.
In the middle of the belt.
With NO one on the bike just the kick stand holding-up my bike.

My index finger and my third finger are on the upper part of the bottom belt & my thumb is under my two finger ~ with the belt between all three fingers YES/NO ?

Now I TWIST the belt towards me or the opposite side ?
How far do I go ?
At what point do I STOP ?
What is goin' to tell me that I've adjusted the belt properly ?

That's about it my good man :D

I await your directions :majesty


Hi Schooner
Here' a good old trick for adjusting those 1 1/2" belts that I've used for years without any issues - note that my '91 was on its original belt until this winter:
At the midpoint between the pulleys use three fingers and twist the belt.
You should be able to twist 45 degrees and then resistance is getting real hard. That's it, and you don't need a gauge.

I just replaced my belt & pulleys with the new 1" set-up. There was nothing wrong with my old belt, but I've basically changed all the driving parts of my scoot (engine, tranny, wheels, etc)
The feel of the new belt is totally different as it is much stiffer in all directions, so I don't think the above method applies to those new ones.
BTW, I would not want to run the new belt on a small front pulley (29 or 30) as it feels like the radius would be too small risking internal breakage...
 
I might just add here that twisting the belt isn't doing the belt any good. Best off to get the tension gauge and do it right.
 
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