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Just a question about cam chains and gears

Please update once you get it apart, I can't thank everybody here enough for their help and insight. My 04 Dyna would have falling victim to the dreaded cam tensioner's had I not taking the advise of these great people on this forum. Many thanks, ride safe.
 
If you plan on changing cams next year you can wait on the bearings, but if you're iffy on cams I'd go ahead and change them as long as you're in there. That's just the way I'd do it.
 
I am really interested in the dynajet power vision. How I understand it, it reads what your bike is doing and gives you maps to match that you can choose. Is this right? I would like to find something that can grow with my bike so I don't have to pay the stealer every time I change a part.
 
I am really interested in the dynajet power vision. How I understand it, it reads what your bike is doing and gives you maps to match that you can choose. Is this right? I would like to find something that can grow with my bike so I don't have to pay the stealer every time I change a part.

The Power Vision is one of the state of the art "flash" tuners; the other is the TTS Mastertune. Both have an auto tune feature that allows the user to download a map from a library that is close to the build configuration. Then use the auto tune mode to fine tune that map by riding, data logging and making the changes that show up from the data logging process. The more rides and more variation in throttle position and load, the more adjustments are logged and, when the changes are made, the finer the tune. The Power Vision is a good choice.
 
Just got it apart. The lifters have about 0.005 to 0.010 side to side movement on the rollers at a rough estimation. The shoes would have lasted another 5 to 10 thousand miles, but definitely needed to be replaced according to the service manual. my crank runout was 0.002. I'll be fine for cam gears. I got a set of 510 S&S gear cams with 6000 miles on them off of fleebay for $100.00. I'm working on a set of gears from a friend as we speak. I'll install my new S&S lifters and I'll probably never have to break open the cam chest again. I also have S&S quickee push rods. If I ever do a top end I'll just get a 97" kit and some 96" heads. I never broke a motorcycle motor down this far before, but I can only imagine what the stealer would charge for all this. On payday I'm ordering the dynojet power vision for tuning. A friend at work wants to sell me his fuel pack off of his street glide, but I'm not real interested.
 
No need to replace outer cam bearings if you do not remove the cams. $459 for the Cobra tuner is too much to pay for a "piggy back" tuner, particularly for a Stage I motor. I know what the tuner promises but for about half the price you can go with the Dobeck Gen 3. If, in the future, you install cams, increase compression, have heads worked, etc., you will need a "flash" tuner like the DynoJet Powervision or the TTS Mastertune and a proper dyno tune; the Cobra unit won't get the job done.;)
The power vision with the self tune was the best buy I ever had
 
My Cam Gears fell through I wasn't able to get them. I decided to throw in the white cam shoes that I do have and keep the stock cams for now. I'll put my 510's in oil. By the time I reach 60,000 miles I can collect some 96" heads and some 95" jugs and pistons along with a 96" intake and some cam gears then. Since my exhaust was such a PIA to disassemble, I paid $50.00 for a used pair of true dual headers from a friend at work. Next time it'll be a synch. I removed my inner bearings today and I'm glad I did when I saw them. I also bought a generic arlen ness type big sucker air cleaner assembly. I can assemble all this when my power vision comes and it should run better than new, and be easier to wrench on besides.
 
Thanks for the update, a fuel management system of your choice is surely in the near future for you with the exhaust and free flowing air cleaner upgrade. You'll notice it's running leaner (not a good thing) adding more fuel will fatten it up and will run cooler (a good thing).
 
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