free website stats program ignition fuse blowing | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

ignition fuse blowing

So, ignition fuse is a lower amperage than the in line fuses? In line fuses are usually lower than source fuse.This may help You track the problem.If radio and wiring were the problem,then an in line fuse should go before ignition fuse.
 
thanks for all the tips. i've been through all the wiring made sure everything was good put bttery on charge yesterday. today cleaned up all the crap wiring he had near the battery cleaned all his terminals cause it looked like they had never been cleaned also put an inline fuse on his amp because there wasn't one. fired it up and ran it around in front of the house so far no blown fuse tonight i'll put the fairing back on and try it out tomorrow and hope for the best. thanks for all the feed back its been great let you know what happens tomorrow
 
still no luck checked everything again put it all back together went for a short ride first bit was fine went back out again fuse blew changed it out bike made it home then blew again seems to blow now once bike warms up now im stumped????
 
Thinking outside the box, could the regulator be bad and sending to much through the system?
Here's how you can check the regulator.
Testing the charging system.


Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

Jeff Klarich, Apr 10, 2019Report
#6+ QuoteReply
 
after a week of swearing removing the fairing and running through all the wiring multiple time yesterday ripped out new stereo and put in a different one everything now seems to be working so far more test ride tomorrow. then tomorrow afternoon my friend who owns it will come take it for a long ride. but looks like everything was cause by a faulty stereo.
thanks for all the input
 
Back
Top