How Much Popping Is Too Much?

[BUBBIE]

I come from the OLD SCHOOL and yes to all the devices to help rid POPING on deceleration....

modified low back-pressure needs more fuel also on deceleration..... fuel injected vs: carburated ALL need same solve : to LEAN fuel condition.. pop..pop...

MANY OLD truck drivers remember PULLING out the choke on a gas-pot while using the engine to SLOW down....IF NOT you might blow the OLD worn-out muffler totally off the truck....

The primary chain ADJUSTMENT SHOE takes way TOO MUCH pressure against it if high RPM is used to slow bike down ie: pop pop pop

I believe in NOT using high RPM to decelerate my bikes... I ALWAYS shift if necessairy to a higher gear (when possible) upon decelerating. a lot of times I don't allow the throttle to back completely off.... NOT hard once you TAKE CONTROL of your bike. REMEMBER ::: YOU control it don't let it CONTROL you.

THIS will eliminate the small amount of poping you have AFTER you get the correct fuel needed to change the LEAN condition..

just my way,,, signed....BUBBIE

 

[glider]

It's possible to eliminate that decel popping with a fuel management system that gives you more control and fine tuning than the TFI. Glider the Sage and I disagree on this one; but, I've had very good results with the Power Commander and can get rid of the popping by enriching the mixture when RPMs drop below 1200 on decel. Just another option...

You're right to a point Sharky. The TTS and SERT will even do a better job than the PC tuner will to because it re writes the map in the ECM .
The point I try to make with the TFI is that it can be installed and tuned by just about anyone, unlike the others mentioned. Some don't have the skills to tune and modify base maps and would no doubt get themselves into trouble if they tried and cause damage to the engine as a result.
Fuel moto will send you out a pre mapped PC that is close to what you need for your bike, however it is only close and again with people that aren't computer friendly this is an option.
It all depends on what you want/need out of your bike as to what tuner you need or install. If you want perfection on a street ridden bike ,then the TTS or SERT would be the way to go but here again it has it's drawbacks. If you have it dyno tuned using one of these units ($$$) there is always a very good chance that with changes in weather/temps and fuel could cause pinging and other problems associated with a highly tuned configuration, I've seen it happen hence the reason I suggest the TFI also because of the fact that you are running on a factory base map as far as timing and the added fuel that you deliver with the TFI will give you a good running street bike.
There's a distinct difference between having a finely tuned engine and just adding fuel IMO for most street ridden bikes. I no doubt could set up a bike with the top of the line tuners but I wouldn't for the reasons stated above.
IMO dyno tuning to the max isn't called for on these Harleys other than bragging rights but everyone has their own opinion on this.
ME....I'll just stay with the TFI for a street ridden bike over the other tuners because it does what you want to and the ease of installation and set up for most including myself is a definite plus.
The popping on decel on my RK was never a problem with the TFI and with the PC tuners you can richen up the decel in the lower ranges and eliminate it almost but not completely. It's a characteristic of the low restriction mufflers and less back pressure in the system. The stock ECM has a feature that cuts fuel to the engine on decell from the factory and the PC is much like the TFI in that it is downstream from the ECM and still relies on the ECM for it's initial parameters. It modifies the pulse width of the injectors after it leaves the ECM. IMO if you are going to add a tuner of sorts, it would pay to do it with the high dollar ones that replace the fuel map instead of modifying it mid way to the injectors like the PC and TFI.
I see little or no sense in spending the price of the SERT or TTS and then adding the dyno time on top of that to the tune of somewhere around $800-$1000 to add just about the same 10-12 HP and TQ that the TFI units will add for $249.
While it's true and I'm not trying to argue the point that the more expensive tuners set up properly by a competent tuner (which brings up another valid point) will give you a better running engine, I still can't justify the cost/results of the more expensive tuners. I'm not cheap by any means but I consider the more expensive tuners overkill for these bikes and it creates a niche in the market place for big bucks to be made.