How Do I Install Those Front Brake Pads

[biscuit]

Another method is to place the OLD pads between the piston and the brake caliper body(looks like this from the side-piston;one old pad;the other old pad;brake caliper body)
Now you can insert a large screwdriver or a lever BETWEEN THE OLD PADS and force the pads apart.Thereby pushing the piston back inside the caliper.This will of course damage the pads which is why you will use the old items
This is best done wih the caliper assembly OFF the bike.

 

[fin_676]

If i have a wee bit of trouble getting the piston to slip back in i use a G clamp to push the piston fully in
once the piston is in place you can then fit new pads there are 2 brake pads one is fixed in the calliper with a screw through a mounting plate this pad needs to be fitted first
the other pad is a floating pad that sits in a floating frame and is held in place by a spring clip
if you look at the floating frame there is an extension with a hole through it the hole is for the mounting pin
near the hole is a protruding rivet with a flat head that rivet will sit in a wee cut out on the floating part of the calliper where the pin hole is there are three cut outs available on that floating head just ensure there is one of those cut outs lined up to fit the rivet into with the rivet head being locked in place
ensure the spring clip is fitted to the top of the floating frame where the cut out for the extension on the top of the pad fits the end of the spring should be pointing in a way to block the pad from being fitted and also pointing in the opposite side from the rivet mentioned earlier
place the bottom of the pad in the frame and hold it so that the back of the extension is against the spring clip by applying pressure on the pad extension the spring clip will fold back and allow the pad extension to sit in it's slot with the spring clip pushing down on the top of the extension
You can now fit the floating frame with pad in it back into the calliper ensuring the rivet sits in it's wee slot
fit the calliper back on to the bike and refit the pins to hold it in place
ensure you operate the front brake a few times to seat the pads against the disc take it easy for a while as new pads take a wee bit of use to become fully effective

Brian

 

[84FXRS]

I disagree regarding opening the bleeder screw. While that is a good idea if needed,
our buddy bc45 is trying to stay as simple as possible. Only open the bleeder in case of
difficulty retracting the piston. Better yet get back here for more detail if you have that problem. DO NOT open the bleeder until you have tried without opening the bleer.

 

[glider]

I disagree regarding opening the bleeder screw. While that is a good idea if needed,
our buddy bc45 is trying to stay as simple as possible. Only open the bleeder in case of
difficulty retracting the piston. Better yet get back here for more detail if you have that problem. DO NOT open the bleeder until you have tried without opening the bleer.

I go just the opposite way here. I don't like to push all the old fluid back into the system. I would rather bleed it out and replace it with new fluid.

 

[bc45]

I disagree regarding opening the bleeder screw. While that is a good idea if needed,
our buddy bc45 is trying to stay as simple as possible. Only open the bleeder in case of
difficulty retracting the piston. Better yet get back here for more detail if you have that problem. DO NOT open the bleeder until you have tried without opening the bleer.

The reason for opening the bleeder is (1) It helps piston move back easyer.
(2) When you push fluid backward in system you take tha chance of breaking loose old crud and pushing it into the master cylinder which can plug up internal ports.
(3) By the time pads needs to be replaced it is time to change fluid, The caliper hols 90% of the fluid so when you push it out the bleeder you are 90% done replacing fluid.

 

[schooner]

Hey Guy

Pushing the piston down won't work I tried it.
Some say I need to use a " C " Clamp; but I don't know JUST HOW TO APPLY THE "C" Clamp to the piston ~ YET !

can you remove the lid off of the master cylinder and then squeeze slowly the piston back in? the back pressure wil leave through the master cylinder...how we do our cars. I don't know if this would work but don't see why not.

Hey Brian

Great instructions. I got the pad with the clip in the caliper in with no problem. The CLIP in on and in place laying on top of the brake pad.

THANK YOU FOR THAT INFO.

Now to get that PISTON DOWN so I can get the other brake pad in place.

Brian I used a springe to take out some brake fluid from the reservoir and close the top back again.
I don't know if that will help getting that piston down in place :cry

Brian do I go over the top of the caliper and place the screw-end of the "C" Clamp into the piston and the other end of the clamp attaches to the bottom
of the caliper ?
And then TIGHTEN DOWN on the piston ?

If that is so and I remove the "C" Clamp the piston will be DOWN-YES/NO ?

O.K. lets says all that happens and the final pad is placed into postion in the caliper. Everything is bolted back onto the disc rotor.

Of course I replace the brake fluid I took out of the reserovir. How then do I get the front brakes to perform safetly ~ WHEW I'm done.

I await you response and won't do anything till I hear from YOU :small3d028:

If i have a wee bit of trouble getting the piston to slip back in i use a G clamp to push the piston fully in
once the piston is in place you can then fit new pads there are 2 brake pads one is fixed in the calliper with a screw through a mounting plate this pad needs to be fitted first
the other pad is a floating pad that sits in a floating frame and is held in place by a spring clip
if you look at the floating frame there is an extension with a hole through it the hole is for the mounting pin
near the hole is a protruding rivet with a flat head that rivet will sit in a wee cut out on the floating part of the calliper where the pin hole is there are three cut outs available on that floating head just ensure there is one of those cut outs lined up to fit the rivet into with the rivet head being locked in place
ensure the spring clip is fitted to the top of the floating frame where the cut out for the extension on the top of the pad fits the end of the spring should be pointing in a way to block the pad from being fitted and also pointing in the opposite side from the rivet mentioned earlier
place the bottom of the pad in the frame and hold it so that the back of the extension is against the spring clip by applying pressure on the pad extension the spring clip will fold back and allow the pad extension to sit in it's slot with the spring clip pushing down on the top of the extension
You can now fit the floating frame with pad in it back into the calliper ensuring the rivet sits in it's wee slot
fit the calliper back on to the bike and refit the pins to hold it in place
ensure you operate the front brake a few times to seat the pads against the disc take it easy for a while as new pads take a wee bit of use to become fully effective

Brian

 

[fin_676]

The clamp need to be large enough so that the moving end goes through the hole that is left by the fixed pad being removed and into the centre of the piston the fixed end of the clamp goes on the back side of the calliper level with the piston
as you tighten the clamp it will place pressure on the piston and push it in tighten the clamp until the piston is fully in
then undo the clamp until it can be removed from the calliper

Brian

 

[schooner]

I Will NOT Open The Bleeder Screw As You Suggested

Hey 84FXRS

You guys are something else; helping me so much.

O.K. back down to the: BLEEDER SCREW.
Can you tell me please guy why (just for my own info) Not To Open That Bleeder Screw YET :wall

On that " C " Clamp its got to be BIG ENOUGH to go over the top of the caliper to the piston ~ YES/NO ?

I await you posting as always I won't move till I hear from you great guys :worthy

I disagree regarding opening the bleeder screw. While that is a good idea if needed,
our buddy bc45 is trying to stay as simple as possible. Only open the bleeder in case of
difficulty retracting the piston. Better yet get back here for more detail if you have that problem. DO NOT open the bleeder until you have tried without opening the bleer.

 

[fin_676]

Re: Just How Does The "C" Clamp Fit In or On Top Of The Piston

Hey Brian

Great instructions. I got the pad with the clip in the caliper in with no problem. The CLIP in on and in place laying on top of the brake pad.

THANK YOU FOR THAT INFO.

Now to get that damn PISTON DOWN so I can get the other brake pad in place.

Brian I used a springe to take out some brake fluid from the reservoir and close the top back again.
I don't know if that will help getting that piston down in place :cry

Brian do I go over the top of the caliper and place the screw-end of the "C" Clamp into the piston and the other end of the clamp attaches to the bottom
of the caliper ?
And then TIGHTEN DOWN on the piston ?

If that is so and I remove the "C" Clamp the piston will be DOWN-YES/NO ?

O.K. lets says all that happens and the final pad is placed into postion in the caliper. Everything is bolted back onto the disc rotor.

Of course I replace the brake fluid I took out of the reserovir. How then do I get the front brakes to perform safetly ~ WHEW I'm done.

I await you response and won't do anything till I hear from YOU :small3d028:

Once the piston is pushed in it will stay in until you pull the brake leaver each time the brake leaver is pulled the master cylinder pushes fluid down the brake pipe when you release the brake leaver the piston in the master cylinder is pushed back by a spring and the seals around the piston fold allowing more brake fluid from the reservoir into the system
a few pumps of the brake leaver will be required to move the brake pads into contact with the disc
the brake pads will then stay in light contact with the disc pulling the brake leaver forces the master cylinder piston forward and this pushes brake fluid through the system applying more pressure to the pads against the disc and slowing the rotation of the wheel
so once all is back together then you will need to operate the brake leaver a few times to seat the pads
once you start riding go on a quiet bit of road and apply the brakes hard a few times this should help them settle down

Brian

 

[schooner]

To a great bunch of guys ~ thank you . . .

To Each & Everyone Of YOU :bigsmiley12:

Guys I couldn't have done it without you. The DEED IS DONE.
Check - out the attachments.

I also came up with a helpful hint if you like about the BUFFER piece of wood in order NOT TO DAMAGE THE PISTON with the "C" Clamp.

Once the piston is pushed in it will stay in until you pull the brake leaver each time the brake leaver is pulled the master cylinder pushes fluid down the brake pipe when you release the brake leaver the piston in the master cylinder is pushed back by a spring and the seals around the piston fold allowing more brake fluid from the reservoir into the system
a few pumps of the brake leaver will be required to move the brake pads into contact with the disc
the brake pads will then stay in light contact with the disc pulling the brake leaver forces the master cylinder piston forward and this pushes brake fluid through the system applying more pressure to the pads against the disc and slowing the rotation of the wheel
so once all is back together then you will need to operate the brake leaver a few times to seat the pads
once you start riding go on a quiet bit of road and apply the brakes hard a few times this should help them settle down

Brian