Got me a new Bike Trailer!

[BUBBIE]

I strongly suggest to either put a piece of eXtra plywood onto the floor of the trailer where bike wheels are front to back(screw down) ? 12"+ X 8' or a piece of alum Diamond plate to stiffen all up.. Pulling down COMPLETELY on the front frame of the bike so it doesn't bounce,,,LIKE you should to the floor and tightly across/down the rear shock area so no bounce on rear,,,, with the eXtra thickness, you are good and safe to go..
Over time without, I have seen the floors flex and drop down and break apart where the wheel weight "pounds" against the spot over time...

Also I prefer the " SLOID 0 ring tie downs" that connect thru the wood floor to steal cross members and side, main frame members. Not just thru the plywood... Even IF sand-witched.

I built many a trailer (Welding Business) and found EVEN IF 3/4" plywood floor is there (usually 1/2") it is nice to have eXtra thickness of protection...
years later it will still look new and be safely strong..

signed....BUBBIE

 

[glenalt]

Great advise bubbie.

 

[risuperglide]

Not trying to be nosey but what is the inside hight and about how much does a rig like that cost?

The inside height is 5' tall & it is 12'4" long with V-nose, & it is 5' wide. From the ground to the top of the roof it stands 6'1" tall. It weighs 875Lbs, & has a carrying capacity of just under 2000Lbs. I paid $3025.00 including the front caster wheel on the bottom of the hand jack. I luv it, as it fits my needs perfectly!.....:yes

I strongly suggest to either put a piece of eXtra plywood onto the floor of the trailer where bike wheels are front to back(screw down) ? 12"+ X 8' or a piece of alum Diamond plate to stiffen all up.. Pulling down COMPLETELY on the front frame of the bike so it doesn't bounce,,,LIKE you should to the floor and tightly across/down the rear shock area so no bounce on rear,,,, with the eXtra thickness, you are good and safe to go..
Over time without, I have seen the floors flex and drop down and break apart where the wheel weight "pounds" against the spot over time...

Also I prefer the " SLOID 0 ring tie downs" that connect thru the wood floor to steal cross members and side, main frame members. Not just thru the plywood... Even IF sand-witched.

I built many a trailer (Welding Business) and found EVEN IF 3/4" plywood floor is there (usually 1/2") it is nice to have eXtra thickness of protection...
years later it will still look new and be safely strong..

signed....BUBBIE

Thanks for the tips!

I thought you said you bought a V-nose?

Mine is the V-nose version Model # TC581V!......:s

 

[Hoople]

Mine is the V-nose version Model # TC581V!......:s

I got confused because you said yours looked like the one in the picture which was not a V model. The V model you will enjoy. There is no question they save fuel when towing.

 

[risuperglide]

If somebody wants to leave me a E-mail address I will sent you a pic connected to my truck & you could post it here for me....I have not mastered posting a pic here as of yet......:s

 

[mnultra]

I got confused because you said yours looked like the one in the picture which was not a V model. The V model you will enjoy. There is no question they save fuel when towing.

The trailer in the picture is a v nose model and a v nose does not automatically save fuel when trailering. Alot depends on what you are pulling with. For the OP with a pickup, I think your right but for me with an SUV, my mileage went from 8 to 13 when I switched from a vnose to a flat front. The air coming off the truck with the vnose actually would hit directly into both sides of the vnose and create huge drag (along with enough turbulance to rattle my rear window). Now with a flat front, the trailer sits more in the pocket of the trucks aerodynamics.

 

[risuperglide]

The trailer in the picture is a v nose model and a v nose does not automatically save fuel when trailering. Alot depends on what you are pulling with. For the OP with a pickup, I think your right but for me with an SUV, my mileage went from 8 to 13 when I switched from a vnose to a flat front. The air coming off the truck with the vnose actually would hit directly into both sides of the vnose and create huge drag (along with enough turbulance to rattle my rear window). Now with a flat front, the trailer sits more in the pocket of the trucks aerodynamics.

I was on the highway yesterday with it at speeds of 65MPH! It was very stable with the V-nose & it did not feel like I was draggin a brick with many, flat faced trailers I have towed in past years! Then again the 07 F-150 tows that trailer like nothing, since its rated for 9200Lbs in tow, & that trailer is not even close to that!.....

 

[Hoople]

The trailer in the picture is a v nose model and a v nose does not automatically save fuel when trailering.

The trailer in entry point #8 of this thread is V-Nosed? I don't know a whole lot about trailers but shouldn't a V-nose trailer be shaped with a V-nose?
Go to this link and scroll across the gallery to picture #7. TC Trecker 5' Wide Gallery - Wells Cargo Corporation

There you will see a red V-nose trailer model # TC581-V which is the exact trailer the OP purchased. The trailer is V-nosed (at least to me) and looks nothing like the trailer on entry point #8 of this thread.

I figured V-nose meant just that... it has a V-nose shape unlike the Flat front of the white trailer from earlier in this thread. Am I wrong?

I have pulled both kinds of trailers and the V-nose used un-mistakenly less fuel at road speeds. To me, the flat front trailer was like pulling a garage door through water at 50 mph.

 

[mnultra]

The trailer in entry point #8 of this thread is V-Nosed? I don't know a whole lot about trailers but shouldn't a V-nose trailer be shaped with a V-nose?
Go to this link and scroll across the gallery to picture #7. TC Trecker 5' Wide Gallery - Wells Cargo Corporation

There you will see a red V-nose trailer model # TC581-V which is the exact trailer the OP purchased. The trailer is V-nosed (at least to me) and looks nothing like the trailer on entry point #8 of this thread.

I figured V-nose meant just that... it has a V-nose shape unlike the Flat front of the white trailer from earlier in this thread. Am I wrong?

I have pulled both kinds of trailers and the V-nose used un-mistakenly less fuel at road speeds. To me, the flat front trailer was like pulling a garage door through water at 50 mph.

You can tell really easy in just where the spare is mounted. This is my flat front for comparison. And I would agree that behind a pick up, a v-nose is the only way to go. Just not always behind an SUV.

 

[Hoople]

You can tell really easy in just where the spare is mounted. This is my flat front for comparison. And I would agree that behind a pick up, a v-nose is the only way to go. Just not always behind an SUV.

Wow, you have a sweet looking trailer. But now I am totally confused.

No biggy, it really does not matter. I was just trying to learn more about what is available when selecting a trailer. The couple of times I rented trailers, I was pulling with a cage so the V made a big difference.