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Easy Fork Oil Change On Baggers

Mr. Data - thanks for posting your method.
On my 84 FLHTC I was finding it nearly impossible to get all the oil into the forks buy pouring into the top of the forks with the banjo bolt removed.
Most of the oil went on the floor.

I saw your post and ordered a Actron CP7830 Hand Vacuum Pump from Amazon

I got the pump yesterday and this morning, using your directions, it took me all of 10 minutes to get the oil into the forks!!

This is one of the best darn maintenance tips I have ever used:D

Thanks!
Steve
 
Just used this tip, worked like a charm. Couple things to add.

1. You will need an impact driver to remove the drain screws.
2. Lift front wheel off the ground before removing screw. 1st side was under pressure oil came blowing out made a mess, 2cd side no issues with wheel off ground.
3. Had to compress, decompress forks several times to get all the old oil out.

Next time whole job will take about 20 minutes.
 
hyundaipro said:
hello will this work on a 2005 electa glide classic too and where are the drain and fill valves thanks mac
Click to expand...


Cartridge forks started in '02 on the left side of the touring models with fairings only. FLHT,
FLHTPI, Ultras, etc. Starting with the 06 bikes, the cartridge forks have been replaced with the normal oil type lower legs on both sides.

This is posted in the first tip.
 
I have read up on this just scanning through post and decided to set up tool and do this on my 07 egc, it has 30177 on it today.so far I have only had normal maintenance and normal wear items to deal with and my riding habits are not always easy. I push the bike to its limits when I'm on my own. This procedure is so simple that I accomplished it at the fire station after dinner took 30 to 45 mins total but the first 25 mins. was a slight learning curve with caution involved.Oil was the darkest grey to black with lots of metallic swirls in it, also smelled foul. I have had the bike since new 1st time to be changed. I used the heavier wt screaming eagle no problems getting the 310 mls back into fork tubes 2 drops leaked out while putting screw and crush washer back in..cant wait to ride tomorrow and feel the difference which has to be better due to the condition of factory oil.I will ride until next oil change due on motor approx. 700miles and redo the forks then just to get the rest of residue and contaminants out since I only need 1 more bottle of oil and takes no time at all to accomplished very pleased with everyones input, which I read over 2 or 3 times prior to doing this. Thanks to all for such good info and the moderators for running superb site .
 
Rydn4fun

Glad to see you tried this way. It makes the job really easy and the tool is very simple to make for anyone. What drains out is basically fish oil and the reason for the foul smell. I have always done my forks once a season despite the recommendations. When you see the condition of the oil that comes out, you understand why. Fresh oil will extend the life of the seals etc. in the front end over the metallic particles that you see in the oil when you draint and worth the small expense of the oil to do it seasonally.
 
I'd really like to try this method on my 2011 Street Glide. I presume the method will work on this model? I already have a MityVac to create the vacuum, but the photos of the tool are no longer in the thread. Any chance of making them available again so I can see what I need to make?
 
I have this rig made up already. Give me till the weekend and I'll post up some pics of my rig.
Tank, we could probably use my photo's to resurrect this thread.......
 
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