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andrews 26 cam in 95 build

Ok kool I undetstand the second process better. Ill have to read the post a cupla times . I'm getting hold of my indy guy to see were he takes his .
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Ok read the first part over again . I get it now
F.k.
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Do not forget to replace the OEM inner cam bearings with the Torrington B148 bearings and the OEM chain tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner shoes.

Drag Specialties also makes a hi capacity oil pump that will work with the early OEM cam plate.

 
Yes I'm looking at the andrews roller chain kit , and it comes with your choise of cams for $720 I'm not shure if the comecwith the torington s but ill get them if they don't . $13 fir piece of mind
F.k.
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I'm getting a crank welded and trued so ill go with the torington tappered for the crank as well
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Now are the CYCO shoes for the spring tensioners . It would be about $400 cheaper not quite after buying shoes .
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For what you are doing, the OEM cam plate with the Drag oil pump and CYCO tensioner shoes will work just fine. Your chains have been "polished" by previous wear and the CYCO tensioner shoes are made from a different material than the OEM shoes and there have been no reports of failures; they seem to be holding up well. JMHO but I would save the money and spend it on a tuner.

If you are getting the crank trued, balanced and welded, you will need the weight of the modified CP piston/pin/rings for the machinist so the crank can be balanced to that weight. Who is doing the crank work?

Good luck!
 
---the OEM cam plate with the Drag oil pump and CYCO tensioner shoes will work just fine. Your chains have been "polished" by previous wear and the CYCO tensioner shoes are made from a different material than the OEM shoes and there have been no reports of failures; they seem to be holding up well.--

Dolt, seems your attitude changed a bit in the last year concerning the spring loaded tensioners.
Have the CYCO's been out there long enough for proof of longevity?


Wasn't 02 the last year for tapered bearings in the crankcase?
 
Dolt, seems your attitude changed a bit in the last year concerning the spring loaded tensioners. Have the CYCO's been out there long enough for proof of longevity?

Wasn't 02 the last year for tapered bearings in the crankcase?

Yes, 2002 was the last year for the tapered crank bearing. I lost track of the model year of FK's bike; he already has the Timken tapered bearing. Perhaps he was referring to replacing the OEM bearing with a Torrington bearing, which may be the same bearing. IIRC, Timken and Torrington are one and the same; not sure. 2002 was also the last year for hot forged cranks and if I was FK, I would check crank runout and if the crank was true, I would not be spending the money to true/balance/weld the crank. You rarely hear of a 2002 crank slipping; those lower units were pretty bullet proof. I might have it balanced if the new piston weights vary that much from stock but I don't believe they will.

My attitude really hasn't changed about cam drives. I still think gear driven cams are at the top of the list; a bit more cost than the latest OEM hydro tensioner/roller chain setups but worth it IMHO if funds are available. Having said that, a typical street motor that will make right at 100TQ/100HP will run fine with the OEM cam plate; still running ball/roller bearings in lieu of bronze bushings. The weakness in the early OEM setup, again JMHO, is the oil pump that doesn't scavenge as well as it should and the OEM tensioners that have a history of failure. With the Drag pump and the CYCO tensioners, particularly someone building on a budget, the OEM cam plate is up to the task. I get the impression that FK may be looking for ways to reduce cost and, if I were in his shoes, I would run the OEM cam plate, Drag pump and CYCO tensioners and spend the savings on a tuner and tune. IMHO, the cost/benefit for gear drive or the SE hydro tensioner/roller chain upgrade just isn't there for what FK is building. If he was building a 120+/120+ motor, I might take a different view of cam drives and crank work.:s

The CYCO tensioners have been out for more than two years now and there have been no reported failures or reports of premature wear. I scour the HD forums looking for such information and all that have been running the CYCO tensioners are reporting minimal and even wear when they open up the cam chest to inspect. The material is much like the primary chain tensioner material and you know how tough that stuff is.
 
Hey Dolt . Actualy I'm ridding an 03 electra gluide classic . I put on modified exhaust brackets to hold the long shots . So I figure the 03 probly could do with the tapperd toringtons and crank trued .
My indi guy gave me the same advice on the spring loaded tenioners . He said the new material was much better and I have over 50000 miles on it . So even if they last that long again , I'm still ahead .
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Dolt, thanks for the in depth reply. After posting #25, thought I may have been hijacking the thread a tad but this is all good info for F.K. in his build.

F.K.,
I would def be following Dolt's advice in #26 and indicate the pinion shaft before committing to splitting the cases and have crank work done. If it's within .003 TIR I would be leaving it alone JMHO. I would then (again dolts advice) use that $ for head work. Remember there's more $$ to be spent on small stuff not to mention new lifters & adjustable PR's.
 
I haven't found anyone yet to do the bores , pistons and crank . Ill get hold of my indy and find were he goes . Or the local harley dealer and see who they use .
F.K.
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Hey Dolt . Actualy I'm ridding an 03 electra gluide classic . I put on modified exhaust brackets to hold the long shots . So I figure the 03 probly could do with the tapperd toringtons and crank trued .
My indi guy gave me the same advice on the spring loaded tenioners . He said the new material was much better and I have over 50000 miles on it . So even if they last that long again , I'm still ahead .
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'03....ok, I took year off of your avatar.

I would still check crank run out before committing to splitting the cases to make decisions on where $ could be best spent.
Doing the bottom end brings a lot more work & $ than just top :D

These guys specialize in bottom end work:
Hoban Brothers Cycle
 
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