I'll heve to wait until tomorrow, thursday, to do the coil and fuse check. I should be able to post the results at about 1500hrs PDT.
OK. Here is the next step in order to get you rolling faster.
Lets just say with the Run/Kill switch set to RUN and the ignition switch set to ON,,, you read Zero volts at the white/black wire at the coil AND you read Zero voltage on BOTH sides of the ignition fuse. => just reply to the thread saying that this is what you found.
Lets just say with the Run/Kill switch set to RUN and the ignition switch set to ON,,, you read Zero volts at the white/black wire at the coil AND you read battery voltage on BOTH sides of the ignition fuse. => then perform the following step.
Make up a short jumper wire (must be at least 18 gauge) with an alligator clip on each end.
One side of the ignition fuse has a Red/Black wire going to it. The other side of the ignition fuse has a Gray wire going to it. With the ignition key in the off position, place the jumper wire between the Gray wire end of the ignition fuse and the White/Black wire on the ignition coil.
With the ignition fuse installed and the jumper wire in place, will the bike now start and run? Reply with what happens.
In case you can not easily see what color wires are attached to the ignition fuse, just perform this simple test.
Remove the ignition fuse. Turn ON the ignition switch. Using your voltmeter, measure for voltage on each clip of the fuse Holder. The side of the fuse holder which has battery voltage on it, is the RED/Black wire side. The side with No voltage on it is the Gray wire side.