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'01 FLSTF Ignition Problem

I'm searching for the schematic

I came across some service info for your carb 2001 Softail.

1) Does your bike have a TSM or a TSSM (factory security).
2) When you turn on the ignition, does the check engine light come ON for 4 seconds, then go OFF and REMAIN off.?

3) When you take a voltmeter and place it between the white/black wire of the ignition coil & Frame ground, you said you see the voltage go to 12.0v for just a few seconds and then it goes to Zero volts.
This is a True statement, that can be repeated with the same results and you have seen these results for yourself.

Do not guess at any answers. If your not sure, just say so but do not guess.
 
I came across some service info for your carb 2001 Softail.

1) Does your bike have a TSM or a TSSM (factory security).
2) When you turn on the ignition, does the check engine light come ON for 4 seconds, then go OFF and REMAIN off.?

3) When you take a voltmeter and place it between the white/black wire of the ignition coil & Frame ground, you said you see the voltage go to 12.0v for just a few seconds and then it goes to Zero volts.
This is a True statement, that can be repeated with the same results and you have seen these results for yourself.

Do not guess at any answers. If your not sure, just say so but do not guess.

1)Yes on the factory security, not audible but it works fine.
2) Yes on the check engine light for 4 seconds after ignition is turned on.
3) it's true. I tested that myself numerous times.

Thanks a ton for your continued help!
 
The answer for question #2 is not complete. I asked if after the 4 seconds of ON, does it go OFF and remain OFF. Watch the sequence. If I can not get the accurate answers I need, the diagnosis will be incorrect.


Go to the fuse block and identify the "Ignition Fuse". It should be in the middle row, far right (depending how your looking at the block) Once you are SURE you know which fuse is the "ignition fuse", perform the following.

Using your voltmeter, turn the ignition key to ON & set the kill/run switch on the bars to RUN. Now once again check the voltage at the white /black wire at the ignition coil to see if it is reading Zero. If it is reading zero, immediately go to the ignition fuse and check to see if you have battery voltage at the ignition fuse (both sides). If you DO have voltage at the fuse, once again go back to to coil to verify it still shows zero volts.

Be sure the Kill/Run switch is set to RUN.

What readings do you find.
 
The answer for question #2 is not complete. I asked if after the 4 seconds of ON, does it go OFF and remain OFF. Watch the sequence. If I can not get the accurate answers I need, the diagnosis will be incorrect.


Go to the fuse block and identify the "Ignition Fuse". It should be in the middle row, far right (depending how your looking at the block) Once you are SURE you know which fuse is the "ignition fuse", perform the following.

Using your voltmeter, turn the ignition key to ON & set the kill/run switch on the bars to RUN. Now once again check the voltage at the white /black wire at the ignition coil to see if it is reading Zero. If it is reading zero, immediately go to the ignition fuse and check to see if you have battery voltage at the ignition fuse (both sides). If you DO have voltage at the fuse, once again go back to to coil to verify it still shows zero volts.

Be sure the Kill/Run switch is set to RUN.

What readings do you find.

Sorry for the incomplete answer...The check engine light does the exact same thing you discribe, comes on when the ignition switch is turned on and it remains on for four seconds then it goes off and remains off.

I'll heve to wait until tomorrow, thursday, to do the coil and fuse check. I should be able to post the results at about 1500hrs PDT.

Thanks again for your help!
 
I'll heve to wait until tomorrow, thursday, to do the coil and fuse check. I should be able to post the results at about 1500hrs PDT.

OK. Here is the next step in order to get you rolling faster.

Lets just say with the Run/Kill switch set to RUN and the ignition switch set to ON,,, you read Zero volts at the white/black wire at the coil AND you read Zero voltage on BOTH sides of the ignition fuse. => just reply to the thread saying that this is what you found.

Lets just say with the Run/Kill switch set to RUN and the ignition switch set to ON,,, you read Zero volts at the white/black wire at the coil AND you read battery voltage on BOTH sides of the ignition fuse. => then perform the following step.

Make up a short jumper wire (must be at least 18 gauge) with an alligator clip on each end.
One side of the ignition fuse has a Red/Black wire going to it. The other side of the ignition fuse has a Gray wire going to it. With the ignition key in the off position, place the jumper wire between the Gray wire end of the ignition fuse and the White/Black wire on the ignition coil.
With the ignition fuse installed and the jumper wire in place, will the bike now start and run? Reply with what happens.


In case you can not easily see what color wires are attached to the ignition fuse, just perform this simple test.
Remove the ignition fuse. Turn ON the ignition switch. Using your voltmeter, measure for voltage on each clip of the fuse Holder. The side of the fuse holder which has battery voltage on it, is the RED/Black wire side. The side with No voltage on it is the Gray wire side.
 
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