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SE Compensator upgrade

Like the old saying, if it's to good to be true! If it were mine I'd stick to the SE upgrade. JMHO.:s

Good point, and in reading up on it a bit more, sounds like its a good way to kill the crank... I feel like the kid that's late for the party. All this comp stuff has been discussed and re-discussed for the last few years almost as much as types of oil! Eventually I'll catch up...

Too bad MoCo can't find a way to constantly bathe the thing in oil... submerge the critter, and fill the primary with more oil! Guess that would cause clutch and other issues though.. Sorry, I'm full of useless ideas.
 
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A co-worker of mine just had one of the direct drive sprockets installed in his '08 Ultra. He reported a definite increase in vibration at highway speeds. In a slightly different vein, and not to hijack the thread, but I'm a bit curious about the root cause of the compensator issue. Why does one bike show significant wear in 30-40k miles and the next bike can go twice that mileage and show hardly any wear?
 
A co-worker of mine just had one of the direct drive sprockets installed in his '08 Ultra. He reported a definite increase in vibration at highway speeds. In a slightly different vein, and not to hijack the thread, but I'm a bit curious about the root cause of the compensator issue. Why does one bike show significant wear in 30-40k miles and the next bike can go twice that mileage and show hardly any wear?

I'd be shocked to hear of an '07, '08, or '09 touring going 80K without compensator troubles (especially with the OEM comp) from all I've read. The root cause apparently is that it doesn't get enough oil. Once you start the engine, it spins away all the oil due to centrifugal force and you have metal on metal constantly. That's the reason for the new diverters cast into the new primary covers-- to perhaps divert some drops of oil onto the compensator while its running. Thus my question about redesigning such that you could make the oil level higher and cover the compensator. But that would also cover the clutch and cause shifting issues. The second issue is apparently the springs in the stock comp aren't strong enough. The SE ones are much bigger. Again, I'm an idiot on the subject, but have read enough forum threads to be dangerous...

A co-worker of mine just had one of the direct drive sprockets installed in his '08 Ultra. He reported a definite increase in vibration at highway speeds. In a slightly different vein, and not to hijack the thread, but I'm a bit curious about the root cause of the compensator issue. Why does one bike show significant wear in 30-40k miles and the next bike can go twice that mileage and show hardly any wear?

By the way, mine only has 10K miles, and I'm getting the tell-tale signs of a bad comp...
 
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The Stock Older compensators are Totally different than the New SE replacements... The 09 I had were a front loaded Spring assembly that went WEAK. Not from the lack of oil BUT Weak and Banging on the spokes...

Then the SE with the Big washer Like springs cupping together were its replacement THEN the Lack of oil was there.

Actually I would have rather had the Original style of the Compensator in my 09 as it only had soft spring load causing the problem. Heavier OR replacement Springs would have solved the problem.... BUT NO says HD and developed the start of many $$$$$$$$$$ needed by the owners of the Old comp. replacing with the Not too good SE comp. then also The newer bikes that came out with them as standard equipment. LAUGHABULL if not costing ALL a lot of $$$$$$$$$ to the owners of the HD's.

$$$$ for the company as None of the newer compensators are Lasting very Long.

signed....BUBBIE
 
Actually I would have rather had the Original style of the Compensator in my 09 as it only had soft spring load causing the problem. Heavier OR replacement Springs would have solved the problem....
signed....BUBBIE

That is VERY interesting. Wonder why more people don't just replace the springs?? Even if you had to do it every 10K miles, who cares? Would be cheaper, and give you an excuse to open the primary every once and a while to inspect your ride! BUBBIE, do they even sell replacement springs? Guessing not..
 
The CUSHION off the motor crank-shaft IS a needed thing. Straight chain sprockets do Not hold up nor does the Ride...

Too much Jerky without it (45* off-set 2 cylinders) IF we had 180* off set engine,,, firing smoothly, that might be ok.

On the King I also have a Rubber insert that allows Cushion right after the engine compensator to the tranny Then RUBBER device for Smooooother flow to the rear wheel...

Seems ALL that is needed to Equate to SMOOOOOOOOth operation...

I would Not have mine any other way.

signed....BUBBIE

That is VERY interesting. Wonder why more people don't just replace the springs?? Even if you had to do it every 10K miles, who cares? Would be cheaper, and give you an excuse to open the primary every once and a while to inspect your ride! BUBBIE, do they even sell replacement springs? Guessing not..

HD Saw REAL MONEY for a complete replacement......

I have, On another forum, a mechanic that said HE did the ordering of New Springs and Used the older Original Comp on Many bikes he works on...

Also saying he added One more spring?....... X-tra spring?.......That I know no more about BUT he said it worked.
Old Comp Spring. is a Round Looking Like a Big washers,,, Big OD and ID,,,,Facing against the original comp. Squeezing and Applying Pressure to hold the com from loose and Banging...

? Might Make a good product to sell and I Know you would be able to Make Money.

OK, It is all yours :D:newsmile100:

signed....BUBBIE
 
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I'd be shocked to hear of an '07, '08, or '09 touring going 80K without compensator troubles (especially with the OEM comp) from all I've read. The root cause apparently is that it doesn't get enough oil. Once you start the engine, it spins away all the oil due to centrifugal force and you have metal on metal constantly. That's the reason for the new diverters cast into the new primary covers-- to perhaps divert some drops of oil onto the compensator while its running. Thus my question about redesigning such that you could make the oil level higher and cover the compensator. But that would also cover the clutch and cause shifting issues. The second issue is apparently the springs in the stock comp aren't strong enough. The SE ones are much bigger. Again, I'm an idiot on the subject, but have read enough forum threads to be dangerous...







By the way, mine only has 10K miles, and I'm getting the tell-tale signs of a bad comp...


I am riding an '07 Ultra. It has 141,000 miles on it. Still has the OE compensator in it. I had the primary apart this past winter to replace the main transmission bearing. The compensator assembly shows some wear, but nothing excessive. Additionally, another co-worker has an '07 Ultra with about 70k miles. I have never seen his apart to judge the level of wear, but I know it still has the OE compensator in it.

Not to belabor the point, but if poor lubrication is really the cause, why doesn't it affect all bikes more equally?
 
I am riding an '07 Ultra. It has 141,000 miles on it. Still has the OE compensator in it. I had the primary apart this past winter to replace the main transmission bearing. The compensator assembly shows some wear, but nothing excessive.

Wow. Believe that's the first good report I've heard about the stock comp. You should be playing the lottery more often. Still wish the bdl direct drive showed more promise. Also, guess there is still no release of the Dark horse comp that was supposed to end all this misery.
 
But is it not true that on cold or initial start up its best to start with bike in neutral. Does this not reduce the wear factor. I know my 2008 EG which is completely stock and 28,000 has no known issues with compensator...
 
But is it not true that on cold or initial start up its best to start with bike in neutral. Does this not reduce the wear factor. I know my 2008 EG which is completely stock and 28,000 has no known issues with compensator...

Not to belabor the point, but if poor lubrication is really the cause, why doesn't it affect all bikes more equally?

At dbmg, Since you have to disengage the clutch to start anyway, not sure it matters, though I always start in neutral (not sure what previous owner did).

At Jennmarr, some have said riding style may play a factor. But according to Bubbie, the lubrication issue only applies to the SE comps. The stock comp going out on mine (and still good in yours) is the weak spring issue. I suppose the springs could be inconsistent? Don't know. Wish I did.

May just wait til spring to fix it and do some relaxing research this winter.
 
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