There's much to be said about the proper changing and quantities of oil in Harleys.
I will give some guidelines here to changing the oil and servicing but remember they are only guidelines and the quantities as well as the method of checking them have changed over the years and especially the newer models.
For best results check the owners or factory manual.
To start with a good warm up of the engine is preferred, preferably a ride of about 10 miles to agitate the sediment in the oil and keep it in suspension. It takes quite a while to get the oil up to operating temps.
Dyna/Softail
In the Dynas and softails, engine oil is usually 2 1/2 to 3 quarts depending on the completeness of the oil drain.
In Softails it is recommended to run the bike in the upright position at idle before draining for a few minutes to purge the crankcase of oil. Check this section out for softail oil changes.
Complete Oil Change (softail) - Harley Davidson Community
Always add the 2 1/2 quarts at first and warm the bike then top off as needed using the dipstick as a guide. Oil levels will vary from hot to cold on the dipstick by about 1/2 quart lower when cold.
Some newer models get checked on the side stand, while older ones had to be stood straight up to check. Check your manual here for proper method.
Primary can vary between 24-26 ounces for most models prior to 07.
Fill through the clutch inspection cover to the bottom of the clutch basket only (the silver ring around the edge of the clutch bucket) while standing the bike straight up.
More oil than specified here will cause hard shifting and trouble finding neutral.
Transmission is usually 1 quart and can be checked warmed up with the dipstick that is located under the fill plug usually standing straight up in the older bikes and on the side stand on some of the newer ones. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil and check your manual for the proper quantities of oil and methods of checking them.
Touring Bikes
Here's where the major differences come in.
The touring bikes use 3 1/2 to 4 quarts for engine oil. Always fill to 3 1/2 first and top off as needed using the dipstick when hot. Overfilling can cause oil to be expelled into the air cleaner. Remember here that when you drain the oil from the engine, there's always about 1/2 quart left in the oil galleries and other places so refilling with 4 quarts will make it overfull.
Primary oil will vary here too. The later primaries hold 38 OZ of oil, where as the earlier ones used a quart or less. Again here, fill to the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike standing up straight or hard shifting and trouble finding neutral will result from overfilling.
Transmission is about the same here too with most bikes taking 1 quart and checking upright with the dipstick found under the fill cap on older models and on the side stand on some of the new models. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil.
Drain screws for the transmissions will vary from the bottom of the case in the center between the shocks on softails and also in the bottom edge of the clutch ramp cover on earlier models.
Drain screws for the transmission on baggers will be the one facing downward in the bottom of the oil pan while the one facing front on the leading edge of the oil pan is for engine oil.
Use proper torque and new "O" rings when changing oil and remember that a steel drain plug going into an aluminum alloy case can cause problems if not installed correctly or over tightened.
Use these as guidelines only and consult your owners manual for verification of fluid capacities and methods of checking.(On side stand or straight up)
NOTE:
One more thing here and that is not to be tempted to remove the plug in the bottom of the engine sump (case) It has been tried by some and in a few cases they have cracked the engine case trying to remove it.
The plug is there from the manufacturing process for the case and is installed with red locktite.
I will give some guidelines here to changing the oil and servicing but remember they are only guidelines and the quantities as well as the method of checking them have changed over the years and especially the newer models.
For best results check the owners or factory manual.
To start with a good warm up of the engine is preferred, preferably a ride of about 10 miles to agitate the sediment in the oil and keep it in suspension. It takes quite a while to get the oil up to operating temps.
Dyna/Softail
In the Dynas and softails, engine oil is usually 2 1/2 to 3 quarts depending on the completeness of the oil drain.
In Softails it is recommended to run the bike in the upright position at idle before draining for a few minutes to purge the crankcase of oil. Check this section out for softail oil changes.
Complete Oil Change (softail) - Harley Davidson Community
Always add the 2 1/2 quarts at first and warm the bike then top off as needed using the dipstick as a guide. Oil levels will vary from hot to cold on the dipstick by about 1/2 quart lower when cold.
Some newer models get checked on the side stand, while older ones had to be stood straight up to check. Check your manual here for proper method.
Primary can vary between 24-26 ounces for most models prior to 07.
Fill through the clutch inspection cover to the bottom of the clutch basket only (the silver ring around the edge of the clutch bucket) while standing the bike straight up.
More oil than specified here will cause hard shifting and trouble finding neutral.
Transmission is usually 1 quart and can be checked warmed up with the dipstick that is located under the fill plug usually standing straight up in the older bikes and on the side stand on some of the newer ones. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil and check your manual for the proper quantities of oil and methods of checking them.
Touring Bikes
Here's where the major differences come in.
The touring bikes use 3 1/2 to 4 quarts for engine oil. Always fill to 3 1/2 first and top off as needed using the dipstick when hot. Overfilling can cause oil to be expelled into the air cleaner. Remember here that when you drain the oil from the engine, there's always about 1/2 quart left in the oil galleries and other places so refilling with 4 quarts will make it overfull.
Primary oil will vary here too. The later primaries hold 38 OZ of oil, where as the earlier ones used a quart or less. Again here, fill to the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike standing up straight or hard shifting and trouble finding neutral will result from overfilling.
Transmission is about the same here too with most bikes taking 1 quart and checking upright with the dipstick found under the fill cap on older models and on the side stand on some of the new models. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil.
Drain screws for the transmissions will vary from the bottom of the case in the center between the shocks on softails and also in the bottom edge of the clutch ramp cover on earlier models.
Drain screws for the transmission on baggers will be the one facing downward in the bottom of the oil pan while the one facing front on the leading edge of the oil pan is for engine oil.
Use proper torque and new "O" rings when changing oil and remember that a steel drain plug going into an aluminum alloy case can cause problems if not installed correctly or over tightened.
Use these as guidelines only and consult your owners manual for verification of fluid capacities and methods of checking.(On side stand or straight up)
NOTE:
One more thing here and that is not to be tempted to remove the plug in the bottom of the engine sump (case) It has been tried by some and in a few cases they have cracked the engine case trying to remove it.
The plug is there from the manufacturing process for the case and is installed with red locktite.
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