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Oil spraying disaster

Just re-read Doc's post.

I am no expert, but sure looks like blowby past the rings as Doc stated foaming the oil.

Would a compression test proove that the rings are not seating properly ????
 
A compression test will tell a lot of things if it is done correctly. By adding a small quantity of oil to the cylinder after the first reading is obtained, you can check the seal of the rings doing this. If you get more than a small increase in compression pressure with the oil added, then suspect the rings.
 
compression test was completed... front 136 rear 135....
oil was dropped again and refilled.4qts.. 10 min ride... recheck oil level unable to read due to foam on dip stick.. drained pan..and measured once foam dissolved.. and it was short 10 ozs..
tore into timing chest and guess where the missing 10 ozs was.. yup in the timing chest cavity...
OIL PUMP NOW ON ORDER..L. WILL LET YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENS AFTER IT INSTALLED...
 
For sure the scavenge side of the pump isn't doing it's job and the crank is whipping up the oil. Glad you got some answers to the problem.
 
frostbyte said:
compression test was completed... front 136 rear 135....
oil was dropped again and refilled.4qts.. 10 min ride... recheck oil level unable to read due to foam on dip stick.. drained pan..and measured once foam dissolved.. and it was short 10 ozs..
tore into timing chest and guess where the missing 10 ozs was.. yup in the timing chest cavity...
OIL PUMP NOW ON ORDER..L. WILL LET YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENS AFTER IT INSTALLED...
Click to expand...

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heres the latestest update from my friend in his own words.. "Even after the HVHP S&S pump was installed their still is oil spilling out of the crank case breathers , although the oil is not milky any more . Because so much has been said about the excessive pressure from improperly seated rings and thinking that airy milky oil isn't the best oil to use to break in new rings ... I have decided to tear it down once again and re-ring her . The barrels are gettng put back on a torque plate to be inspected then honed .
The top end looks great all reed valves are in place , no oil holes are plugged ,drain holes through the cylinders are free and clear as well as the case .
Is anthing being over looked ? Sure hope this is it .. Will keep you posted . This will take alittle time to do ... as I've got to work too ".
 
Don't throw money at problems!Diagnose and repair!Before you remove the top end do a leak down test.It'll tell you a bit more than a compression test.Find the problem before you spend any more money.Is the breather timed properly?Sounds like that could be an issue because of the cam replacement.
 
There is a happy ending to this ordeal... my buddy ross has resolved the issue here is his comments
"Just wanted to say thank-you to Glider and Doc as they were right on the money with the rings not being seated . Thanks to Fisher too for the input but when the new pump went in I double checked the timing on the breather gear and it was correct.
The compression rings on the bottom side were shiny but not all the way around , an indication of a poor seal . So not to take a chance , the cylinders were sized for plus .010 pistons and rings to match . Ring spacing was done per the instructions again and new gaskets installed . I read Gliders artical on break in procedure and did just that , no deviation .
I've 120 miles on her now and no oil coming out of the breather at all ! What a relief !! Again thanks to all and it was quite an experience and well worth it ! I won't forget the things I've learned ".
"It feels great to be on the road again"!!!
Ross
 
Glad to hear you got it sorted out. The break in is very important to do correctly for the proper ring seal.
 
Thanks to all those who helped out my buddy Ross with his problems... the combined knowledge in here is incrediable!!!
thanks again!!!!
 
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