oil pressure

[markwink]

Same thing with the s/e cam plate and oil pump no o-ring between the pump and plate.I asked this question and was told that it was a machined surface and did not require an o-ring. The 1999 dyna that i installed this kit into sounds good when cold but just as soon as it gets warm and at idlle the oil light flikers and you start having lifter noise. I used alignment pins that i made to center the oil pump to plate .I followed the instructions and still having problems. I have ordred new alignment pins and will try that .
Mark

 

[BUBBIE]

Same thing with the s/e cam plate and oil pump no o-ring between the pump and plate.I asked this question and was told that it was a machined surface and did not require an o-ring. The 1999 dyna that i installed this kit into sounds good when cold but just as soon as it gets warm and at idlle the oil light flikers and you start having lifter noise. I used alignment pins that i made to center the oil pump to plate .I followed the instructions and still having problems. I have ordred new alignment pins and will try that .
Mark

Sounds More Like to me the cam plate PRvalve is sticking open... There are quite a few that have this problem... (new style cam plate or old one)

At idle, IF the valve is Stuck open, not enough pump volume is there to keep the oil-pressure up.. RAISING the Idle to about 2000 RPM and pressure Comes back up is the diagnostic test needed... Alignment is NOT the problem IF you used pins.. There is only a Scant movement on the oil pump to cam-plate and on these newer pumps, less likely Mis-alignment to arise...

IF the oil pressure "comes up" above to 25/30# when HOT raising the RPM From Idle, and disappears again at idle..... MY Bet is the PR valve sticking open... NOT a problem when Oil is cold (viscosity is high)But when HOT, IT will not be enough pump pressure at Idle so it goes to "0"...

I've had a lot of experience with this and do believe I am Spot On with this ISSUE.

You can take out the spring and thimble like piston... Carefully remove the 1/8 roll pin on the cam-plate and see IF the piston Moves or falls out freely (spring will pop out so catch it).. I use a broken 1.8 drill bit shank as a driver...

Using a slightly modified pop-cycle stick, it can be fashioned to Go Inside the little metal piston and can be your tool for seeing IF it has any places it sticks... I'm betting on this to be the problem.

This removal and monkeying Can Be Done without removal of the cam-plate (thanks to a shortened popcycle stick and sloghtly Whittled down to fit Inside the RP Valve bore and Stuck into the piston so it is holding firmly to the inside. Then you can move this little piston around.

IF you feel any tight spots on this piston, IT gets WORSE when Heated on running the motor.

Fine cleaning-smoothing the piston and bore MIGHT be needed IF sticking.

More about that IF Needed...

signed....BUBBIE

Don't Stretch the spring and careful when putting it back into the bore,,,,Keeping the spring Well Above the roll pin when replacing it OR you WILL damage the spring end...

I never have believed in MORE spring pressure to avoid the sticking open problem JUST so the piston Travels fully with No bind or Sticking.. My Idea of Loose here IS better than tight.

Moderator;Please add to above post and remove this request Thanks Bubbie

 

[01 rk]

On my kit, and the same with the Andrews Products kit, there are two orings that fit between the pump and the plate. I would have assumed that the SE kit would have those also. This in NOT correct. I was remembering this incorrectly. See post below. TQ. Did the instructions that came with the SE kit not call for orings there?

TQ

The instructions made no mention of an o-ring between the pump and the plate. As Markwink said the dealer told me the same thing, none was required.
There were 3 o-rings with the kit, two went from the pump to the crank case and one for the rear cam. I also checked another source and was told no o-ring or gasket was required.
I have not put many miles on since the change so I do not know if I will experience the same problem as Markwink, hopefully not.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice day 68, I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the help!

 

[TQuentin1]

Same thing with the s/e cam plate and oil pump no o-ring between the pump and plate.I asked this question and was told that it was a machined surface and did not require an o-ring. The 1999 dyna that i installed this kit into sounds good when cold but just as soon as it gets warm and at idlle the oil light flikers and you start having lifter noise. I used alignment pins that i made to center the oil pump to plate .I followed the instructions and still having problems. I have ordred new alignment pins and will try that .
Mark

The instructions made no mention of an o-ring between the pump and the plate. As Markwink said the dealer told me the same thing, none was required.
There were 3 o-rings with the kit, two went from the pump to the crank case and one for the rear cam. I also checked another source and was told no o-ring or gasket was required.
I have not put many miles on since the change so I do not know if I will experience the same problem as Markwink, hopefully not.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice day 68, I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the help!

You guys are absolutely right. My mistake trying to go just from memory. THERE ARE NO ORINGS BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE PLATE. This is a machined surface and the two just have a contact fit. So that is why alignment is critical.

Sorry for my mistake above. As noted by 01_RK above, the three orings I was remembering seal the plate to the crankcase and the pump to the crankcase (see photo below - two "brown" orings, and port towards the bottom left of the cam chest).

TQ

 

[01 rk]

Rode about 40 miles, got the oil temp up and the psi went down. On the hiway at 65mph 35-40psi, at idle 5-10 psi. No engine noise either.
The psi is still hi when starting cold, around 50, that may change with warmer weather.
If I can improve my mpg I will be set to go.

 

[BUBBIE]

Rode about 40 miles, got the oil temp up and the psi went down. On the hiway at 65mph 35-40psi, at idle 5-10 psi. No engine noise either.
The psi is still hi when starting cold, around 50, that may change with warmer weather.
If I can improve my mpg I will be set to go.

I see nothing wrong with that kind of oil pressure...

AS Long as THE RED Oil light stays OFF...

Another NOTE: I never asked the RPM YOUR idle is set?...

IF LOWER then 1100/1200 RPM IT will be LOW Oil Pressure at idle.

IMO; These bike are NOT made to sit and idle...:newsmile105:

signed....BUBBIE

 

[01 rk]

I see nothing wrong with that kind of oil pressure...

AS Long as THE RED Oil light stays OFF...

Another NOTE: I never asked the RPM YOUR idle is set?...

IF LOWER then 1100/1200 RPM IT will be LOW Oil Pressure at idle.

IMO; These bike are NOT made to sit and idle...:newsmile105:

signed....BUBBIE

No red light, idles at 1000/1100

 

[markwink]

On the i have been working on we pulled the cam plate back out of this engine Saturday. We checked the 2 o-rings and checked the plunger to make sure it wasnt sticking. We also religned the oil pump and still the oil light comes on at idle while hot. We also still have the lifter noise. We have went back and double checked everything and dont know where to go from here. When the inner cam bearing went out with the stock pump we had oil pressure no light flicker at all now with the new plate and pump we have this problem. Does anybody have any ideas before we load up and go tho the local HD shop?
Mark

 

[TQuentin1]

On the i have been working on we pulled the cam plate back out of this engine Saturday. We checked the 2 o-rings and checked the plunger to make sure it wasnt sticking. We also religned the oil pump and still the oil light comes on at idle while hot. We also still have the lifter noise. We have went back and double checked everything and dont know where to go from here. When the inner cam bearing went out with the stock pump we had oil pressure no light flicker at all now with the new plate and pump we have this problem. Does anybody have any ideas before we load up and go tho the local HD shop?
Mark

If you aligned the oil pump using the alignment screws and while rotating the rear wheel with the tranny in 5th (plugs out), and you are still having problems, I am inclined to believe you are still having a sticky plunger problem when the engine gets hot. I would go back in and pull the plunger out and clean the port carefully with a long Q-tip and some carb cleaner on the Q-tip. Then polish the plunger with some fine grit emory cloth or sand paper. Better if you could spin it while lightly applying the sand paper to smooth. Finally, polish it with some 0000 steel wool. Reassemble and try that. Get an accurate oil gauge and see what the oil pressure actually is at idle when hot. if over 7psi, then you are OK, but may need to replace your sending unit. But the spec HD is most worried about is that you have 30-38psi at 2000rpm at operating temp (230*F).

TQ

 

[markwink]

Thanks