no oil pressure after cam & head change
- Thread starter B-1B_Guy
- Start date
B-1B_Guy
Junior Member
Bub/Hoop/Chopper,
Thank you, I understand the plug shorting deal and will do that from now on. Anyhow, stopped at my dealer on the way home from work and talked to my service manager. He said that when they clear the lowers they really "HOG OUT" the material, they remove lots of material. Well, they are going to clear out the lowers for me. They've done hundreds in the past, I trust them, and have been VERY good to me.
As far as the low oil pressure....I may loosen up the 4 oil pump bolts, turn the motor over and after I put it back together (with new cleared lowers), see what happens. Now, I did use the SE billet cam support plate and there was NOT an seal that goes between the oil pump and cam support plate.....did I miss something here? Will it take time for the support plate and tappets to build pressure before sending oil up the pushrods?
I sure appreciate you guys time and advice.
Thank you, I understand the plug shorting deal and will do that from now on. Anyhow, stopped at my dealer on the way home from work and talked to my service manager. He said that when they clear the lowers they really "HOG OUT" the material, they remove lots of material. Well, they are going to clear out the lowers for me. They've done hundreds in the past, I trust them, and have been VERY good to me.
As far as the low oil pressure....I may loosen up the 4 oil pump bolts, turn the motor over and after I put it back together (with new cleared lowers), see what happens. Now, I did use the SE billet cam support plate and there was NOT an seal that goes between the oil pump and cam support plate.....did I miss something here? Will it take time for the support plate and tappets to build pressure before sending oil up the pushrods?
I sure appreciate you guys time and advice.
Lack of oil pressure/no pump output...? What about simple things like alignment of the meshing oil pump gears, problem with oil pump mating surfaces, insuffiicient oil inside so it is losing initial prime or cavitating?
Can there be an obstruction somewhere in the oil gallery or feed lines/holes do not match? I think further investigation of the oiling circuit and passages inspection and checks are in order. Don't have experience with V-twin engine takedown, but did so with automotive engines...network of oil passages, gaskets and passthru complexity made it easy to not get everything right...so don't beat yourself up, just do methodical troubleshooting, service manual details oil circuit. JMO.
I can't imagine how changing heads and cams would cause NO oil pressure/flow, but peripheral "damage" is always a possibility when cracking open the engine...but there are a lot of fellow riders here who can probably give you a leg up on the problem...
Can there be an obstruction somewhere in the oil gallery or feed lines/holes do not match? I think further investigation of the oiling circuit and passages inspection and checks are in order. Don't have experience with V-twin engine takedown, but did so with automotive engines...network of oil passages, gaskets and passthru complexity made it easy to not get everything right...so don't beat yourself up, just do methodical troubleshooting, service manual details oil circuit. JMO.
I can't imagine how changing heads and cams would cause NO oil pressure/flow, but peripheral "damage" is always a possibility when cracking open the engine...but there are a lot of fellow riders here who can probably give you a leg up on the problem...
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
WHEN ALL BACK TOGETHER
I would still SUGGEST the method of plugs out n grounded wires ,,,, turning motor over Without any of the (starting) pressures on the engine parts UNTIL the oil pumps up...
I'm FEELING sure it will,,,, it is just that everything is empty on oil. It did take quite a few cranks on mine BEFORE the oil pumped up... AS I DID::: PUT as much lube around the EMPTY cavity as possible.... THE SUMP SUCKS up oil and will help prime the pump...
I leaned my bike WAY left and poured oil into that area then sealed it up....
signed....BUBBIE
I would still SUGGEST the method of plugs out n grounded wires ,,,, turning motor over Without any of the (starting) pressures on the engine parts UNTIL the oil pumps up...
I'm FEELING sure it will,,,, it is just that everything is empty on oil. It did take quite a few cranks on mine BEFORE the oil pumped up... AS I DID::: PUT as much lube around the EMPTY cavity as possible.... THE SUMP SUCKS up oil and will help prime the pump...
I leaned my bike WAY left and poured oil into that area then sealed it up....
signed....BUBBIE
Hoople
Account Removed
I agree with you Bubbie. Spinning without spark plugs installed should do it.
I don't know if it would help but out of desperation I might try removing the oil sending unit and hand pumping some oil into the hole at an attempt to pre-load the oil pump. If it doesn't pump on it's own after this, it would be tear down time for me.
I don't know if it would help but out of desperation I might try removing the oil sending unit and hand pumping some oil into the hole at an attempt to pre-load the oil pump. If it doesn't pump on it's own after this, it would be tear down time for me.
B-1B_Guy
Junior Member
Alright guys,
Small update. Took my lowers down to my dealer today and had their expert look at my grind job. He has cleared hundreds of lowers and has alot of experience in this area. He said that my clearance job could be cleaned up to look better but I ground in the right spots and had "great plenty" of clearance. Anyhow, I left them there for him to clean up the job a little and make it look like it was done professionally and not by an axe murderer.
Here's what he said about the NO oil pressure. He said to turn the bike over (with the plugs out) for 15 seconds. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool off and do it again and continue this process 4 or 5 times. He said it can take up to 2 minutes for the lifters to pump up. That loud metal on metal sound my bike made was the pushrods slapping the rockers because my lifters weren't pumped up (not a clearance problem).
I probably tore the bike down five or six times for absolutely nothing but I learned a bunch.
Thanks again for all the help.
Small update. Took my lowers down to my dealer today and had their expert look at my grind job. He has cleared hundreds of lowers and has alot of experience in this area. He said that my clearance job could be cleaned up to look better but I ground in the right spots and had "great plenty" of clearance. Anyhow, I left them there for him to clean up the job a little and make it look like it was done professionally and not by an axe murderer.
Here's what he said about the NO oil pressure. He said to turn the bike over (with the plugs out) for 15 seconds. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool off and do it again and continue this process 4 or 5 times. He said it can take up to 2 minutes for the lifters to pump up. That loud metal on metal sound my bike made was the pushrods slapping the rockers because my lifters weren't pumped up (not a clearance problem).
I probably tore the bike down five or six times for absolutely nothing but I learned a bunch.
Thanks again for all the help.
B-1B Guy, Thank you for the post and update, and good to hear you got things sorted.
In HD's since everything is all together, there is no shaft exposure to attach adapter to pre-presurize everything. Sorry, I am new to this V-Twin biz, and it sure is helpful to understand and learn things.
It makes sense, when rebuilding automotive engine "dry" it was easy just to use a drill motor to spinup the oil pump, and prime the oil pump for a "wet" engine, prior to installing and startup of the engine.
In HD's since everything is all together, there is no shaft exposure to attach adapter to pre-presurize everything. Sorry, I am new to this V-Twin biz, and it sure is helpful to understand and learn things.
It makes sense, when rebuilding automotive engine "dry" it was easy just to use a drill motor to spinup the oil pump, and prime the oil pump for a "wet" engine, prior to installing and startup of the engine.
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