Limp mode - check engine light on

[bikernick]

Haven't seen any posts on this in a while so wanted to offer my recent experience and see if anyone has had a similar experience.

Had my bike go into limp mode 4 weeks ago. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the TCA Switch as has been discussed in this forum. Picked up the bike and rode or about another 125 miles and it went into limp mode again. Now its back at the dealer and I'm waiting for a call.

 

[Biffy08]

Haven't seen any posts on this in a while so wanted to offer my recent experience and see if anyone has had a similar experience.

Had my bike go into limp mode 4 weeks ago. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the TCA Switch as has been discussed in this forum. Picked up the bike and rode or about another 125 miles and it went into limp mode again. Now its back at the dealer and I'm waiting for a call.

That really does stink. I have put over 1200 miles on my bike since my last limp mode experience and I am still waiting. Bikernick, I hope they figure yours out without too much downtime and $$$!

 

[Bryan Tristram]

Thanks dcaliendo. Sounds detailed. I will give it a try tonight.

Same problem here. I cleaned the connector and put dielectric on. Work for a couple days. Now it happened again. I'm thinking of having the harness changed out. Would this be a good choice? I'd hate to be out and about and it happen again.

Thanks,
Bryan Tristram

 

[76_shovel]

if your codes are 1511 and 2135, chances are the 2135 caused the 1511.
2135 has a 33 priority while the 1511 has 77 priority.

2135 is Throttle position correlation error, as has been stated this can be caused by bad connections (including wires).
There is some testing that needs to be done on your part and post back the results.

Take the outer fairing off and locate the 6pin connector that connects to the twist grip connector.
there are 6 wires,
black/gray = 5v sensor ground2
violet/yellow = twist grip sensor 2
red/white = 5v sensor power2
black/white = 5v sensor ground 1 -- this same wire goes to pin 1 on the connector behind the air cleaner base
blue/brown = twist grip sensor 1
brown/orange = 5v sensor power 1 -- this same wire goes to pin 5 on the connector behind the air cleaner base

these two throttle position sensors work opposite from each other.
As throttle is opened, sensor 1 goes from 0volts to 5 volts while sensor 2 goes from 5v to 0volts.
at all times the sum of these two voltages must add up to aprox 5volts.
If they do not, the ecm can put into limp.

take your volt meter ( with ign on NO START) check red/white and check for 5volts (this 5v comes from pin 68 of the ECM.
I believe (its been a little while) if you also check brown/orange you should find 5v also ( comes from pin 50 of ECM)

put meter on violet/yellow sensor 2 , twist throttle and note voltage is going from 5 -> 0 volts.
put meter on blue/brown sensor 1, twist throttle and note voltage is going opposite, 0 -> 5 volts

turn ign switch off.

check for continuity on all 6 wires. from the connector
blk/gray is pin 1 and goes to pin 62 on ecm
violet/yellow is pin 2 and goes to pin 39 on ecm
red/white is pin 3 and goes to pin 68 on ecm
black/white is pin 4 and goes to pin 61 on ecm AND pin 1 on connector behind throttle body backing plate.
blue/brown is pin 5 and goes to pin 59 on ecm
brown/orange is pin 6 and goes to pin 50 on ecm AND pin 5 on connector behind throttle body backing plate.

also check continuity for wires at connector behind backing plate
pin1 ( already checked from above)
pin 2 goes to ecm pin 30
pin 3 goes to ecm pin 29
pin 4 goes to ecm pin 36
pin 5 ( already checked from above)
pin 6 goes to ecm pin 37.

enough for now, let us know what you find.

 

[Bryan Tristram]

if your codes are 1511 and 2135, chances are the 2135 caused the 1511.
2135 has a 33 priority while the 1511 has 77 priority.

2135 is Throttle position correlation error, as has been stated this can be caused by bad connections (including wires).
There is some testing that needs to be done on your part and post back the results.

Take the outer fairing off and locate the 6pin connector that connects to the twist grip connector.
there are 6 wires,
black/gray = 5v sensor ground2
violet/yellow = twist grip sensor 2
red/white = 5v sensor power2
black/white = 5v sensor ground 1 -- this same wire goes to pin 1 on the connector behind the air cleaner base
blue/brown = twist grip sensor 1
brown/orange = 5v sensor power 1 -- this same wire goes to pin 5 on the connector behind the air cleaner base

these two throttle position sensors work opposite from each other.
As throttle is opened, sensor 1 goes from 0volts to 5 volts while sensor 2 goes from 5v to 0volts.
at all times the sum of these two voltages must add up to aprox 5volts.
If they do not, the ecm can put into limp.

take your volt meter ( with ign on NO START) check red/white and check for 5volts (this 5v comes from pin 68 of the ECM.
I believe (its been a little while) if you also check brown/orange you should find 5v also ( comes from pin 50 of ECM)

put meter on violet/yellow sensor 2 , twist throttle and note voltage is going from 5 -> 0 volts.
put meter on blue/brown sensor 1, twist throttle and note voltage is going opposite, 0 -> 5 volts

turn ign switch off.

check for continuity on all 6 wires. from the connector
blk/gray is pin 1 and goes to pin 62 on ecm
violet/yellow is pin 2 and goes to pin 39 on ecm
red/white is pin 3 and goes to pin 68 on ecm
black/white is pin 4 and goes to pin 61 on ecm AND pin 1 on connector behind throttle body backing plate.
blue/brown is pin 5 and goes to pin 59 on ecm
brown/orange is pin 6 and goes to pin 50 on ecm AND pin 5 on connector behind throttle body backing plate.

also check continuity for wires at connector behind backing plate
pin1 ( already checked from above)
pin 2 goes to ecm pin 30
pin 3 goes to ecm pin 29
pin 4 goes to ecm pin 36
pin 5 ( already checked from above)
pin 6 goes to ecm pin 37.

enough for now, let us know what you find.

UPDATE:

After going through some of the check offs we decided to take the fuelpak off! Go figure the fuelpak went out! We had checked the grip sensor and then after that were stumped. Runs great with out the fuelpak. I'm guessing i'll have a possible overheating problem, especially since I'm SE Georgia! Am I right about it possibly causing harm to run long with out the pak? It was suggested to get the power commander. Any idea? Or new thread?

 

[Jeff Klarich]

Good find, thanks for the update.

 

[TQuentin1]

OP, it depends what you want to do. If you are just trying to richen up the AFR and get rid of some decel popping, you might check out Dobeck Performance options. They give a discount to member here. Here is the link:

http://www.dobeckperformance.com/Harley/fuel-injection.asp

If you want to be able to have more control over the engine than just a bit of fuel add, then you will need a controller. Those that are gonna give you a bunch and will be very likely to be understood by HD mechanics are the Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner or for more control, the Screamin' Eagle Super Tuner and the "Screamin’ Eagle electronic fuel injection Race Tuner if you can find them.

Cheers,

TQ