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Limp mode - check engine light on

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Biffy08

Active Member
Hi all.
Sorry if this one has been asked before but I did not see it in the self-help. On my way home from work tonight, I got a half mile from home:small3d031: and the check engine light came on and the bike went into limp mode. How do I diagnose or get a code to tell what is wrong on a 2008 FLHTCU?
 
This is usually caused by bad connection in the connector behind the air cleaner in the circuit for the 'fly-by-wire' throttle control circuit.

Diagnostic Codes

Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
Push odometer reset button in & hold.
Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing.
Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)

P --> ECM (Electronic Control Module [EFI])
S --> TSM/TSSM/HFSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module/ Hands-free Security Module)
SP --> speedometer
t --> tachometer
b --> ABS codes


To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
Record the codes.
If DTCs are NOT to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' is displayed. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Perform a road test then shut your bike down. Recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 7. If the code is current it will reappear. Historic DTCs are stored for 50 ignition cycles before cleared. The security lamp will only indicate the existence of historic DTCs for two ignition cycles.
 
Thanks dcaliendo. Sounds detailed. I will give it a try tonight.
dcaliendo said:
This is usually caused by bad connection in the connector behind the air cleaner in the circuit for the 'fly-by-wire' throttle control circuit.

Diagnostic Codes

Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
Push odometer reset button in & hold.
Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing.
Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)

P --> ECM (Electronic Control Module [EFI])
S --> TSM/TSSM/HFSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module/ Hands-free Security Module)
SP --> speedometer
t --> tachometer
b --> ABS codes


To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
Record the codes.
If DTCs are NOT to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' is displayed. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Perform a road test then shut your bike down. Recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 7. If the code is current it will reappear. Historic DTCs are stored for 50 ignition cycles before cleared. The security lamp will only indicate the existence of historic DTCs for two ignition cycles.
Click to expand...
 
The same thing happened to me. However it was because I hade just replaced the grips. I made it to the dealer, the Tech told me this happens all the time. They loosened to clamp and pushed the handle and the clamp in (almost 1/4 inch) and retorqed the clamp. Everything has been good to go so far.

Later

Biffy08 said:
Hi all.
Sorry if this one has been asked before but I did not see it in the self-help. On my way home from work tonight, I got a half mile from home:small3d031: and the check engine light came on and the bike went into limp mode. How do I diagnose or get a code to tell what is wrong on a 2008 FLHTCU?
Click to expand...
 
Mongo1958 said:
The same thing happened to me. However it was because I hade just replaced the grips. I made it to the dealer, the Tech told me this happens all the time. They loosened to clamp and pushed the handle and the clamp in (almost 1/4 inch) and retorqed the clamp. Everything has been good to go so far.

Later
Click to expand...

Yeah when I changed the grips and extended the wiring for taller handlebars that happened to me. The twist grip was in the bar and at the end of the bar but I did not push the grip far enough onto the twist grip to engage the notches/gear at the end. The check engine light did not come on but I had to operate the throttle pushing the grip towards the center of the bike for 37 miles. I am really hoping that I can solve this, what seems like an electrical nightmare, rather than taking it to a mechanic.
 
By the way, thanks to all who have responded!:bigsmiley12:

Here is what I have so far.
In module P (the first one I came to) got codes 1511 and 2135. No other codes were present on any of the other modules (all read none). At the end of checking the individual modules this flashed across: 34462-08C which I think is the ECU. Can anyone help with the 1511 and 2135?
Thanks again!
 
DTC: P1511
FAULT CONDITION: Throttle actuator limited power management mode
PRIORITY ORDER: 91
SOLUTION: 6.23 DTC P1510,P1511,P1512

DTC: P2135
FAULT CONDITION: Throttle position sensor correlation error
PRIORITY ORDER: 44
SOLUTION: 6.31 DTC P2135,P2138
 
OK great! Thanks again for the help! - I guess I am getting somewhere but how do I apply the solutions? I am really green to these things and am feeling in over my head already. It looks like both are related to each other and I am hoping that I do not have to pull or replace and wires from inside the handlebars!
 
Biff, easy fix. To the left and behind your air cleaner is the throttle body actuator plug..it is attached to the throttle body. unplug it, spray a good quality electronic cleaner in there, let that dry and then apply a coat of dielectric grease. plug it back in and ride. I had this issue with my bike last month, did the above and haven't had a repeat. MoCo has learned of this in the 08 MY but hasn't done anything. I believe over time vibration and heat create fretting on the plug.
 
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