Lil help on how to get the rotor off

[Jack Klarich]

Thanks Glider...This may sound dumb but my motorcycle is an 85; will that make a difference since the motorcycles affected were 2003-2005?

Follow the torque for your model, The older style compensator s were a lot different:s

 

[mtmasean]

Follow the torque for your model, The older style compensator s were a lot different:s

Thanks Jack gonna follow my manual values...Well I got everything off today just waiting for the new parts. The clutch and starter were fun to get off. :s I kind of modified a harmonic balancer puller to get the clutch off by adding a small piece of wood to prevent the bolts from pulling through. I attached some photos of the stator and rotor. Is it normal to have some chips on some of the magnets on the edge? I'm not sure if this is the original rotor or not. I doubt that it is. My oil didn't really smell burnt and I guess the bad spot on the stator looked like some broken insulation (pic attached).

Since my primary is at Brown's Plating I'm debating on upgrading the regulator, stator and rotor to a 32 amp vice 22 amp. I guessing the only benifit would be that I would have the extra power if I wanted to add more lights. Any recommendations? Or should I stay at 22 amps? It's not a touring motorcycle so I don't have the radio and other things on it. The only thing I'll probably add would be some LED lights.

Thanks everyone for the assistance. I'm new to working on motorcycle and am not a mechcanic but am willing to learn. Not really wanting to spend 90-100and hour for labor:swoon if I can do it myself.

 

[bobwire]

the "notch is for ballancing"............bw

 

[mtmasean]

the "notch is for ballancing"............bw

Ah, makes sense. I saw some in the catalog that had a couple of notches. Thanks.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Thanks Jack gonna follow my manual values...Well I got everything off today just waiting for the new parts. The clutch and starter were fun to get off. :s I kind of modified a harmonic balancer puller to get the clutch off by adding a small piece of wood to prevent the bolts from pulling through. I attached some photos of the stator and rotor. Is it normal to have some chips on some of the magnets on the edge? I'm not sure if this is the original rotor or not. I doubt that it is. My oil didn't really smell burnt and I guess the bad spot on the stator looked like some broken insulation (pic attached).

Since my primary is at Brown's Plating I'm debating on upgrading the regulator, stator and rotor to a 32 amp vice 22 amp. I guessing the only benifit would be that I would have the extra power if I wanted to add more lights. Any recommendations? Or should I stay at 22 amps? It's not a touring motorcycle so I don't have the radio and other things on it. The only thing I'll probably add would be some LED lights.

Thanks everyone for the assistance. I'm new to working on motorcycle and am not a mechcanic but am willing to learn. Not really wanting to spend 90-100and hour for labor:swoon if I can do it myself.

Good job so far, I would upgrade the charging system now if you plan on making any changes later, I would also change the crank seal as long as you have it apart, That rotor looks after market to me, was it oily inside?

 

[mtmasean]

I guess it was somewhat oily. I haven't cleaned it up yet. The pictures are right after I removed it. I have the seal and bearing for the starter shaft that goes on the inner primary to already. Can the bearing on the crank be changed now. My manual looks like you have to take it apart. Or does the seal just come off like they do on the wheel hub?

 

[Jack Klarich]

I guess it was somewhat oily. I haven't cleaned it up yet. The pictures are right after I removed it. I have the seal and bearing for the starter shaft that goes on the inner primary to already. Can the bearing on the crank be changed now. My manual looks like you have to take it apart. Or does the seal just come off like they do on the wheel hub?

Pop the seal out now, prelube a new one and drive it in square with a piece of pipe or a large socket. H D has a tool for this but it is kind of spendy and unless you are splitting the case open and changing the crank bearings save your money:s

 

[mtmasean]

Alright,...I have my new charging kit. I went with the Compu-Fire 32 amp. Hope to get off work early tomorrow so I can install it and put everything back together. Then all I will be waiting for is my newly re-chromed primary cover. Since I was waiting for that to arrive, I went ahead and ordered some new shocks too. I needed them as well. Meanwhile, I'll install the 11" shocks until my new 12" ones get here. I'll just have to put my covers on the new ones since they have the scroll work that matches the scroll work on the motor. So, this time next week I'll be riding again...hopefully

Well, I didn't get to work on the bike yesterday but, I have the bike back together today. Just waiting on the primary cover to come back from getting re-chromed and my new shocks to arrive. Can't wait, I'm ready to go riding again.:s

Finally, got everything back together and running. Thanks again for all the help. What's funny is when I test drove it the speedo wasn't working. Looked down at the speedo drive unit and the cable had come out. I was going to swap it out with steel braided one and keep the black one as a spare. I guess I can't do that since the cable came out of the cover. Always something.