Lil help on how to get the rotor off

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by mtmasean, Jul 28, 2011.

  1. mtmasean

    mtmasean Active Member

    I saw on here a thread that had pictures of the step by step process which was pretty good but, I can't find it again. I also looked at the tips too on stator replacement. Most of the info had you use a puller bolted to the rotor to pull it off. Easy enough except mine does not have holes in the rotor to bolt to. This is a 85 FXEF Evo 1340. Should I drill my own holes and thread? If so, how far from the shaft and is there anything behind it to avoid? Most of the videos also had it to where you could get the rotor and stator off without having to pull off the inner primary. My question is do I need to pull off the inner primary? This is my first time doing this and believe me I researched this before getting into this (apparently not enough though :(). I also have the service manual but, was trying some of the ways in the videos and pictures as a reference too.

    Most of the videos also stated to torque the compensator nut to 150-165 ft/lbs. My manual says 100. Has this been revised or should just torque to what my manual says? Thanks in advance for the help.
  2. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    If your manual is for THAT bike and year, do what it says.

    On getting the rotor off, what does the book say? I would NOT drill the rotor. You would have to ensure that you drilled both holes exactly opposite each other, the same distance from the center of the rotor and removed the same amount of metal so that you do not affect the balance of the rotor.

    I have never seen a rotor without the holes drilled in it for removal. I do not use a puller, but do thread some carriage bolts into the holes, grab those with lock-jaw pliers and yank the rotor off that way.

  3. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

    My rotor has two holes that are about 4" apart. I took two pieces of steel rod about 5" long and 1/16"dia. and bent a 90* on the end of each (about 1/2") on the other end I made loops for my finger. Put the 90* ends in the hole and pull the rotor off.
  4. mtmasean

    mtmasean Active Member

    TQ-I attached a photo of the rotor. I didn't think that it would be a good idea of drill either just thought I'd throw that out there. In the picture you can see what appears to be a notch on the rotor but it does not go all the way through inorder to slip a bent piece of metal to help pull on it. The manual does say to remove the inner primary but like I said all the videos I saw didn't do that. So I hoped that I was going to be able to short cut that part. Not sure what the purpose of the notch is for either.

    Don-I tried that method too but didn't have steel rod. I flattened a clothes hanger to slide in the key way on the shaft to slide behind the rotor but, they are to soft of metal and would straigthen back out.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  5. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    Even if you did have threaded holes in the rotor,, it looks like there is not enough clearance to remove the rotor past the inner primary cover boss. Does the manual say to 1st remove the inner primary? If you did, you could then just grab the rotor with your hands and not even need a puller. (?)

    (I like the safety wire bolts. The good old days:))
  6. mtmasean

    mtmasean Active Member

    Hoop-Yes, after reading the manual a little more it does say to remove the inner. I guess the newer primary's have a straight shot to the rotor and why all the videos I reviewed didn't remove the inner. Mine has some what of a lip by the rotor. The manual still has you using a puller (HD-95960-52B). I still wouldn't see how that would work without having the holes to thread the puller to. I agree that with the inner primary off I should (hopefully) be able to grab the outside of the rotor in order to remove it. Just was hoping to not have to remove the clutch.

    Gotta love the lock wire. I did plenty of that when I was a Missile Technician on submarines.:)
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    Once you remove the inner primary the rotor should just pull off, once off look at the crank seal as long as you are that far. You may want to check that inner primary for true lay it on some glass, in the picture it looked like a lot of silicone on it JMO
  8. mtmasean

    mtmasean Active Member

    Jack when you mean true do you mean that it is still level and not warped? I agree about the other bearings and seals already have those in hand. I also sent my primary cover to Brown's Plating today too.

    Another question, my manual says to torque the compensator bolt to 100 ft/lbs but everyone (all the videos I reviewed) said 150-165 ft/lbs. Should I follow my manual torque values?
  9. glider

    glider Veteran Member

    You understood what Jack posted just fine.:D

    Here's the compensator torquing procedure...

    Compensator Torque M1170.pdf
  10. mtmasean

    mtmasean Active Member

    Thanks Glider...This may sound dumb but my motorcycle is an 85; will that make a difference since the motorcycles affected were 2003-2005?