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Ignition Wire Overheating-2000 Heritage

Are you sure that if you removed the IGN fuse, the Red/black wire would not heat up. Try it to make sure.

When looking at the IGN fuse and fuse holder, can you see the colors of the wires going to each end of the fuse.
The IGN fuse should have a gray wire going to one end. Can you see that solid gray wire?
The other end of the fuse, should have a Red/black wire going to it.

Do you have an ohm meter that has a continuity beeper built into it?
 
Hoople said:
Are you sure that if you removed the IGN fuse, the Red/black wire would not heat up. Try it to make sure.

When looking at the IGN fuse and fuse holder, can you see the colors of the wires going to each end of the fuse.
The IGN fuse should have a gray wire going to one end. Can you see that solid gray wire?
The other end of the fuse, should have a Red/black wire going to it.

Do you have an ohm meter that has a continuity beeper built into it?
Click to expand...


I am sure I removed the correct ignition fuse. It does look like the solid gray wire is going to the ignition fuse.

I do not have the ohm meter with the beeper built in. If it will help get this problem fixed, I will try to buy one later today.
 
Remove the IGN fuse.
Place Ignition switch position to OFF.
Tip over switch is still disconnected.
Run/Kill switch to OFF.

Place your ohm meter in the 2K ohm range. Connect 1 end of the meter to frame ground. The other end to the IGN fuse holder, on the side with the solid gray wire..
What ohm value do you read on your meter. You should read infinity.

Take a look at PDF page #1. Output of IGN fuse is the solid gray wire. If the kill switch is in the OFF position, the only thing fed by that fuse is the tip over switch (see page# 2). But you already disconnected the tip switch so that does not leave you much.

The Kill/Run switch housing may be shorted to ground. Remote but maybe connector #22 is somehow shorted to ground. Other than that, it has to be a pinched gray wire,, maybe in bars or switch cover.
 

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Hoople said:
Remove the IGN fuse.
Place Ignition switch position to OFF.
Tip over switch is still disconnected.
Run/Kill switch to OFF.

Place your ohm meter in the 2K ohm range. Connect 1 end of the meter to frame ground. The other end to the IGN fuse holder, on the side with the solid gray wire..
What ohm value do you read on your meter. You should read infinity.

Take a look at PDF page #1. Output of IGN fuse is the solid gray wire. If the kill switch is in the OFF position, the only thing fed by that fuse is the tip over switch (see page# 2). But you already disconnected the tip switch so that does not leave you much.

The Kill/Run switch housing may be shorted to ground. Remote but maybe connector #22 is somehow shorted to ground. Other than that, it has to be a pinched gray wire,, maybe in bars or switch cover.
Click to expand...



I need to take the battery out later today to get to remove the fuse box to make sure I get better reading. Right now I got a 1.9?

I appreciate your help......I will let you know after I check the Kill/Run switch and connector #22.
 
Freeride77 said:
I need to take the battery out later today to get to remove the fuse box to make sure I get better reading. Right now I got a 1.9?
Click to expand...

1.9 what? 1.9K ohms or 1.9 ohms
If your meter was on the 2K range then somethings not right. Because 1.9K ohms would never blow a fuse.
If the meter is auto-ranging, look at the display to find out what scale your on.
 
Hoople said:
1.9 what? 1.9K ohms or 1.9 ohms
If your meter was on the 2K range then somethings not right. Because 1.9K ohms would never blow a fuse.
If the meter is auto-ranging, look at the display to find out what scale your on.
Click to expand...


I don't know if this makes sense, but when I remove the "lights" 15 amp fuse,
the ignition wire does not overheat. ALL the lighting connections, handlebar switch housing, and harness have been checked with no pinches or grounding.
 
Let me guess... you did not perform step # 1 of entry point # 11 of this thread. That was a step to cross check the entire procedure which would keep us from going in circles.
 
Hoople said:
Let me guess... you did not perform step # 1 of entry point # 11 of this thread. That was a step to cross check the entire procedure which would keep us from going in circles.
Click to expand...



I did Step 1 of one of Entry #11 and the wire still heated up on the ignition
 
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