Here's my Trike build

[zoood]

This isnt an update on the said updates I'll be working on. Since this is about my build. I'd appreciate if our moderators didnt move this posting to another section. Anyways,... a while back I heard that Jim's Lifters had a defect. Something like there was a bad batch that didnt perform well, something of that nature. At the same time. The Ultima engine, which I have a 113 installed in place of the original 1340. The lifters in that engine seemed to act as solids. Though they are hydro lifters. They weren't allowing bleed down when I adjusted the push rods. I had removed them and their lifter blocks as well and replaced them with the Jim's. After removing the Ultima lifters. I was going to take them apart. But I could not press down on them to release the pressure to remove the clip that held them together. So I let them set on a shelf. Just recently I was looking at them again and noticed that now, after a while of their sitting. The oil has drained from them. Allowing me to press them down. Im betting there was dirt or some kind of obstruction in 3 out of 4 lifters making them feel as solids. I will be dissecting them and I plan on using them again. They are actually brand new. They are out of that engine and have maybe 2000 miles on them, probably even less than that. Any input is welcome, as long as we stay on this subject.

zoood/RJ

 

[zoood]

I had finally gotten around to re-installing the Ultima lifters. I had messed with them for almost two days. Finally I have them right. The initial problem I had was that I thought I was having problems getting the engine set just right at TDC. Where as all along,... setting the lifters at zero lag was the problem. I had to set them very loose. No up and down movement at all but seriously loose at spinning them with your fingers in their places. With that done. NOW the tapping of the lifters is at a minimal, an acceptable setting for my taste.

The weather here in NC for two days was in the high 70's and there was no way that I wasnt gonna take advantage of both for riding. However, on the second day while heading home. I noticed that the rear end section of my trike. It seemed as though it was starting to feel a little squirrely. Like the rear bolt on section of the trike was loose. When I had parked it on a level surface in my shop. I noticed that the parallel bottom casting ( two halves mounted together) was tilted to one side. This offset or imbalance was noticeable by about an inch! The coiled shocks, (two to each side) were set at the same adjustments and the anti sway bar was also set equally on each side. All I can figure is and I have mentioned this in the past that the DFT rear I have in my trike build. One of the main control arms had snapped when riding a day in the past. This failure of the DFT I accounted was because of the cheap quality steel China uses to fabricate out-sourced products for the USA. When this steel part snapped ( which is over a 1/4 inch thick!) It caused the premature deterioration of the original swing arm bushings of the motorcycle. When I first decided to build my trike. It never dawned upon me to replace the bushings of the swing arm. My suggestion to anyone that is changing their two wheeler to a three wheeler. To make sure to change out these swing arm bushings. I have to totally dismantle the rear of my trike to get at the swing arm bushing. When I start doing this. If I can figure a way that I dont have totally take it all apart I will dually note this in here. Either way. I will be supplying pictures of what is necessary in doing this fix. Since I have to remove the body. This will allow me access to everything under there allowing me a chance at hopefully building an auxiliary gas tank. My trike has a 5 gallon tank and with a range of 115 miles before worrying if there's a filling station around gets old quick! So hopefully I can build one that will fit inside the partial rear fender that was required for mounting a seat on the trike.

zoood/RJ

 

[zoood]

For those of you that have the older style inner fairing. Like I do on my 1993 Electra Glide. I needed to replace my stock cassette player, AM & FM radio with a new Sony CDX-GT700HD radio. The picture below shows the original radio.

The reason for this post is that the new radio I purchased doesnt come with a cover to protect it from the elements. The types out there can only be snapped on leaving no access to the controls unless you unsnap the cover. What I wanted to try and do was to use the original stock protection cover from the old radio to protect the new one. At least HD made theirs to allow you access to the controls.

When I removed the original radio. I disassembled it, allowing me to remove the face plate along with the protective cover. Looking at the face plate of the stock radio. I removed the plastic face entirely. Making the front an open rectangle. On the original face plate, on each end at the bottom of the rectangle. There's a small plastic catch on each side. These catches allow the swinging protective cover to latch in the down position when closed. Between these two catches. I removed the bottom lip of the rectangle. In the next picture I have labeled different parts of the new assembly, making it easier to explain my process.

A. Is the original cage that came with the stock radio. This cage stays attached to the radios outer enclosure that mounts to the face of the inner fairing.
B. Is the cage that comes with the new radio. Both of the cages purpose, other than mounting. Allow you to slide the radio out or in, they have little catches that lock the radio in place when inserted and they supply special inserts that will unlock the catches for removal of the radio.
C. These are the locations of the factory tabs that apply pressure to the radio housing when the radio is inserted in it's cage. Though I've pointed out 4 places. There's actually 8 all together. I had to take a small screw driver and press on these to allow me to insert the new radio's cage within the stock radio's cage. After I installed the two together. I went back and pressed the tabs back in to hold the new cage in place. I then slid the radio inside. I was stoked that I could get away with doing this.
D. Is the new radio enclosure.

I then mounted the radio in the fairing. I dont know how the newer type radios on HD's mount. But the older style has a rubber outer casing that is actually allowing the radio to be rubber mounted in the fairing. With the radio in place. I took instant adhesive and attached the protective original face plate to rubber radio housing. The face plate enclosure fit perfectly over the new radio and its trim piece. The Sony radio has a large button (B) that protrudes outwards and ironically when I close the protective plastic cover. The button fits right in the access area of (A) as seen below.

The picture below shows the new radio with the old protective cover open.

Now at first glance, it looks like I still have the original radio.

zoood/RJ

 

[zoood]

Well Im back at it again. I have my front end pulled apart. I am changing the 2" over fork tubes back to stock height. The extra 2" height had kept me from mounting the trike just by throwing my leg over the seat. Ive been stepping up on the passengers floor board to mount or dismount. The extra 2" rise fit my ol school look for the trike. Its just that I have fender skirts on and with the tilt of the front end. The fender skirts didnt sit with a level to the ground look. They were always tilted up.

While I have the fairing off. This is a good time to check all my wire connections.

After I finish with the front end. I had purchased a new set of lifter blocks and adjustable push rods and lifters by Velva touch. There has been a tapping noise in my lifters that has been driving me nuts.

zoood

 

[zoood]

I had started taking the Ultima 41mm Chrome Bullet fork tubes apart. This task wasn't as easy as it has been in the past when I rebuilt over fork tubes. I couldn't find any instructions that explained the steps required to break these things down for a rebuild.

The first step is to remove the dust covers. I had found that these have to be unscrewed. The problem is to get a good grip on the Dust Cover's chrome finish. It was suggested to me to use rubber from an inner tube. Wrap it around the Dust Cover a few times for protection. I didn't have any available. So I wrapped the lower fork slider with 2 sided tape and wrapped that in the gauntlet section of an engineer's glove. This worked fine for the first dust cover that I had to remove. The second didn't turn out so successful. I ended up scratching the dust cover.

Instead of ordering another dust cover. I decided to resurface both covers and mask off the inside in preparation to spray paint each with black wrinkle paint.

With a watchful eye and a heat gun. I sped up the drying time, baking the wrinkle finish on to the dust cover. The idea of using the black wrinkle paint was to help hide the scratches and the wrinkle finish I get is exactly like the finish you would see on some engines that have a black wrinkle finish.


After removing the dust covers. With closer examination, I could see the tell tail signs of where moisture had accumulated. I don't know if condensation formed inside the dust cover or if moisture had passed by the "O" ring. Either way, there were rust deposits in there from the corrosion of the metal fork seal retaining ring.

Looking at this rubber fork seal. You can see the rust deposits. I have replaced these seals with new ones. They are inexpensive and with everything apart. Now is the time to do it. I had also replaced the "O" rings located inside the dust covers as well.

Looking at this next picture you can see the traces of rust on the inside of the dust cover.

A is the "O" ring groove
B is the fork seal retaining ring groove.
C is the surface that the fork seal is pressed against.

Notice the rust covering the inside of the dust cover? This is from the metal corroding fork seal retaining ring.

To be continued,...

zoood/RJ

 

[zoood]

After placing the fork seal in it's rightful position. I then
placed the fork seal retaining ring in the groove within the
lower fork. To prevent the metal ring from further corrosion
and possible future failure. I filled that area ( E )with grease.
This will prevent any moister from contacting the retaining
ring. On the threaded section ( F ) I coated that with Anti-seize.
If I, or anyone for that matter has to take the fork tubes apart.
They won't have as hard a time as I did.

In this next picture. During the initial build of the Trike. I had
custom installed the air deflector that mounts under the bottom
triple tree. I had to mount it towards the front and not in the
dedicated mounting holes that were in the back face of the bottom
tree or the deflector would make contact with the custom front
mounted brake lines.
G being the face plate I made that allowed me to mount the air
deflector H.

Most people I would assume didn't really take notice of G.
But I had always wanted to address this, making it more
appealing. A lot of times when I need unique parts. I venture
through automobile junkyards. I happened across a
Buick Electra 225. I had removed the side emblem as pictured below.

I then removed the 225. Since my 93 Trike is an Electra Glide Classic.
It seemed only fitting to mount the name Electra on the trike.
Especially since there is no mention of my trike being an Electra on the
front end. I really wont know if I like how it will look until I put the
fairing and all back on. This is the one thing I like most about custom
work. If I dont like it or if it needs something more. I can always
change it for the better.

to be continued,...

zoood/RJ

 

[zoood]

While I'm at it. I thought i would post this in here. Since this product is on my Trike and I do manufacturer them. I'm having a sale on our heat deflectors and Not for a Day or a week. But for the Entire month!

US VETERANS DAY Month Long SALE

Starting November 4th thru the 30th.
All Heat Deflector Styles for all Models are reduced by 20%.
Plus FREE Shipping for all USA address Orders.
All USA Orders must call 910-592-1585

International Orders
are reduced by 20% for this sale, however shipping charges still apply. You can calculate your shipping costs and place your order at our
E-Bay Store


​

 

[zoood]

Our US VETERANS DAY
Month Long SALE is still on!

Starting November 4th thru the 30th.
All Heat Deflector Styles for all Models are reduced by 20%.
Plus FREE Shipping for all USA address Orders.
All USA Orders must call 910-592-1585
You can also visit our Website here -
No More Fried Thighs!!!

International Orders
are also reduced by 20% for this sale, however
shipping charges still apply.
You can calculate your shipping costs and place your order at our
E-Bay Store ​

 

[zoood]

Update:
The tapping noise that seemed to disappear is back. I had removed the Ultima lifters, their blocks and the adjustable push rods. I went and purchased the Velva lifter kit and reinstalled everything. To my surprise. That tap from before didnt disappear. It actually got louder. When I was idling outside my shop after a ride. When I increased the RPMs to ride onto my lift I noticed that the tapping noise quieted down dramatically. This lead me to check the upper oil screen. When I was looking at the screen, it looked fine. But just in case. I blew compressed air through the screen from the crimped end. Low and behold. About a 1/2 inch of packed oil drenched lint flew out! When I think back about all Ive done to this engine. The only thing other than imagining whoever built this motor must have used a something other than a lint free cloth to wipe the internal components down. But I never seen lint any wheres else. Then it dawned on me. The only thing that I can think of that I added to this engine that was from a foreign manufacturer (CHINA) was the Ultra Cool oil cooler. It never dawned on me to blow the cooler out since it was new. A lot of Chinese products are produced for the US that arent inspected. They just build and ship! That oil cooler was on for about a year till it started falling apart and leaking oil. I removed that and installed the Jagg 10 row. Just in case. Anyone that has the Ultra Cool oil cooler installed. I highly recommend checking your upper end oil screen! With the screen cleaned. The tap was minimal again and disappeared when the engine warmed up. It only sounded off when I was idling or when the engine was still cold. But none the less. The tap was still there. The same tap that was there since I had installed the engine in my trike. Im talking for the last 15000 miles and then finally something else took place and the following pictures will show you that the tapping, all along was not the lifters. But the rear exhaust rocker was making contact with the upper rocker cover. I would never expect this was happening. Not on a brand new engine and mind you I never beat my engines. The cam Im running in here now. The lift is no wheres as high as what comes stock with a 113 which is .600 and .640 What I have now is .590 and I forget off hand. But no way the lift the ultima came with. The casting of the Rocker Center Block was defective from the git go. The only thing good about this design is that its mounted to the head. Would have been very expensive if it was the head.

I had finally gotten around to re-installing the Ultima lifters. I had messed with them for almost two days. Finally I have them right. The initial problem I had was that I thought I was having problems getting the engine set just right at TDC. Where as all along,... setting the lifters at zero lag was the problem. I had to set them very loose. No up and down movement at all but seriously loose at spinning them with your fingers in their places. With that done. NOW the tapping of the lifters is at a minimal, an acceptable setting for my taste.

The weather here in NC for two days was in the high 70's and there was no way that I wasnt gonna take advantage of both for riding. However, on the second day while heading home. I noticed that the rear end section of my trike. It seemed as though it was starting to feel a little squirrely. Like the rear bolt on section of the trike was loose. When I had parked it on a level surface in my shop. I noticed that the parallel bottom casting ( two halves mounted together) was tilted to one side. This offset or imbalance was noticeable by about an inch! The coiled shocks, (two to each side) were set at the same adjustments and the anti sway bar was also set equally on each side. All I can figure is and I have mentioned this in the past that the DFT rear I have in my trike build. One of the main control arms had snapped when riding a day in the past. This failure of the DFT I accounted was because of the cheap quality steel China uses to fabricate out-sourced products for the USA. When this steel part snapped ( which is over a 1/4 inch thick!) It caused the premature deterioration of the original swing arm bushings of the motorcycle. When I first decided to build my trike. It never dawned upon me to replace the bushings of the swing arm. My suggestion to anyone that is changing their two wheeler to a three wheeler. To make sure to change out these swing arm bushings. I have to totally dismantle the rear of my trike to get at the swing arm bushing. When I start doing this. If I can figure a way that I dont have totally take it all apart I will dually note this in here. Either way. I will be supplying pictures of what is necessary in doing this fix. Since I have to remove the body. This will allow me access to everything under there allowing me a chance at hopefully building an auxiliary gas tank. My trike has a 5 gallon tank and with a range of 115 miles before worrying if there's a filling station around gets old quick! So hopefully I can build one that will fit inside the partial rear fender that was required for mounting a seat on the trike.

zoood/RJ

 

[Jack Klarich]

Very good write up and pictures, guess some one boobooed when checking that clearance in the rocker box. Good thing about the Evo is the OH tappet screen. The TC is all internal. When my bike lunched it destroyed the cases and ALL internal parts, wish I still had an Evo