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FXR Starter question

Thanks Glider,
I was planning on pulling them at lunch, it started last night and I noticed it was blowing some black smoke, it has always run pretty rich. It has a shorty S&S carb on it that I have no experience tuning and have heard can be a bear to do if you don't know what your doing. I don't mind it running somewhat rich due to that it gets pretty cold at night up here in Vermont and the bike runs really great when the cold air leans it out, but I'm pretty sure its running way too rich.
 
Hey Glider,
I just took kit out for a est ride, after cleaning the plugs and draining last years gas, it started right up but when I drove it out it began missin hard and reduced power, drove it right to the harley shop and they listened to it and said my jims adjustable pushrods were loose and to let it sit overnight and adjust the pushrods, however, they said I could find a link for adjusting jims pushrods online but I can't find it anywhere, do you have a link to how to do this in a way that I might understand. When I got it back to my shop the plugs were fouled again.
 
Back to the problem with the battery going dead. I have a '91, so we may not be talking about apples, but does your bike have a solid state (rectifier bridge) voltage regulator? If so, check out Glider's info in the self-help section on checking the charging system. Especially the bleed back test. I have had to replace the VR and stator on my bikes a number of time. Definite weak link in the bike systems.

Testing The Charging System - Harley Davidson Community

TQ
 
Hey Glider,
Thanks for the links, I'm doing this job right now(no guts no glory) and I have one question, do I have to let each pushrod bleed out before moving on to the next, even if it is on the same side, or do I jus wait for the 1st 2 to bleed then move on?
 
Always give each push rod at least 15 or more minutes to bleed down after adjusting them and make sure you can rotate then freely with your fingers before rotating the engine to the next position or the valve can contact the piston and cause damage.
 
Roger that, so if I already adjusted 2 on the same side w/o letting the first bled down (but not moving or rotating engine), should I start all over, they all spin freely, also I looked at the pdf you sent me and it said it was for shovels, my is an evo and I couldn't find an instuction set strictly for evos on Jims site, my concern is whether the 1 and 1/2 turns adjustment is correct, what do you think?
 
You have to adjust the push rod with the lifter on the base of the cam lobe otherwise the adjustment will be off.
Different push rods have different threads per inch, it's not one spec for all of them. It's specific for the ones you are using.

PushrodsF.jpg



Pushrodadjustment1.jpg
 
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